221LikesTeam CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!
03-02-2021, 05:42 PM - Wikipost
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07-05-2014, 05:38 AM
#1456
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Just to update the nomenclature, here, you are right that there are two chassis plates to make this car. The first one offered by CRC was the same wheel base as the original XTi but had the mounts permanently installed so you didn't have to use the pieces off the transverse battery mount conversion kit. It was not named Altered Ego. The Altered Ego conversion came out a little later and it had the same configuration chassis plate, but that plate was shorter and long version pod plates were included. It was called Altered Ego and a complete car kit was soon offered.
I offered this explanation because some of us get confused when people are talking about the different configurations of this car. Carry on.
07-05-2014, 05:49 AM
#1457
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Only problem with that though is it is very difficult to run the battery in-line with the shorter Altered ego chassis.
Here's the original winged chassis, direct bolt on. (Thought this was called Altered Ego as well...guess not): http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719466
Here's the shorter altered ego chassis: http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719462
We tried building my friend's Altered Ego as an in-line like my Xti...even with the pretty small Orca ESC it wouldn't fit.
Here's the original winged chassis, direct bolt on. (Thought this was called Altered Ego as well...guess not): http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719466
Here's the shorter altered ego chassis: http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719462
We tried building my friend's Altered Ego as an in-line like my Xti...even with the pretty small Orca ESC it wouldn't fit.
This all started with an idea from Slapmaster that you will find several pages back. He explained that the center pivot mount had to be cut to add space for the speed control to be mounted along with the battery inline on the chassis. I followed his description and found that the small Hobbywing speedo was still too large, but the LRP SXX Stock Spec V2 would fit and that is what I am using now. I could have cut more off the center pivot mount, but I was afraid at the time to take too much since I didn't have any spares that day. Now I am too lazy to take it apart and make that mod in effort to install the Hobbywing. I also added some battery stops just by the servo to prevent the battery from moving forward in an accident, thus breaking the servo. I have tested my design and it has stood up very well. Now I can remove the battery after every run without using tape.
07-05-2014, 05:56 AM
#1458
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Spot on Mr. BadSign. The shorter links will not allow the rear pod to rotate side to side as far as the longer links. That does introduce a progressive feel for side to side pod rotation that would make a totally different driving feel. The 180 corners require more pod travel than most other corners so I feel this is why the car turns better 180's with the longer links.
07-05-2014, 06:28 AM
#1459
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
the altered ego chassis plate is the one with the integrated wide link mounts. Interestingly, the altered ego chassi plate is about 1/4" shorter than the standard super skinny XTI chassis plate. So, if one uses the altered ego chassis plate in combo with a standard XTI rear pod, the overall wheelbase will be about 1/4" shorter than a standard narrow XTI car. Taking 1/4" out of the car's wheelbase could explain why the car would be better in 180's, perhaps moreso than just taking the angle out of the side links. If you want to maintain the XTI's long wheelbase but use the integrated wings chassis, then there are different graphite pod plates for the altered ego that add back the 1/4".....but add what was lost from the main chassis plate by putting that much extra length into the pod. Personally, I like the car best with the altered ego's short main chassis in combo with the XTI's short pod. That combo yields a wheelbase about the same as some of the older CRC cars that were produced before it became the fashion to extend the wheelbase of 1/12th scale cars. Perhaps I'm old skool,........but I prefer the feel of the shorter wheelbase setup.
Hi Vafactor. Good to hear from you. You are running what is called the short/short configuration. I like it too for 17.5 racing. I explained above the change in feel of the car once I changed the length of the links and put them parallel to the inline of the chassis. After running this car both ways, I think you will like the longer links even more than you like it now. I am running on tracks that are not high traction such as you would see at a "Big Race". It is possible that the Big Race atmosphere with extremely high bite would not require so much rear pod side to side rotation to have adequate traction. I am now running side tube lubs that are more to what I used in the past, making me think that the sweet spot on my car has been expanded.
Haven't tried this yet, but I am hearing that the Altered Ego rear pod plates would lengthen the wheel base nicely for 13.5 racing. It moves the motor a little further away from the center pivot, thus increasing overall car stability and rear bite a bit. Remember that the Altered Ego was developed for the Europeans to run modified without using traction compound. I dont know if you remember when I ran the Rug Rat for IRS. It had a longer rear pod than the other T-Bar cars and I just couldn't get it to rotate to my satisfaction. Mike Dunnigan did well with it a couple times, but it was slow for me. So I put the AE 12L4 rear pod plate on the car and it took off. Very good rotation on corners more than 90 degrees and I was in the hunt. The motor was closer to the pivot and the axle location made for a little stiffer ride that I couldn't get with the longer pod and changes to springs and damping. I think the same principles apply here. Therefore, rear bite and stability are important to the Europeans, and that appears to be good for 13.5 racing here. Then the mod guys could use the long XTi chassis plate with either rear pod to have a great mod car here in the States.
07-05-2014, 12:07 PM
#1460
This all started with an idea from Slapmaster that you will find several pages back. He explained that the center pivot mount had to be cut to add space for the speed control to be mounted along with the battery inline on the chassis. I followed his description and found that the small Hobbywing speedo was still too large, but the LRP SXX Stock Spec V2 would fit and that is what I am using now. I could have cut more off the center pivot mount, but I was afraid at the time to take too much since I didn't have any spares that day. Now I am too lazy to take it apart and make that mod in effort to install the Hobbywing. I also added some battery stops just by the servo to prevent the battery from moving forward in an accident, thus breaking the servo. I have tested my design and it has stood up very well. Now I can remove the battery after every run without using tape.
07-17-2014, 12:11 PM
#1464
I rarely need to replace mine...when they start getting loose I use cotton in the ball cup to take up the slack.
08-07-2014, 10:10 PM
#1465
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
Question for you guys...I'm building my first CRC (the new altered ego XTI kit) and I'm confused on the diff build. The diff rings have a X/cross shaped pattern but the flange on the axle seems to be a D shape. I cannot figure out how to get these diff rings securely on the axle flange. Can anyone explain how this works? It looks like it should be a D shaped diff ring, but it is a X shape with 4 notches. Thanks!
08-07-2014, 10:38 PM
#1466
Question for you guys...I'm building my first CRC (the new altered ego XTI kit) and I'm confused on the diff build. The diff rings have a X/cross shaped pattern but the flange on the axle seems to be a D shape. I cannot figure out how to get these diff rings securely on the axle flange. Can anyone explain how this works? It looks like it should be a D shaped diff ring, but it is a X shape with 4 notches. Thanks!
Align notches in the two spokes of diff rings with the edges of the D-shape hub
08-08-2014, 10:48 AM
#1469
I found that running the Encore shock on my WGT and F1 that the stock threads on the shaft do not hold well on the plastic ball end. So for those cars I switched to using the aluminum thread adapter and run the shock 1 hole longer on the shock mount. I have not had this problem on my 1/12th.
08-08-2014, 11:23 AM
#1470
I solved the problem of the shock shaft stripping out of the ball cup with a much more brute-force method. After it stripped out, I ran some thin CA glue down the threads, threaded it back on, glued it a little more around the top of the ball cup, and it hasn't happened since.
That being said, the thread extender is a great tool to have for setting rear pod droop because you can just thread/unthread the ball cup from the 4-40 threads of the extender, something you probably shouldn't do with the extremely fine threads of the stock piece.
That being said, the thread extender is a great tool to have for setting rear pod droop because you can just thread/unthread the ball cup from the 4-40 threads of the extender, something you probably shouldn't do with the extremely fine threads of the stock piece.