theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Got home from work tonight and TADA it finallt arrived!....is there any tips or tricks i should know other then what the manual states before i start this build...thanks

MC112b

iTrader: (64)

Take your time with the front end. It takes some extra attention to get it loose and absolutely free without being wiggly jiggly. Especially the upper arms and shims. I had to sand the top graphite piece of the pod to get it to line up with the screws just right. Other then that it's a pretty decent build. Not many parts involved.

FaanP

What MC112b said .... I had to take my front en apart and redo it. I took all the pins in the front end and polished them up with 1200 grid sand paper and metal polish to make sure the front end is 100% loose ....

FaanP

Sanding the diff rings? Really?

linkless

iTrader: (38)

The head of the screw doesn't have to go into the hole. I just screwed it down as you show in the picture and it works fine.

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

If your fed up yet I will trade you for an xray X12....

So you can run mod

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

My hammer doesn't work very well it has a working servo saver attached to it......

Offer is on the table if your getting sick of the XTI.

Hell I'll even throw in a servo saver and 2 servo's...1 of which being yours already

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

Barry if you don't have your answer tomorrow I will hit up someone who runs the XTI and ask them which servo saver they run.

InspGadgt

I rarely see anything other than Kimbro servo savers on any 1/12th scale. But you need to make sure you get the right one. The white one is for Futaba servos while the grey or off-white one is for servos with the Airtronics spline. As for the screw if you use a cap head screw instead of a button head it will fit down inside the servo saver. However I've had issues with the screw head pulling through the soft plastic of the servo saver so I don't go this route. Usually I use a longer screw with a washer to make sure it holds well. Those concave washers for counter sunk screws work really well and look pretty cool.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Barry, give me a call anytime. I can walk you through whatever troubles you're facing in one call.

two 14 two 45 6651

AWD

hairy

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure this has been answered somewhere in this thread but is the rear pod available separatly and if so what is the part number for it?

COLD AS ICE

iTrader: (19)

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719438

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719441

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719437

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719440

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719443

these pieces are individual but all five together will give you the complete rear slider pod. What car are you planning to put it on? the mounting holes on the bottom are closer together then on an XL or and Xi pod so it will not work with either of those bottom plates and the new bottom plate will not work with the old main chassis because of the link mounting locations. Hope this helps!

-Randy

avs

iTrader: (2)

the majority of kits do not provide a servo saver, i think because many use kimbrough's 'small' version which are brand specific (113, 114, 131, jr/airtronics/ko, futaba, hitec).

others prefer the medium version (201), the 201 is universal with different inserts, but it is a little oversized for 1/12 and will require a little grinding to fit.

you will rarely find anything but kimbrough, but i know one person that prefers the Serpent servo saver, it fits reasonably well and has inserts. i believe it is designed to be retained by a metric flat head screw.

if you have a JR, KO or airtronics servo then you should be good with the 113, just use a socket head instead of a button head screw.

InspGadgt

This is how I do mine...the trick is finding a screw long enough to still thread into the servo spline.

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

I don't bother sanding rings. I get the basic D ring, motor spray them off, install. Look closely at them, they are stamped out. Install them so they look like this: () not like this: )( I feel that the CRC 3/32" ball spur gear has the inner embossment molded too thick. It gets sandwiched between the diff hubs and makes the diff feel stiff without being tight. Shave one side down, preferably not the side that says CRC on it. Put the CRC stamp towards the motor side of the diff. Use #3363 (or was that #6636?) diff grease sparingly, don't flood the diff with it. Assemble the rest of the way per the instructions. If you want to get fancy, put in a Slapmaster Thrust Kit (plug,plug,plug). It should build up great and last a long time.

Some of those servo screws are 2.5mm. They are like gold. Don't loose them.

Brian