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Old 03-12-2014, 05:24 AM   #1366
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Question Wiita
What does running the Xti rear pod and top plate to a Altered Ego main chassis do?
Kave is right. I tried all the combos. Just felt better with the short short. Kave runs the long/short and is just as fast. Tony block runs the short/long and is just as fast. I just think it's a personal like not a speed thing. The basic altered ego kit would be a great place to start. I have driven Tonys short long car and it's very good!!
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:47 AM   #1367
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So many chassis to choose from!

Right now I have a transverse car with the solid chassis #32580 (stock xti geometry) and xti pod. So that's long/short, correct?

So, the solid alter ego chassis from the car kit, chassis #3223 is 8mm shorter and if I put it on I would have a short/short car, yes?

Any reason I can't simply re-drill the chassis to move the front end plate back a few mm to get a short/short car with the long solid chassis? That would make swapping from long/short to short/short fairly simple. In fact, it would make swapping from long to short chassis and inline or transverse fairly simply all with the same chassis plate on the car.
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:20 AM   #1368
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I bought a fairly new Xti from a local racer a couple weeks ago and I rebuilt it to my liking and I love you t even though I have had some CRC drivers tell me that I would hate the car exspically on a low bite track for which my home track is a low bite track and it ran very well. I was told to get the Altered Ego chassis plate but I don't see anything wrong with the stock in line chassis plate.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:13 PM   #1369
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but I still don't get it... LOL!
You just couldn't resist, could you?
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:37 PM   #1370
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I was banging my head before I read your post and I was like, surely this makes it clear!
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:03 PM   #1371
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I was banging my head before I read your post and I was like, surely this makes it clear!
Actually there are two errors in my post. First, the antenna mount is plastic and they also include the battery positioners that hold the battery in rear or forward position in transverse configuration. But why be picky anyway?

So at the end, if you have the Xti kit and add the conversion I mentioned, you have all the parts to make all the configurations of inline/transverse, short/long, short/short, long/long and long/short.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:13 AM   #1372
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I was told to run the protoform tr12 body on my inline chassis because it's was the best for this set up but I seen the Crc Mohawk body and I am going to try it out Fri. But why wouldn't tbe Mohawk be as good as the TR12.
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Old 03-15-2014, 09:57 AM   #1373
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.................................................. ....

Sometimes the inline car can be aggressive on turn entry and the best way I found to calm that down is to use the camber riser plates.

....
Once again that is spot on, Brian. Extra people showed for last nights race and the group built a little more, but not "fly paper" tacky. Had trouble with the car oversteering on some high speed entries. Put in the 2.5 riser and took out the 2.0 riser and the car was money. Beat some pretty good drivers this time.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:24 AM   #1374
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How do you bias a 13.5 car for more performance at the top of a run? I've consistently been much more competitive at the end of a run than the beginning. I'm seeing only about 2 tenths difference from the top of a run to the bottom.

I'm running D 3.5, HT rotor, 3.3" rollouts. Motor temps around 130-140 F. Pulling out around 3000 mah.

In club racing, this strategy works, but at big races where there is a deeper field I don't want to give up positions in the beginning that I can't get back later. Hard to pass guys that make no mistakes!

I am assuming a more aggressive setup may be part of the solution?

If so, what adjustments make the car just a touch more aggressive at the top of a run while not making the car too inconsistent?

Maybe more dope on front tires for less time??

Or should I be looking at more camber and less traction compound?
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:28 AM   #1375
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Another thought, if I'm mainly looking for more high speed aggression when the car is faster at the top of a pack, maybe a body with more front downforce would help?

I'm running the Bomb R at the moment.

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How do you bias a 13.5 car for more performance at the top of a run? I've consistently been much more competitive at the end of a run than the beginning. I'm seeing only about 2 tenths difference from the top of a run to the bottom.

I'm running D 3.5, HT rotor, 3.3" rollouts. Motor temps around 130-140 F. Pulling out around 3000 mah.

In club racing, this strategy works, but at big races where there is a deeper field I don't want to give up positions in the beginning that I can't get back later. Hard to pass guys that make no mistakes!

I am assuming a more aggressive setup may be part of the solution?

If so, what adjustments make the car just a touch more aggressive at the top of a run while not making the car too inconsistent?

Maybe more dope on front tires for less time??

Or should I be looking at more camber and less traction compound?
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:12 AM   #1376
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Originally Posted by jasons56 View Post
Another thought, if I'm mainly looking for more high speed aggression when the car is faster at the top of a pack, maybe a body with more front downforce would help?

I'm running the Bomb R at the moment.
You can also move the body forward on the chassis to move the center of pressure. That doesn't generate more total downforce, but does move the grip forward.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:12 AM   #1377
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Default diffuser

With the XTI and the introduction of the slider pod came the option for the bolt on CRC diffuser. So while the merits of this part seem debatable, what is the deal with cost of this plastic part? Seems to be available only on Team CRC website for $45, nearly a full quarter of the cost of the full car. This plastic part is more expensive than the carbon chassis!? Twice as much as a carbon axle!? how can this be?
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:14 AM   #1378
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It's machined not molded...hence the extra cost.
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:30 PM   #1379
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Default Ball Link end piece

Where do you guys get these open ended ball link ends that I see in all of the pictures of this chassis. They are used on the damper tubes. Are they being used on the inboard side of the tubes along with the outside part of the tube? The XTI kit comes with standard ball cups and I think that the open ended ones will make it easier to do maintenance on the tubes. Any help on this would be well appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:37 PM   #1380
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I think walmart superstore now has crc parts part# 32694
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