avs

iTrader: (2)

maybe its the camera lens, but it looks like the upper pivot ball stud is angled back. maybe you could try to measure the caster. it does seem like you may have excessive caster due to the pivot ball stud threading into upper arm at an angle.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Yeah i've usually been running Lilacs but running the PinkX2 tomorrow to try.

I'd been getting basically one raceday out of tires (practice pack or two, 3 x 8 mins quals and main). Yes been rotating.

Good to know, maybe I have way too much steering travel. Will test that tomorrow

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

I have a set of stock plastic ones, will compare.

Thanks will check that too..

kiwidave72

hi guys,

im new to this 1/12th class, and the club has put down a new tarmac surface, and can now take out my xti (with the alter ego chassis) for a play.

ive heard that pan cars are very different to setup than touring cars.

so could someone point me to a really good start point setup sheet for tarmac, and some good advice on what to change in the front / rear.

ill be racing with a 10.5 with boost/turbo for now.

cheers
David.

InspGadgt

Slapmaster makes a handy little tool for checking caster

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Thanks everyone for there help and advise. I took the Alum Casterblocks off and they did seem a little warped. Put a set of stock ones in and it looked much better.

Going to look into those Slapmaster tools

corally

Hello

i have two small trouble with my Xti...

1) use a SRG-HR servo, but when exit from curve to go on straight line i always put a small correction for realign the car..i use 5 caster block and 0.5 camber ...yestardy i chenge with 0 degree and seem was solved..

2) when open gas on straight the car push on one side..i try to twek the car
but not is sufficient.

Some suggestion?

Thanks !

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Sounds like your Car is not balanced left to right. Get some balance buttons and remove the rear pod then balance your car. will make things much easier.

Next check your front springs for the same height one might have collapsed and is now shorter.

check for binding in the rear pod.

corally

When check tweak is better to leave the dumper tube?

THANKS!

avink007

Balance buttons http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_...roducts_id=202 or http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...hp?prod_id=173

It is better to take off the tubes when you check tweak on the car.

corally

Thks

i have old style Hudy balance button...i should remove the rear pod ?

avink007

Yes remove the rear pod then balance the main chassis. You can also balance the pod on its own.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Above answers are correct.

Spend the time getting your car balanced and not trying to get it tweaked later. If you are spot on you can run the side springs with little to no preload. which will make for a more even handling car

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

What would you guys recommend to stop the rear end being lose?
I was running transverse but have gone back inline and its lose at the end of our large sweeper just before
getting back on power.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Your results may vary, but one factor I've seen affect the transition between high-speed (on-power sweepers, end of straight, things like that) and low-speed cornering is the front end alignment. Sight unseen, you might want to try a different reactive caster block, static caster, toe, or camber. If your tires wear flat, you may be pretty close, but a little may go a long way. If you don't want to change the front alignment, changing to a different front kingpin tube lube may have some effect.

Hard to say, really.