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Old 12-07-2013, 11:45 AM   #1261
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Edit: Again, this may be the angle of the pic or just my eyesight failing me... but it also looks like the inside of your front upper arms are angled to the outside pretty substantially?
maybe its the camera lens, but it looks like the upper pivot ball stud is angled back. maybe you could try to measure the caster. it does seem like you may have excessive caster due to the pivot ball stud threading into upper arm at an angle.
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:05 PM   #1262
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
How much wheel lock are you using to get around the track ?

That much wear on Pink X2, would suggest you have a bit of understeer

How many runs till the tire looks like that
Are you rotating tires every 8m run ?

3 to 4' turning circles is a baseline
Yeah i've usually been running Lilacs but running the PinkX2 tomorrow to try.

I'd been getting basically one raceday out of tires (practice pack or two, 3 x 8 mins quals and main). Yes been rotating.

Good to know, maybe I have way too much steering travel. Will test that tomorrow
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:08 PM   #1263
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Those aluminum caster blocks do have a tendency to bend...from that picture angle they do look like they may have bent. I would double check those...plus what everyone else suggested.
I have a set of stock plastic ones, will compare.

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maybe its the camera lens, but it looks like the upper pivot ball stud is angled back. maybe you could try to measure the caster. it does seem like you may have excessive caster due to the pivot ball stud threading into upper arm at an angle.
Thanks will check that too..
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:58 PM   #1264
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Default tarmac setup

hi guys,

im new to this 1/12th class, and the club has put down a new tarmac surface, and can now take out my xti (with the alter ego chassis) for a play.

ive heard that pan cars are very different to setup than touring cars.

so could someone point me to a really good start point setup sheet for tarmac, and some good advice on what to change in the front / rear.

ill be racing with a 10.5 with boost/turbo for now.

cheers
David.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:27 PM   #1265
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maybe its the camera lens, but it looks like the upper pivot ball stud is angled back. maybe you could try to measure the caster. it does seem like you may have excessive caster due to the pivot ball stud threading into upper arm at an angle.
Slapmaster makes a handy little tool for checking caster
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:29 AM   #1266
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Slapmaster makes a handy little tool for checking caster
Thanks everyone for there help and advise. I took the Alum Casterblocks off and they did seem a little warped. Put a set of stock ones in and it looked much better.

Going to look into those Slapmaster tools
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:39 AM   #1267
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Hello

i have two small trouble with my Xti...

1) use a SRG-HR servo, but when exit from curve to go on straight line i always put a small correction for realign the car..i use 5 caster block and 0.5 camber ...yestardy i chenge with 0 degree and seem was solved..

2) when open gas on straight the car push on one side..i try to twek the car
but not is sufficient.

Some suggestion?

Thanks !
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:40 AM   #1268
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Sounds like your Car is not balanced left to right. Get some balance buttons and remove the rear pod then balance your car. will make things much easier.

Next check your front springs for the same height one might have collapsed and is now shorter.

check for binding in the rear pod.
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:55 AM   #1269
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Sounds like your Car is not balanced left to right. Get some balance buttons and remove the rear pod then balance your car. will make things much easier.
Why remove rear pod?..sorry what is "balance button"..? ths small poit to fit in center hole in the chassis?
Next check your front springs for the same height one might have collapsed and is now shorter.
I not think about this...i check
check for binding in the rear pod.
When check tweak is better to leave the dumper tube?

THANKS!
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:31 AM   #1270
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When check tweak is better to leave the dumper tube?

THANKS!
Balance buttons http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_...roducts_id=202 or http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...hp?prod_id=173

It is better to take off the tubes when you check tweak on the car.
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:41 AM   #1271
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Thks

i have old style Hudy balance button...i should remove the rear pod ?
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:11 AM   #1272
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Thks

i have old style Hudy balance button...i should remove the rear pod ?
Yes remove the rear pod then balance the main chassis. You can also balance the pod on its own.
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:55 AM   #1273
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Above answers are correct.

Spend the time getting your car balanced and not trying to get it tweaked later. If you are spot on you can run the side springs with little to no preload. which will make for a more even handling car
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Old 12-16-2013, 12:06 PM   #1274
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What would you guys recommend to stop the rear end being lose?
I was running transverse but have gone back inline and its lose at the end of our large sweeper just before
getting back on power.
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:03 PM   #1275
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What would you guys recommend to stop the rear end being lose?
I was running transverse but have gone back inline and its lose at the end of our large sweeper just before
getting back on power.
Your results may vary, but one factor I've seen affect the transition between high-speed (on-power sweepers, end of straight, things like that) and low-speed cornering is the front end alignment. Sight unseen, you might want to try a different reactive caster block, static caster, toe, or camber. If your tires wear flat, you may be pretty close, but a little may go a long way. If you don't want to change the front alignment, changing to a different front kingpin tube lube may have some effect.

Hard to say, really.
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