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Old 11-20-2013, 04:50 PM   #1231
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I've got it stuck in my head that stock cars need to be shorter. I am sure there are plenty that could prove that wrong. I have not tried it with anything but 17.5 as I built it just for the Timezone race. I got beat by Blake Bell by a few seconds driving an inline Xti (stock) this past weekend against my cross pack crc car. Now I am not going to claim we were chasing down Hebert and Haines, but we were not driving clown cars either. In the past, the CRC rule of thumb for inline vs trans-pack has been: inline is good for faster - sweepier layouts while cross-pack is better in tight twisty little tracks. Now that a year has passed since the release of the Xti, I revisited the inline set up. I will admit that I gave up pretty quickly last year. With some more understanding of what that car likes, there's no question, it will get the job done.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:03 PM   #1232
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I had a little fun with 17.5 powered inline Xti this weekend at the Timezone GP. I put it P2 on the grid and was fortunate enough to grab the W. Randy was exceptional with his kit Xti at IIC, so I was easily inspired for this project. I wanted to make sure that I was using the latest springs (except fronts). This was a straight forward build with nothing funky done. The idea was to get a little more weight forward to reduce front tire slip in effort to see if I can reduce post run fade.... more so at club tracks then big events. I reversed the esc and battery location which makes the wires much shorter and efficient. I did have to use a piece of double back tape under the battery plate to keep it from sliding into the servo. On my car, I did have to sand the football a little to snuggle the esc a little closer. I wanted the shorter wheel base, so I chose the Altered Ego chassis which builds up at 197. I did use the Xti rear plate. I want to say the stock Xti chassis builds at 203. This car drove really well! I built it a week ago. I haven't raced stock since last spring but to my surprise I nailed the set up. Didn't lay a wrench to it all weekend! Now that's lazy racing.

Here's how I put it together:
Front:
.50 front springs (old black)
Kingpin .402" with 50k that I heavily neglected
5* caster block with 2.0 riser
1* camber
1f/2b caster
3.25mm r/h

Middle:
Red center spring (new)
25wt shock oil
Tall ball stud on the upper plate
20k tubes
.50 sides springs, touching
3.5mm r/h

Rear:
-1.5 droop
3.5mm r/h
17.5 KS @ 57* time, 57/72

Tires:
CRC Black fronts; 40.8, CA full sidewall, full dope w/ SXT
CRC Yellow rears; 41.5, no glue, full dope w/ SXT

Body:
Black Art R8C

Brian
Our track is medium to high grip. 60x 90 I think, I'm at a 96.5 roll out.
I'm also running the alter ego chassis with the xti pod plate.
Set up identical except battery across the rear and 30 in the center shock.

My car is extremely easy to drive but I'm looking for more steering coming off the straight.

It is the straight into a sweeper finished with a 180.
The car really pushes in the 180.

I was recommended to try drag brake.

Thoughts?

Thanks
Dayton
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:09 PM   #1233
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Default New to 1/12 scale foam tires

I recently purchased a used Xti and it came with a large selection of tires. I'm fairly new to foam tire, so can some please post the colors in order from hard to soft? I'm also going to be running on asphalt so what would be the softest tire I should be using?
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:43 PM   #1234
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
I recently purchased a used Xti and it came with a large selection of tires. I'm fairly new to foam tire, so can some please post the colors in order from hard to soft? I'm also going to be running on asphalt so what would be the softest tire I should be using?
If they are CRC tires they go in order from softest to hardest:
White
Yellow
Gray-low
Pink
Magenta
Gray
Chrome
Purple
Black

Only catch is the rubber content in the tire, for example black and purple are really close to the same hardness but purple tends to get sticky toward the end of the run and will have more traction than black. Pink and yellow are like that too, about the same durometer rating but yellow has less traction than pink.

For 17.5 yellow rear / black front or graylow rear / chrome front are good starting points.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:45 AM   #1235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1 View Post
Our track is medium to high grip. 60x 90 I think, I'm at a 96.5 roll out.
I'm also running the alter ego chassis with the xti pod plate.
Set up identical except battery across the rear and 30 in the center shock.

My car is extremely easy to drive but I'm looking for more steering coming off the straight.

It is the straight into a sweeper finished with a 180.
The car really pushes in the 180.

I was recommended to try drag brake.

Thoughts?

Thanks
Dayton
Dayton, if your car is "extremely easy" to drive, "danger" it up some. Go with either more camber, caster, or toe out. Or more front sauce if you're not using full on the front. Kind of the rule of thumb, use as much camber as the car will take till it flips and then back off some. Watch for excessive camber that can lead to excessive fade.... they go hand in hand. And yes, use drag brake to help set the nose in a 180 style corner. But remember that stock is a "flick off" driving style. If you do not completely let out of the trigger, you will not get into drag brake. I set mine about 20% and try to get the rest out of the chassis. You can also look at kingpin length... it's often over looked. If you get the front too tight, you take the steering away. Too loose, you get more steering but the chassis will roll around more. If you have a good stock motor, I would think you could pull another tooth. And lastly, if you are running the 2.0 riser plates under the caster block, you could probably take them out to get more steering. Put them back if the car flat spins in places.

Just caught one more thing, you said you are cross pack. The side springs I am running are lighter for inline. You need .60's, 30k in the tubes.
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:18 AM   #1236
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Thanks Brian,
For me it feels really "safe".
Others have driven it and said it turned to much, lol.

I'll try the .60's and 30k first then add drag brake if I need more.
Also I'm only doping just over half the front.

Power is no issue, I'll try another tooth.

Datyon
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:31 AM   #1237
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Thanks Brian,
For me it feels really "safe".
Others have driven it and said it turned to much, lol.

I'll try the .60's and 30k first then add drag brake if I need more.
Also I'm only doping just over half the front.

Power is no issue, I'll try another tooth.

Datyon

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Old 11-22-2013, 07:33 AM   #1238
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I'll be there tonight, I can help you if you want. Your competition may not be pleased if I make it faster.
Good!
That means I have somebody to chase.

I was on a quick 65 at one point last week until the barriers started jumping out at me.
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:46 AM   #1239
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Good!
That means I have somebody to chase.

I was on a quick 65 at one point last week until the barriers started jumping out at me.
Hey Dayton! You guys racing in Mishawaka?
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:03 AM   #1240
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Hey Dayton! You guys racing in Mishawaka?
Yes we are!
Doors open at 5, racing at 7. Are you going to join us?
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:14 AM   #1241
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Originally Posted by avink007 View Post
If they are CRC tires they go in order from softest to hardest:
White
Yellow
Gray-low
Pink
Magenta
Gray
Chrome
Purple
Black

Only catch is the rubber content in the tire, for example black and purple are really close to the same hardness but purple tends to get sticky toward the end of the run and will have more traction than black. Pink and yellow are like that too, about the same durometer rating but yellow has less traction than pink.

For 17.5 yellow rear / black front or graylow rear / chrome front are good starting points.
Thanks a lot this really helps.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:49 PM   #1242
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Finished this on the cheap.

Xti used
Tekin 17.5 used
HK Track star
HK Nanos



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Old 11-22-2013, 01:36 PM   #1243
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That's awful heavy gauge wire. Might suggest rewiring with 16g. It will be "way" more flexible and fit under the body better. Plus it will be a ton lighter, all the wire weight is upstairs. You want to keep your weight low in the car should grip get high and traction rolling should show up. Plus, I always tell drivers to never bundle their wire with a zip tie or such. It makes the wire bundle too rigid. Great job, though! Go out and dominate.
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:24 PM   #1244
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Default taller gearing

I can't seem to find a smaller spur than a 72 to gear a 21.5 up. I can fit upto a 52 as of now what mods are you all doing to get on larger pinions? I need to be in the 57-63 range. Thanks
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:03 PM   #1245
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I can't seem to find a smaller spur than a 72 to gear a 21.5 up. I can fit upto a 52 as of now what mods are you all doing to get on larger pinions? I need to be in the 57-63 range. Thanks
I ended up gong back to my Xi for our 21.5 class and run the Xti in the 17.5 class. If you can get your rollout close to 100mm with a 21.5 it should be fine. My local track uses a 100mm max rollout rule and it works out pretty well.

72 spur 52 pinion 43mm tire is 97.56mm rollout, not a bad start depending on track size and class rules.
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