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Old 10-22-2013, 06:53 PM   #1216
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Originally Posted by 1armed1 View Post
Andrew,
I have a Alter Ego car on the way after a long hiatus from 1/12.
Should I seal the edges or is the new cf good to go?

Dayton
Awwwwww, snap. Dayton Miller returns to 1/12th....
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:13 PM   #1217
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Awwwwww, snap. Dayton Miller returns to 1/12th....
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:24 PM   #1218
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PM me, I'll give you a base set-up for mortals like us. AK is a one off case....lol.
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:12 AM   #1219
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Originally Posted by Andrew Knapp View Post
"Why run so much pod droop?" That is a question I have been asked by so many people and it is one thing I love to run. I have had it on all of my 17.5 and 13.5 setups for a few years now.
I run a lot of pod droop because that allows the rest of my setup to work.
What I think pod droop does for me:
- allows the car to be smooth if there are any bumps in the track.
-when my car tries to tip over from center-off of the corner pod droop allows the rear tires to gain traction while the front tires are being lightened. So it takes away steering center off. Makes the front tires not dig in and loose speed. When I run pod droop it lets me make my car enter thw corner very aggresivley and then keep corner speed up by not letting the front tires dig and scrub Corner speed.


That's exactly right I am reducing front traction as much as possible! Most people look at my setup and think I'm crazy (frank calandra and Brian wynn) but it makes sense to me.
In spec 12th scale classes its all about corner speed.
.55 front springs help keep the front end flat so it does not dig into the track and lose corner speed.
Same thing with zero camber. I want my tires flat on the track to keep the car flat. Also helps the car not flip in the corner.
Long arm and brace also helps the front end not move and create unwanted traction.
I run the magenta fronts because after reducing all my front end traction in my setup I can then use the rest of my setup to make the car turn.
This is how I see my setup. Not saying I'm right but it seems to be working.
I take away all front traction.
Long arm with brace.
.55 front springs
5 caster with shims all the way forward
No droop in front springs
50000 lube on front springs.
Lots of pod droop.

Then since the front end of the car has almost no traction I make the rear of the car do all the steering by:
Putting 50000 lube in my dampber tubes.
50000 lube makes the car initiate the corner very aggresivly. So with the 50000 lube making the car enter the corner staying flat and reducing rear traction and making the car keep tons of corner speed and tons of rotation then the front end stays flat and pushes so the car keeps maximum corner speed without digging in
I like the blue tires it has tons of rear traction. And no tire wear. From my testing I see blue rear and magenta rear are close. Blue has more grip than magenta.
The green and pink are a alike but I think green rear is more free in the corner.



I run the crc 80 with the 3/32 balls. And I really don't have a good answer for this. I saw everyone running 72 or 76 in 17.5 and 13.5. I guess I just like to be different haha
Clear.....but in Italy 1/12 is very low diffusion ....and our track is small ....i want use 13.5...what is rollout range for this?

Last edited by corally; 10-23-2013 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:28 AM   #1220
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
PM me, I'll give you a base set-up for mortals like us. AK is a one off case....lol.
if not disturb a lot....plse send me also
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:58 AM   #1221
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Question, when going to the transvers set up, do the rear body posts move or are they in the same location? TIA
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:35 PM   #1222
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Question, when going to the transvers set up, do the rear body posts move or are they in the same location? TIA
They r the same.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:11 AM   #1223
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Any idea what springs equal what in the new center and side springs compared to the old ones?
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:19 AM   #1224
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I've just started racing onroad here recently as I am a fairly experienced offroad racer. I've been running a touring car (TC6.1) and the rubber tires and 17.5 blinky class is just plain SLOW.

I've picked up a CRC 1/12 car from a friend. He's helping me with the ropes of foam tire racing.

I plan on using a Tekin RS with a 13.5 and 1s lipo since we run 13.5 blinky around here. What wire gauge should I use? I see some wires that look like receiver wire... I see that 16 gauge is popular as well.

I've been told that an 85mm rollout is also suggested for my local track.

One more thing. I see CRC offers the inline battery setup and the "T" setup. The car currently has the inline setup, but I am debating on going with the "T" setup for quicker response from the car. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance and sorry for the noob questions. I honestly don't know ANYTHING about onroad at this point.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:34 AM   #1225
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Originally Posted by slashracer111 View Post
I've just started racing onroad here recently as I am a fairly experienced offroad racer. I've been running a touring car (TC6.1) and the rubber tires and 17.5 blinky class is just plain SLOW.

I've picked up a CRC 1/12 car from a friend. He's helping me with the ropes of foam tire racing.

I plan on using a Tekin RS with a 13.5 and 1s lipo since we run 13.5 blinky around here. What wire gauge should I use? I see some wires that look like receiver wire... I see that 16 gauge is popular as well.

I've been told that an 85mm rollout is also suggested for my local track.

One more thing. I see CRC offers the inline battery setup and the "T" setup. The car currently has the inline setup, but I am debating on going with the "T" setup for quicker response from the car. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance and sorry for the noob questions. I honestly don't know ANYTHING about onroad at this point.
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Old 11-04-2013, 06:34 AM   #1226
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hello

have a small doubt...yestardy my friend run your xray with a 35 mm of roll out.....and not seem have some trouble..the track is tight ...on your idication rollout was double or more....
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:46 AM   #1227
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I had a little fun with 17.5 powered inline Xti this weekend at the Timezone GP. I put it P2 on the grid and was fortunate enough to grab the W. Randy was exceptional with his kit Xti at IIC, so I was easily inspired for this project. I wanted to make sure that I was using the latest springs (except fronts). This was a straight forward build with nothing funky done. The idea was to get a little more weight forward to reduce front tire slip in effort to see if I can reduce post run fade.... more so at club tracks then big events. I reversed the esc and battery location which makes the wires much shorter and efficient. I did have to use a piece of double back tape under the battery plate to keep it from sliding into the servo. On my car, I did have to sand the football a little to snuggle the esc a little closer. I wanted the shorter wheel base, so I chose the Altered Ego chassis which builds up at 197. I did use the Xti rear plate. I want to say the stock Xti chassis builds at 203. This car drove really well! I built it a week ago. I haven't raced stock since last spring but to my surprise I nailed the set up. Didn't lay a wrench to it all weekend! Now that's lazy racing.

Here's how I put it together:
Front:
.50 front springs (old black)
Kingpin .402" with 50k that I heavily neglected
5* caster block with 2.0 riser
1* camber
1f/2b caster
3.25mm r/h

Middle:
Red center spring (new)
25wt shock oil
Tall ball stud on the upper plate
20k tubes
.50 sides springs, touching
3.5mm r/h

Rear:
-1.5 droop
3.5mm r/h
17.5 KS @ 57* time, 57/72

Tires:
CRC Black fronts; 40.8, CA full sidewall, full dope w/ SXT
CRC Yellow rears; 41.5, no glue, full dope w/ SXT

Body:
Black Art R8C

Brian
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:00 PM   #1228
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Brian,
how big is the track? Is the track high bite? Your roll out 103 correct?
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:44 PM   #1229
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Timezone is big, in our books. 60 x100. My home club track in Seattle, is big too; 48x100. 103 r/o sounds right. The pinion never came off the motor. TZ gets a little tacky from sauce. Grip was medium high with tacky. This last IIC was the highest I've raced on in a long time. When I was out doing photo shoots, I was standing in the groove on back straight. My shoes were sticking to the floor!
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:50 PM   #1230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I had a little fun with 17.5 powered inline Xti this weekend at the Timezone GP. I put it P2 on the grid and was fortunate enough to grab the W. Randy was exceptional with his kit Xti at IIC, so I was easily inspired for this project. I wanted to make sure that I was using the latest springs (except fronts). This was a straight forward build with nothing funky done. The idea was to get a little more weight forward to reduce front tire slip in effort to see if I can reduce post run fade.... more so at club tracks then big events. I reversed the esc and battery location which makes the wires much shorter and efficient. I did have to use a piece of double back tape under the battery plate to keep it from sliding into the servo. On my car, I did have to sand the football a little to snuggle the esc a little closer. I wanted the shorter wheel base, so I chose the Altered Ego chassis which builds up at 197. I did use the Xti rear plate. I want to say the stock Xti chassis builds at 203. This car drove really well! I built it a week ago. I haven't raced stock since last spring but to my surprise I nailed the set up. Didn't lay a wrench to it all weekend! Now that's lazy racing.

Here's how I put it together:
Front:
.50 front springs (old black)
Kingpin .402" with 50k that I heavily neglected
5* caster block with 2.0 riser
1* camber
1f/2b caster
3.25mm r/h

Middle:
Red center spring (new)
25wt shock oil
Tall ball stud on the upper plate
20k tubes
.50 sides springs, touching
3.5mm r/h

Rear:
-1.5 droop
3.5mm r/h
17.5 KS @ 57* time, 57/72

Tires:
CRC Black fronts; 40.8, CA full sidewall, full dope w/ SXT
CRC Yellow rears; 41.5, no glue, full dope w/ SXT

Body:
Black Art R8C

Brian


What was your reason for the short chassis Brian and would you run this setup for a higher powered motor or is it just ideal for 17.5?

Thanks
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