Originally Posted by EricF
Why so much pod droop?
"Why run so much pod droop?" That is a question I have been asked by so many people and it is one thing I love to run. I have had it on all of my 17.5 and 13.5 setups for a few years now.
I run a lot of pod droop because that allows the rest of my setup to work.
What I think pod droop does for me:
- allows the car to be smooth if there are any bumps in the track.
-when my car tries to tip over from center-off of the corner pod droop allows the rear tires to gain traction while the front tires are being lightened. So it takes away steering center off. Makes the front tires not dig in and loose speed. When I run pod droop it lets me make my car enter thw corner very aggresivley and then keep corner speed up by not letting the front tires dig and scrub Corner speed.
Originally Posted by notsocrazybrit
Thanks for posting your setup Andrew.
I have a couple of questions. It seems to me that the front end setup is all about reducing front traction. .55 springs, 0 camber very little Caster, Brace on the front and Minimal Traction Compound. This all says to me you were trying to reduce steering. For front tires though you used Magenta, I've always found them to be maximum steering. If it was me, I probably would have left the front geometry alone and used harder front tires. I would of course be multiple laps behind. What am I Missing?
Just another quick question
The new Blue compound rear tires. Where do they fit in the scheme of things. ?We're all used to the usual Yellow, Pink, Magenta rear tires.
That's exactly right I am reducing front traction as much as possible! Most people look at my setup and think I'm crazy (frank calandra and Brian wynn) but it makes sense to me.
In spec 12th scale classes its all about corner speed.
.55 front springs help keep the front end flat so it does not dig into the track and lose corner speed.
Same thing with zero camber. I want my tires flat on the track to keep the car flat. Also helps the car not flip in the corner.
Long arm and brace also helps the front end not move and create unwanted traction.
I run the magenta fronts because after reducing all my front end traction in my setup I can then use the rest of my setup to make the car turn.
This is how I see my setup. Not saying I'm right but it seems to be working.
I take away all front traction.
Long arm with brace.
.55 front springs
5 caster with shims all the way forward
No droop in front springs
50000 lube on front springs.
Lots of pod droop.
Then since the front end of the car has almost no traction I make the rear of the car do all the steering by:
Putting 50000 lube in my dampber tubes.
50000 lube makes the car initiate the corner very aggresivly. So with the 50000 lube making the car enter the corner staying flat and reducing rear traction and making the car keep tons of corner speed and tons of rotation then the front end stays flat and pushes so the car keeps maximum corner speed without digging in
I like the blue tires it has tons of rear traction. And no tire wear. From my testing I see blue rear and magenta rear are close. Blue has more grip than magenta.
The green and pink are a alike but I think green rear is more free in the corner.
Originally Posted by corally
roll out?...why not use a 76T spur on 13.5?... why have a 1/8" ball?
I run the crc 80 with the 3/32 balls. And I really don't have a good answer for this. I saw everyone running 72 or 76 in 17.5 and 13.5. I guess I just like to be different haha