Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

At the risk of not being certain, it make more off power steering in mod classes. I've yet to prove it to myself.

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Where can I find a pic of the rear diffuser ?

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

here it is......

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

Cool what I was thinking more mid to exit steering depending on setup as always

Need a testing day


Just installed your setup using kit white side and center springs.. in testing have found harder center and softer sides made the car really easy to drive.. have you moved away from the setup u posted few pages back?

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

I am Brian, Max is Max, Dave doesn't post on rctech. You are going to find that only a handful of drivers in the states race mod 12 & CRC. It's been a bad habit for a long time. I used to race mod all the time when there were round cells and 9 turns, this is way faster and far more difficult. Learning is slow for me. I've learned patients all over again. Fortunately Dave, Max and myself got together for the MHIC in Denver. I had all day Friday to tune mod cars. It was frustrating for me as I still have a lot to learn even after as long as I've been driving. There is no cookie cutter set up for CRC in mod (I feel) with the new car just yet. I think we're getting a lot closer. I've been fighting chassis lifting when using mag/mag when the grip gets beyond medium. Low to med, magentas work great. When I switched out to pink/pink, the car was way more forgiving but the tires are 1 n done. Another item, get the battery weight forward to reduce the amount of turn in "lift". We were placing the battery even with the end of the links if you are cross pack. I am using the Altered Ego chassis and rear plate in mod. For the spec guys, I am using the Altered chassis and the Xti rear lower plate (shorter w/b). I was bouncing between the white and red center spring. The white was a little smoother to drive but the bottom of the chassis would gunk up more, I was told not to worry about that so much. The red kept the center of the chassis clean, but it creates a little more off power steering.... if you are in low to medium grip, this is a good thing. I've kind of married myself to white sides in both spec and mod. Going to blues lets the car rotate more but can collapse more when grip comes up making the car looser under acceleration late in a run. Like I said, white sides are my favorite, just touching, 1/4 turn preload to rotate just a little more or 1/4 of float to deaden up that center steering. For mod, I've found that 40.7 is about the biggest front tire you want. Any bigger requires the side wall to be CA'ed, and while you can club race CA, it feels funny to me now. Rounding the edges of the tires is another big item. I still see guys with vertical side walls with a soft little radius. Lay that tire stick into the tire and get a good radius going. You should be able to see a little white from the wheel as you look straight down on the tire. The same with the inside. If you ever feel the car handles crappy and you do not see something immediately wrong, look to the insides of the front tires to see if they are peeling. That happens from not putting a good enough radius on the tire.

Our club raced mod all winter season. I learned a lot and still have a long way to go. I was lucky if I learned just one tiny thing per race day. Somedays, it was just pull the car. Somedays, it was the best thing ever and I took 3rd! There is no question that mod and spec are completely different cars. I flew to Denver just to learn that pink/pink is better in high grip. I would never have learned that at home.

Our club is put away for summer until mid Sept. Its gonna get a little quiet in here! But I look forward to IIC and the pocket full of tricks I picked up over the course of a season.
Brian

BIGBOT

iTrader: (9)

Hi Guys
I just got a XTI with the alter ego chassis on it and was looking for a medium to low grip asphalt setup, any suggestions or starting points?
Thanks in advance

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

While I don't race a CRC, I really enjoyed reading this post.

Snowbirds this year was my first true "high-bite" race. Immediately, the first issue I dealt with was my cars lifting/hiking the inside rear. This was cured by less pod droop and moving the battery fwd... as well as less caster.

Brian, for stock/spec, what changes do you guys typically make when transitioning from low-med to super high-bite?

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

I usually change front end geometry. I like CRC chrome fronts and yellow rears in stock. When grip is low, I lower the upper hinge pins, increase camber, possibly a little more toe out. As grip comes up, I undo do these changes. These are just the basics. Things like king pin length, damper tube lube, top braces, center springs are all finer points. The battery can shift back n forth for even more steering changes (if you are cross pack). Most of the racing I do anymore is medium grip or better. I've lost touch with my "hover craft" set ups.

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

Inbound side springs...

After rebuilding my car after a crash was checking the tweak and was wondering what the effect of moving the springs more inbound ??

Mark Stiles

It will make the lateral springing of the car softer. For the same pod roll angle the inboard spring will compress less, and thus its resistive force will be smaller.

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Mark so you could run harder springs with the same effect of softer springs ? Also is it actually worth testing?

Mark Stiles

Essentially you'd want to run slightly harder springs I think, yes. How much harder is the million dollar question. You could probably work it out with a few simple calcs that I can't be bothered to do.

However, my theory would only be correct if the spring rate was completely linear. I think part of the reason side springs are cone shaped is to try and achieve a linear rate, but I wouldn't be surprised if they're not perfect.

Any idea is worth testing. I can't say I'll be jumping at the chance to try it though as in my opinion it's highly unlikely to be a game changer.

avs

iTrader: (2)

with all the inline arrangements many setups do seem to be operating around the softer end of the spring spectrum.

on the geometry:
the equivalent moment spring stiffness for a linear spring on a lever goes with k*r^2 (r squared) where r is the distance from spring center to the pivot. moving the side spring inboard would reduce r and produce a softer effect from the same spring.

on spring rate(s):
the conic wound side springs by CRC are progressive, k increases with compression.

moving the spring inboard would reduce the amount of spring compression for the same amount of roll deflection. this should make the spring less progressive.

another factor is how much preload on the spring. since the springs only work in compression, increasing preload makes both springs' actions work in combination over a larger range of motion about center. this produces double the roll stiffness around center until one spring lifts off. the increased preload also puts more pressure on the center pivot ball, increasing the friction and wear on the center pivot.

so, if you always looking for a softer side spring, then moving that point inboard might increase the range of available springs you have to work with.

if you are always having issues with pivot freedom (or lack of ) then maybe moving the springs outboard, reducing preload and finding softer springs might be the way to go.

M3Roc

iTrader: (108)

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I run my altered ego with the weight of the car as far back as I can manage, battery back, esc and receiver back, old-fashioned servo placement with a short rear pod plate. The car is very driveable and fast in 17.5 in this setup with medium traction but would there be any big surprises at a national event with insane traction or will it keep being more of the same for the most part? Or will the further suspension compression cause things to go funny?