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Old 11-15-2012, 05:17 AM   #601
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Default teak adjustment

another good (and completely reliable) way to check tweak is to set the ready-to-run car on a flat surface and to pick up gently on the back of the motor pod at the very center of it. If you notice, there is a little hole drilled in the graphite bottom plate to indicate the car's true centerline. Mark the back edge of the graphite bottom plate in a spot directly behind that little centerline hole so that you can find the car's center by looking at the back of the pod. Then you can use the sharp edge of an exacto to pick up gently on the pod right under your center mark until you can just see the rear tires lifting off the flat surface. If one rear tire lifts before the other one, then you've got a tweak issue. To adjust it away, turn down slightly on one side spring adjuster screw and back off slightly on the other one, bounce the car slightly to resettle the suspension, and re-test....... until you get both tires to lift off the flat surface at exactly the same time. Once you've achieved equal "lift-off", then your tweak should be spot on.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:43 AM   #602
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bvoltz - 1/12 cars are very sensitive to tire size. bodine (slap master) touched on it, but what size tires are you running? the need to be trued down substantially from the way they come out of the box. if not, all the setup changes in the world wont help. what size are your tires? for club racing i cut fronts to 1.67 and rears to 1.69, and this is almost too big, but i manage to muscle the car around till they wear enough to be right. at big races, where traction is high, i start at 1.63 fronts, and 1.65 rears. people have a hard time cutting all that foam off a new set of tires, but those people are ususlly the ones that end up chunking and destroying their tires beyond a runnable condition far before they are worn out.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:15 AM   #603
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bvoltz - 1/12 cars are very sensitive to tire size. bodine (slap master) touched on it, but what size tires are you running? the need to be trued down substantially from the way they come out of the box. if not, all the setup changes in the world wont help. what size are your tires? for club racing i cut fronts to 1.67 and rears to 1.69, and this is almost too big, but i manage to muscle the car around till they wear enough to be right. at big races, where traction is high, i start at 1.63 fronts, and 1.65 rears. people have a hard time cutting all that foam off a new set of tires, but those people are ususlly the ones that end up chunking and destroying their tires beyond a runnable condition far before they are worn out.
Currently running 1.63 fronts and 1.67 rears....
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:29 AM   #604
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ok, that should be alright. 99% of the time when a racer brings up a car that "turns more one way that the other" it comes down to 3 things. Kingpin length must be the same. tweak. or camber differences between front wheels. you may also want to make sure the center pivot is very free, as well as the side links. it is very hard to diagnose thins over the internet, the best bet is to get to the track and let someone take a look at your car to help you out.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:35 AM   #605
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One big thing I found that many have wrong in their steering is the servo horn is not dead-center. If the horn is off by 0.005" in either direction, you will feel it in the steering of the car turning harder one direction than the other.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:09 AM   #606
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Here is a picture of my beast. 47/53 in weightbalance. Test on sunday.

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Old 11-15-2012, 11:25 AM   #607
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That might be a bit nose heavy, but it's worth a shot! Word from the shop said: "not as good". Let us know
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:31 AM   #608
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Interesting that the car still has a bit more weight in the back than front with the battery that far forward. I was thinking about setting up mine that way when I get it as I currently run a shorty pack like that in my Xi. Let us know how it works!
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:55 AM   #609
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ok, that should be alright. 99% of the time when a racer brings up a car that "turns more one way that the other" it comes down to 3 things. Kingpin length must be the same. tweak. or camber differences between front wheels. you may also want to make sure the center pivot is very free, as well as the side links. it is very hard to diagnose thins over the internet, the best bet is to get to the track and let someone take a look at your car to help you out.
Thanks... I will have someone give her a look over... I'm sure it is something I'm doing, as a newbie. Which for me is no biggy, it is all part of the learning process... I have measured the kingpins 3 times and every time I get to .404 on both sides... I think I had the side springs screwed down a bit to much, now they are just touching, I need to measure how much of the set screw is sticking up, or is this not a good measurement? I coat all ball ends with Dry Ice after using mothers polish (yes a little over kill but I want it as smooth as butter...) The camber is now .5 but I do not have a gauge to make sure it is dead nuts on... so I could be off just a bit here....
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:57 AM   #610
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One big thing I found that many have wrong in their steering is the servo horn is not dead-center. If the horn is off by 0.005" in either direction, you will feel it in the steering of the car turning harder one direction than the other.
Dumb question, so you use sub trim to set the Servo horn dead center, then make sure the steering buckles are the same length, correct?

Mine are not the same length....
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:16 PM   #611
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What I like to do with my front links is measure from the middle hole of the servo saver to the outside of the cup on the steering links making sure both sides are the same and then I set the toe out of about .5 degrees (just barely) by turning each turnbuckle the same amount.

Also for more front traction I use .410 king pin length to get some droop in the front (with bigger tires) Personally I find it makes the car turn in hard good middle and just the right amount of push coming out of the corner for really tight tracks.
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:32 PM   #612
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Dumb question, so you use sub trim to set the Servo horn dead center, then make sure the steering buckles are the same length, correct?

Mine are not the same length....
The hudy setup station for 1/10th and 1/12th pan cars is worth 10 times its weight in gold. If you are going to stay with 12th scale and be serious about it, its definitely worth the money to get your front end set up properly every time.

It allows you to set your camber, toe, and steering throw easily and accuratly before even going on the track.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:20 PM   #613
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Here is a picture of my beast. 47/53 in weightbalance. Test on sunday.
I had mine set up like that when I went to IIC. The bad news is that it didn't do so well. The better news is that the standard setup didn't do so well for me either so it might work. I'm trying that setup in one of my Xi's with a shorty pack and getting good results, might put the XTi back like that and see what happens.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:39 PM   #614
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Dumb question, so you use sub trim to set the Servo horn dead center, then make sure the steering buckles are the same length, correct?

Mine are not the same length....
It's desirable if you can get the center of the servo saver centered between the A arms, stood straight up (sub trim as necessary leaving your trim at 0), then adjust turnbuckle lengths just like you said. I also like to set my dual rate at 100%, go to my epa's, dial them in for max throw just before it "buzzes" the servo, hopefully you are within a few points, then dial the dual rate back to 75% as a starting point. When you get on the track for warm up laps, you either have enough steering, not enough or need more.... adj your dual rate. My rule of thumb is if I need more then 5% either way, I need to make an adjustment to the chassis. If you hit the track with max steering, it just upsets the car too much. You can race it that way, but you will see it jack the front or jerk the front around too much. Its not efficient.

This is pretty cool everyone is giving their 2 cents. When we all get done, we'll have about $1.81
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:41 PM   #615
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This is pretty cool everyone is giving their 2 cents. When we all get done, we'll have about $1.81
How do you get to 1.81 if everybody is giving 2 cents? Or is the income tax already deducted?
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