Originally Posted by big_ads

Depends on what servo saver you are using and what position they are in. I always like to have the rods slightly higher on the outside of the car. I use the xray servo save with the ball studs in the lowest hole and I use a 2.5 mm shim to raise the ball stud on the steering knuckles. The Kimbrough save I always ran the ball studs in the middle holes with a 1mm shim on the steering knuckles.

Originally Posted by X marksthespot

Thanks for the help,gonna try the x-ray servo saver ,liked it on my old x-ray,plus it seems to be better then my old kimbrough saver

Originally Posted by Core Creations

I'm curious if I can replace the chassis plate from an older XL car with a newer Lipo version chassis? Im not to worried about a complete conversion, just a lipo specific chassis plate.

Originally Posted by X marksthespot

Hello,quick question about steering link angels,is it better to raise the steering ball up to level the rod or lower the servo saver point so they r straight and level with the chassis,the rods have a very slight reward rake to them to the ball cup on the steering blocks,as if I was looking down on the front end.I read this is what u want with the links.I also think this is what is causing the bump steer,it bumps to toe in as the suspension is compressed.I also believe this is one of the reasons the car has a slight push on the corner exit.So do i lower the servo saver points or raise the the ball stud on the steering block to help cure this bump toe in problem??Sorry for the rant,lol.Thanks a lot for the help.Erik

Originally Posted by gubbs3

The front to rear parallel difference will affect the steering ackerman. With the links pointing towards the rear of the car, the outer tire will want to cut a tighter circle than the inner tire. Ackerman generally changes how the car responds in a similar way that toe in/out would, but it is progressive to wheel input rather than static.

Originally Posted by big_ads

Keep in mind you will need to grind a little bit of the bottom of the xray one off to keep it from sticking out the bottom of the chassis.That i did not know,hope it wont make it weaker with the trimming,thanks for the tip



The newer version uses a different style tweak plate and the rear pod is a bit different and the front end requires a u-plate to mount as well. You are better off to get a new kit if you want the lipo plate, if not the XL is still a great car.

Originally Posted by X marksthespot

Does any one know the parts #s to convert and a e chassis to the wc chassis and is it worth it?,is it just the chassis and u plate with 2 more screws or is there more to it?

Originally Posted by big_ads

The chassis and U-plate are the only difference between the worlds car and the AE. The two extra screws for added front end rigidity are the biggest difference aside from having a little more space to mount electronics. As for whether it is worth it or not, the holes are all in the exact same spot so I guess it depends on who you are if it is worth it or not.

Originally Posted by erikras

Putting together my XTI-WC and I have a couple of questions. This is far from my first RC car, but my first pan car.

1) When I hold one side of the axle and rotate the spur gear, I get a click (almost like a detent) about once every revolution. Did I over tighten the diff nut and crush the outer hub bearing?

2) What's the trick to getting these lightened diff rings centered on the hubs? I had to fiddle with both of them for a while before getting them "snapped" into place on the hubs so they were both centered. Is the hassle really worth the tiny bit of saved weight? It seems like standard D rings would keep out more carpet fiber and be far less hassle.

Thank you!

Originally Posted by big_ads

It is possible the bearing is bad on the hub. Take it out and use a pencil to check it by putting side pressure on the bearing while rotating it. Also make sure the balls were clean and the holes they were put into on the gear are clean as well.

As for the D-Rings almost everyone runs the regular ones. The lightened version can be bent pretty easily.

Originally Posted by erikras

Thank you!

One last question... the kit included two 1/4" shims in the the bag with the diff parts. The illustration in the manual shows these being placed between the outer hub bearing and the aluminum diff spacer with the lip. However, the written instructions make no mention of them and I'm not sure what purpose they serve. Do I need these?

If it matters, I'm running 1/8" diff balls and not the included 3/32" balls. My clubs spec class requires running a 78T Kimbrough spur.

Thanks again!