tdu verney

Was that three heats and a main? How did you sauce?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I tested the extended-mount pod top plate and I think it actually allowed my car to carry a little more corner speed. It might have caused the car to be a little more front-biased, but it seemed minor and I think the car controlled the turn-in forces on the grippy carpet surface better than with the stock top plate.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

That's been my experience as well. I run extended plates on my 12th scale car and WGT car. I found that it allows you to run a less aggressive front-end set-up, but still carry excellent cornerspeed. A very useful trait when battling super high traction situations that might lead to traction rolling.

Flygio

Hi Crc'ers!
I have a little problem with my xti-wc... the center shock pops off if hitting the barriers.... The car is pretty new, still the plastic cup has some play on the ball...
I have seen the Team Prime shock, and my question is: is it possible to fit in my xti? I mean, the alloy balls are the same or do I have to switch to others? Do the crc springs fit the shock?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I took some of the spring out of the rear.

InspGadgt

I use cotton inside the ball cups to take up play in both the shock and the steering links. But I doubt that taking up the play is going to stop the shock from popping off. You might have gotten a ball that is slightly undersized. I would suggest replacing the ball and see if that helps.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Yeah I've never had that problem ever. I've broken shafts and plates in nasty hits but the ball cups were still on. Try some new balls and cups.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

on the cap end of the shock, I prefer the plastic piece that has a hole in it rather than the one that looks more like an enclosed ballcup. I have the cap end of my shock towards the front of the car and I'm using a coated ballstud that installs with an allen wrench.....which can be accessed via the hole in the plastic shock cap. That combo works great and the plastic cap never gets loose on the ballstud because I don't ever need to unsnap it. Rather I just unscrew the ballstud on the rare occasions when I want to re-oil or service the shock. For the shaft end, CRC now offers a little aluminum adapter that threads onto the shock shaft and increases its thread size to 4-40. That newish adapter allows you to use most any type of plastic ballcup of your choosing. I use a dubro ball end on mine with a longish 4-40 button head screw that remains in the upper pod plate (in lieu of a ballstud there) so that it's super easy to remove one 4-40 nut to accommodate quick and easy battery changes. This combo does increase the overall length of the shock, so the shock mount needs to move foward one hole in the main chassis, but I consider that too as a benefit.

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

I've seen some pic's where the servo is in a rear position and seen it in the backward position. Looks like directions say to install it backwards. Is it that so you get the weight bias correct or can I install the servo with splines*facing forward with no ill effects?

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

I did as well.

Flygio

Yes, i've seen the adapter, I'll place an order soon. Thanks

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Here's a problem I've been having consistently, lately: What body fits over the front end when you run the 0 degree reactive caster blocks and the roll center adjusters? It stands the front arms way up. The only one I can find that fits is the Strakka, or maybe the Mohawk.

big_ads

iTrader: (88)

Ran the Lola all last year that way with no problem.

RussF

iTrader: (22)

Sorry for the newbie question here, but I've read from about page 100 and it seems that the most common tires choices are Blue Front / Blue Rear. Dbl Blue Front / Green Rear, Black Front / Yellow Rear. My biggest question is what brand? Does it matter?

WIITA

iTrader: (43)

What traction level are you running on?