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Old 01-16-2015, 06:17 PM   #1591
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I had really good luck with my WC this past weekend in Sydney, BC WCICS #5 race. 230 entries on an Island? Crazy! Simply one of the best 13.5 cars I have ever driven!
Brian
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:01 PM   #1592
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I had really good luck with my WC this past weekend in Sydney, BC WCICS #5 race. 230 entries on an Island? Crazy! Simply one of the best 13.5 cars I have ever driven!
Brian
You go Brian.

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Old 01-17-2015, 07:11 AM   #1593
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Man i am having a tough time building a smooth diff. The first one was great. It started to feel a little like sandpaper after a while. Next time i upgraded to ceramic diff balls and the first build it was like sandpaper and not smooth at all. Very frustrating.
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Old 01-17-2015, 07:44 AM   #1594
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Man i am having a tough time building a smooth diff. The first one was great. It started to feel a little like sandpaper after a while. Next time i upgraded to ceramic diff balls and the first build it was like sandpaper and not smooth at all. Very frustrating.
You might want to try changing the outer bearing in the diff hub. A bad outer diff bearing is the usual and the likely cause of a crunchy feeling diff. I've even had a few occasions where a brand new outer bearing still felt crunchy. Those outer bearings do have a really tuff life trying to endure side loads for which they are not designed.
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Old 01-17-2015, 07:58 AM   #1595
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You might want to try changing the outer bearing in the diff hub. A bad outer diff bearing is the usual and the likely cause of a crunchy feeling diff. I've even had a few occasions where a brand new outer bearing still felt crunchy. Those outer bearings do have a really tuff life trying to endure side loads for which they are not designed.
I will try that. New spur, new rings, new balls and crunchy. I did not think of the bearing being bad. Thanks.
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:03 AM   #1596
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One more thing to check in order to achieve a smooth and long lasting diff: With just the bare graphite axle slid into the pod bearings, screw the diff nut by itself onto the threaded stub that protrudes from the end of the graphite. Then spin the axle and observe closely the flat surface of the diff nut.....the part of the nut that is supposed to apply pressure onto the diff cone. Sometimes, upon initial assembly, the nylon diff nuts tend to thread onto the axle stud crooked. If that happens, then the nut's inner flange surface can wobble visibly. A wobbly diff nut will put uneven pressure on the outer diff bearing, and when that happens, the outer bearing will go bad even faster than normal. With a wobbly diff nut the outer bearing can become crunchy in just a run or two. So, if your diff nut wobbles, it's best to toss it out and replace it with another. Aluminum locknuts (since they come pre-threaded) will usually thread onto the stud straight, so using one of those is a good way to improve your diff action in the event that you are having difficulty building up a nice diff and/or getting an all-nylon diff nut to thread onto the stud nice and straight. Thankfully, once you find a good diff nut (one that that does thread on nice and straight), it should last pretty much for the life of the car.
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:42 PM   #1597
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Yeah, that bearing will remain your nemesis until you start running a thrust bearing. One hit and it feels like your car has rocks in the diff.
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:03 PM   #1598
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Yep, you have two options:

1. Buy a big pack of cheap but good bearings and replace the outer one every time the diff gets a bit rough.

2. Get a slapmaster thrust bearing and only have to touch the diff every few races just for a clean-up.

Bearing can be more free but thrust is really just as good and nearly maintenance free.
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:07 PM   #1599
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Yeah, that bearing will remain your nemesis until you start running a thrust bearing. One hit and it feels like your car has rocks in the diff.
I am interested how to add the thrust bearing.
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:25 PM   #1600
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I am interested how to add the thrust bearing.
Buy a slapmaster thrust bearing kit and follow the instructions.

http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=11292
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:49 PM   #1601
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Included instructions -SMT 101
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Announcing the new Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!-instructions..jpg  
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:58 PM   #1602
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
I will try that. New spur, new rings, new balls and crunchy. I did not think of the bearing being bad. Thanks.
Using a Slapmaster thrust bearing assembly really takes the stress off of the outer bearing. All of my pan cars have one; and, I cannot remember the last time I had to replace a bearing within the axle's diff. Slapmaster's also handle big hits far better than the standard diff parts.

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Old 01-17-2015, 05:10 PM   #1603
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Buy a slapmaster thrust bearing kit and follow the instructions.

http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=11292
And it appears I need the 101 for my WC car? I believe I am right at 3.2 based in the diagram
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Old 01-17-2015, 05:18 PM   #1604
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The idea behind the thrust kit is simple; it transfers the load through an actual thrust bearing instead of the radial hub bearing. The Delrin sleeve indexes into the outer race of the hub bearing and becomes the spring in place of the Beleville washer.

Ashford stocks my thrust kits for those on the east coast in a hurry. I ship from my Seattle address on the west coast domestic ($3) and International ($8).

The thrust kits really make me a slacker. I rarely maintain my diff's much anymore in my spec cars. My mod car gets a regular 3 to 4 race day re-lube.

And I swear on a stack of instruction manuals that my hub bearing are the originals the kit came with. Most are couple of years or more old.

The thrust kit does seem to add just a tiny bit of parasitic drag to the diff equation, but it is minimal. You should use the flat side of the washer vs the groove. The circumference of the thrust bearing is nearly identical to that of the radial bearing, so I am not exactly sure where it comes from.

If you are really bored one night, wet sand the flat side of the washers with some oil on 1000 grit with the tip of your finger and then polish with some Mothers on a towel with the tip of your finger in circular pattern. It takes about 20 minutes to do both but it's worth it. Really builds up silky! But trust me, you need to be really bored.

Brian
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Old 01-17-2015, 05:20 PM   #1605
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And it appears I need the 101 for my WC car? I believe I am right at 3.2 based in the diagram
Here's the annoying part to selling thrust kits: all the axle are not the same!

The WC with the included 3/32" diff ball spur gear needs the #109 kit. If you use 1/8" ball spurs, the #120 kit.
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