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Old 01-08-2015, 11:13 AM   #1576
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How good are the new tire compounds? Are you done even considering black/yellow or chrome/greylow as tire options for stock now that the blue and green are here?

Guys have tried the rear blues and green in my area but quit running them because they didn't have the fronts to balance them out.

Im still a black yellow guy... because Horizon only stocks the rears in the new compounds...



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Magenta/Green
Double Blue/Blue

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Old 01-08-2015, 11:14 AM   #1577
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I've only just started running them but they are fantastic so far. I'm not going back unless I'm forced to.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:33 AM   #1578
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Originally Posted by Wade.... View Post
How good are the new tire compounds? Are you done even considering black/yellow or chrome/greylow as tire options for stock now that the blue and green are here?

Guys have tried the rear blues and green in my area but quit running them because they didn't have the fronts to balance them out.

Im still a black yellow guy... because Horizon only stocks the rears in the new compounds...
Blue and Green are very good compounds, the grip is different than Yellow or grey-lows, and I would almost always recommend a Green instead of a Yellow just on how much extra grip it will give you and how much harder you can drive the car. Blue is seems like it is a harder tire and gives less tacky grip, and the one time I ran it I ran Blue/Black instead of Green/Black or Yellow/Black and it just did not have as much grip as the green similar to the yellow but again just felt a little different, like I had screwed up the sauce time or something, but I could see it being a good tire in a different setup.

One other thing about the green compound is it has been the best tire I have run on the back of my Modified car except for one, and that one was the $25 per set Ulti Z compound. The Green ran-in and made grip much more quickly than a Magenta or Pink and didn't fade until I had to pull off the track, best practice run of Mod I have ever had. They do wear quite quickly in Mod, though.

Call me crazy but I never really liked Chrome fronts. If I needed more grip than a Black I would typically run a Purple or something like that. I have run pretty quick on Chrome fronts but the car always seemed a little less sure of itself, the turn-in less linear and predictable as the car would slow down and grip around the apex of the corner.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:52 AM   #1579
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Your Local Permanent track.

Last Weekend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbTe8kvnTLM
Magenta/Green
Double Blue/Blue

9 out of 10 cars. I am pretty sure they had 20-30 pair of tires on the wall.
Thanks Andrew, I didn't even think to check your tire stock... Doh! I'll have to pick up some of those blues to try.

DesertRat, yea chromes are funny. I hated them till I realized you have to sauce to the compound change (about 3/4), otherwise they feel oddly grabby and inconsistent as you get in and out of the groove. IME.
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:25 PM   #1580
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Originally Posted by Wade.... View Post
How good are the new tire compounds? Are you done even considering black/yellow or chrome/greylow as tire options for stock now that the blue and green are here?

Guys have tried the rear blues and green in my area but quit running them because they didn't have the fronts to balance them out.

Im still a black yellow guy... because Horizon only stocks the rears in the new compounds...

I work at Hobbytown in Indy. We have been working with the purchasing staff at Horizon and with BSR to make these front tires available. I think we will see them from Horizon in the next week or two.
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Old 01-09-2015, 04:02 PM   #1581
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What do you guys think of Gravity tires? I raced them a few years back and they were pretty fast but I haven't tried them since. Are they more of a Pink/Magenta/Purple compound or a Green/Blue/DblBlue? I really don't know.
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Old 01-09-2015, 05:37 PM   #1582
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I've been running gravity tires in mod and stock 1/12. Soft front and soft rear in mod. Super soft in rear if you want a little more steering. Med front and med rear in 17.5/13.5. I'll go to soft rear sometimes for more steering in 13.5 and for med grip I'll run a hard front. First min with hard fronts sometimes is kinda pushy but comes in good and works good to the end of the race. I'd have to ask Paul how they compare to other compounds but I haven't even worried about it. Mod always wears tires out fast, but motors and batteries are cheaper
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Old 01-11-2015, 03:53 PM   #1583
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Any build tips for the wc?
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:54 PM   #1584
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Your Local Permanent track.

Last Weekend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbTe8kvnTLM
Magenta/Green
Double Blue/Blue

9 out of 10 cars. I am pretty sure they had 20-30 pair of tires on the wall.

I looked at the video from the link you provided. Where is the track? Address?
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:58 PM   #1585
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Any build tips for the wc?
It fits together very well. The only area I don't care for was the mounting of the upper arm on the front. I have tried to fit that a little better so it doesn't bind. I used a reamer on the mount so the hinge pin could rotate in the caster block. I also polished the hinge pin. But follow the directions and it should be money.
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:11 PM   #1586
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It fits together very well. The only area I don't care for was the mounting of the upper arm on the front. I have tried to fit that a little better so it doesn't bind. I used a reamer on the mount so the hinge pin could rotate in the caster block. I also polished the hinge pin. But follow the directions and it should be money.
The upper hinge pin isn't supposed to be rotating in the caster block, it's held solid in the caster block and the arm twists on the pin. If it's sticking, ream out the arm.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:29 AM   #1587
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The upper hinge pin isn't supposed to be rotating in the caster block, it's held solid in the caster block and the arm twists on the pin. If it's sticking, ream out the arm.
If your doing anything to the caster block, its sanding the ends of it so the spacers dont cause a bind. The pin itself needs to be pinched. Like the above mentioned, ream the upper A.
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:30 AM   #1588
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Default suggested tweaks for an awesome upper arm assembly

I find it preferable to ream the hole in each upper arm so that they both will drop freely on their pivot pin under just their own weight. This step is really important. Then I touchup the ends of each caster block (and the little plastic retainer piece) only to smooth away any flashing that may remain from the molding process. If the caster shims fit too tight (which they typically do), then I reduce the thickness of just one little caster shim for each side of the car. I'll sand one shim per side just enough so that the group of shims fit without adding any bind to the motion of the upper arm on it's pin. This takes some patience and a little trial and error until the shim stack fits perfectly on each side.....with no slop but no binding either. I've also found that there is an unexpected side benefit to having one caster shim per side slightly thinner than the other two shims. One slightly thinner caster shim per side makes it possible to mix and match the shims in order to achieve exactly the same caster setting on both sides of the car - even in spite of any minor molding tolerances that might otherwise result in slightly uneven caster settings. Admittedly this process can be a little tedious, but once done, the result is an awesome front end that has no slop or excessive play whatsoever and yet is totally free to go thru it's motions without any unwanted binding or resistance.
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:22 PM   #1589
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If your doing anything to the caster block, its sanding the ends of it so the spacers dont cause a bind. The pin itself needs to be pinched. Like the above mentioned, ream the upper A.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
I find it preferable to ream the hole in each upper arm so that they both will drop freely on their pivot pin under just their own weight. This step is really important. Then I touchup the ends of each caster block (and the little plastic retainer piece) only to smooth away any flashing that may remain from the molding process. If the caster shims fit too tight (which they typically do), then I reduce the thickness of just one little caster shim for each side of the car. I'll sand one shim per side just enough so that the group of shims fit without adding any bind to the motion of the upper arm on it's pin. This takes some patience and a little trial and error until the shim stack fits perfectly on each side.....with no slop but no binding either. I've also found that there is an unexpected side benefit to having one caster shim per side slightly thinner than the other two shims. One slightly thinner caster shim per side makes it possible to mix and match the shims in order to achieve exactly the same caster setting on both sides of the car - even in spite of any minor molding tolerances that might otherwise result in slightly uneven caster settings. Admittedly this process can be a little tedious, but once done, the result is an awesome front end that has no slop or excessive play whatsoever and yet is totally free to go thru it's motions without any unwanted binding or resistance.
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The upper hinge pin isn't supposed to be rotating in the caster block, it's held solid in the caster block and the arm twists on the pin. If it's sticking, ream out the arm.

There you have it. Three guys jumped up and offered the same alternative solution. And that is great because their idea is valid. One thing we all agree is that this area needs attention. I am going to give their solution a try.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:16 PM   #1590
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I looked at the video from the link you provided. Where is the track? Address?
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