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Old 09-15-2012, 11:50 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by Bhodi11 View Post
40k rear, 300k center, 300k front. 1k shocks. That is the stock setup.

A couple notes from the build so far.

1. 2 shims (provided)for rear diff, 0 for front. Still not sure if it is correct though.
2. Dont use the 3 x 15mm screws for attaching front of steering top plate to bulkhead. Way too long, they barley go in all the way and you will strip them trying. Try 3 x 10 or 12mm. More than enough.
3. Going to talk to a friend tommorow, I think it may be possible to shave the motor mount down 4mm to fit the truggy tekin. It will be close but may be doable.
A seperate shim set might have been included. not sure I am just speculating from the Be build. you can check the buggy e downloads section for the new shimming.

3x15 fits, you need to tap the hole to make it go in. its the same with all cars in the 811 series. that area on the bulk head is under a lot of stress due to the kickup.

keep us posted on the Motor mount shaving operation.
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:59 PM   #92
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A seperate shim set might have been included. not sure I am just speculating from the Be build. you can check the buggy e downloads section for the new shimming.

3x15 fits, you need to tap the hole to make it go in. its the same with all cars in the 811 series. that area on the bulk head is under a lot of stress due to the kickup.

keep us posted on the Motor mount shaving operation.
This may be a dumb question but how do you know to shim or not shim? You cant actually see the gear mesh like you can on a pinion and spur? Thanks for the heads up on the 3 x 15mm issue
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Old 09-15-2012, 02:07 PM   #93
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This may be a dumb question but how do you know to shim or not shim? You cant actually see the gear mesh like you can on a pinion and spur? Thanks for the heads up on the 3 x 15mm issue
This will sound dumb but you start to get a feel for it after a while. Mind you I have built quite a few of these cars. Now I can strip one down and put it back up in 2 hours run the car all day long and nothing breaks or loosens up (knock on wood stays that way)

but to give pointers,

I shim the diffs dry, meaningno oil in them. I used to put it in and out about 20 times when I started this now couple tries and I ll be dead on.

it also depends on the molding on the gears as they are not perfectly matched. So I usually open up both bags and check all 4 gears before I assemble them. sometimes when you build it at first what ever you do it feels as if its tigh on one side and free on the other.

you do not want too free when you first start but you do not want to hear all the teeth engaging too. you want to gears to mate and wear together in a good contact. once you run the car 30 mins to and hour put the diffs out and check the wear and adjust accordingly. the car will feel much better the second time you put on track...

on my gt the car will roll about 100 meters before coming to a stop so the rools real good. just keep trying
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:02 PM   #94
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I really dont see a reason to run a RX8 w/ a castle 2200 unless you have both on hand already and wanted to put something together.
At best it will behave like a RX8 with a T8 motor with the Sensor wire disconnected, It will start to roll out smooth and then will jerk/Jolt before taking off. Try it out with another car you have with a tekin combo and diconnect the sensor and roll out slow from a stop, you will notice what im talking about. Roll out will not be linear. you may be able to smooth it out a little using hotwire but i dont think you would be able to get rid of it completely. i dont know if its just me or what but it just seems like tekin motors are more quite then the Castle motors. even with the car off and rolling it back and forth the mesh seems so much more quite with the tekins. might just be me though.

I really wish MMM came Sensored, I have never delt with a company that has better customer service then Castle. Ive sent multiple MMM ESC's back to them and within 7-10 days ill have a replacement in my hands plus the MMM ESC's run much more cooler the the RX8's. I will never run another RX8 without an upgraded fan again
Tekin's customer service isnt bad either, I sent them a melted RX8 and they sent me a sealed BNIB RX8 but 120 days vs 1 year is a big difference and i dont know how friendly they will be if i have to send them back another melted ESC.
I just purchased a Tekin 2250kv RX8 combo to put in my DM1e and moved the Mamba 2200kv setup into my buggy. Im going to use the Tekin 1900kv RX8 combo in the Cobra. I took out the DM1e tonight and ran several packs through it. Awesome motor, stays cool, great run times too. Even driving it hard on 4S. At any rate I will get to the point. I forgot to plug in the sensor cable and did not even realize it until I was putting in the 4th pack. I thought it did not seem quite as smooth as I thought it would be but did not have any cogging whatsoever. It is still a night and day difference over the Mamba running unsensored. I am going to run it some more tomorrow with the sensor cable in (left it at home tonight) and out. May even hot swap the Mamba in for comparison. An additional note hotwire was all default settings except for voltage cutoff.
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:31 PM   #95
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I have pretty much finished the buit except for the motor, which has proved to be pretty frustrating. I hoped to take it out to tonight but just gave up. I will say the fit and tolerences of the parts are perfect, almost too perfect. I ended up using the shorter screws on the front of the top plate as I was nervous about trying to tap them deeper and possibly cracking the diff housing. I stripped out 2 sets of 15mm screws, which I had to slowly back each one out with pliers both times. Big pain in the but. On to the motor. Go to the drugstore and get the biggest bottle of Astro Glide they have, you are going to need it. The Tekin 1900kv is a crazy tight fit. First time I put in in I forgot the pinion. It took a lot of force to get it out. I put my 26T pinion on and went at it again. Well this time realized the center diff shield was going to be in the way and would need to be trimmed to work. Like to never got the motor back out the second time and it was not even all the way in. The quality of the kit is great but I think not making a new chassis plate for the GTe and just re using the buggy version was a big mistake. 1900kv and 1700kv are pretty common for buggies and more than enough power in that arena but in a GT car it is not going to be enough I think to be competitive. Another 6mm and there would be a lot more options with room to spare in some cases.
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:54 PM   #96
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It just occured to me to remove the motor side battery tray. Problem solved motor goes in/out a lot easier.
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Old 09-16-2012, 10:27 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Bhodi11 View Post
I just purchased a Tekin 2250kv RX8 combo to put in my DM1e and moved the Mamba 2200kv setup into my buggy. Im going to use the Tekin 1900kv RX8 combo in the Cobra. I took out the DM1e tonight and ran several packs through it. Awesome motor, stays cool, great run times too. Even driving it hard on 4S. At any rate I will get to the point. I forgot to plug in the sensor cable and did not even realize it until I was putting in the 4th pack. I thought it did not seem quite as smooth as I thought it would be but did not have any cogging whatsoever. It is still a night and day difference over the Mamba running unsensored. I am going to run it some more tomorrow with the sensor cable in (left it at home tonight) and out. May even hot swap the Mamba in for comparison. An additional note hotwire was all default settings except for voltage cutoff.
I did the same in a RS Pro combo a couple of years ago. But from what I remember there was a big difference in power....
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:34 AM   #98
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Looks like Amain has them now!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...600045&x=0&y=0
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:17 AM   #99
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Just got the last one from Amain. WOOHOO!!

Not sure on a few things?

ESC and motor combo (real measurement) KV ETC. Prefer all in one combo if possible.

Best fit for Lipo 4 & 6S to fit nicely.

A good rim and tire combo. Rubber and foam?

Body shells?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:26 AM   #100
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Tekin:
TT2310, RX8 ESC with 4030 motor 2650kv
TT2311, RX8 ESC with 4030 motor 2050kv

Hobbywing: (tight fit)
Combo M5B, Xerun 150A ESC, with 4068SD motor 2250kv

LRP:
ESC: LRP iX8
Motor: Dynamic 8, 2200kv or 2600kv.

These sets run on 4S lipo, don't know if they all can handle 6S.

Car is designed to have 2x2S hardcase lipo's.
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:01 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by dhp101 View Post
Just got the last one from Amain. WOOHOO!!

Not sure on a few things?

ESC and motor combo (real measurement) KV ETC. Prefer all in one combo if possible.

Best fit for Lipo 4 & 6S to fit nicely.

A good rim and tire combo. Rubber and foam?

Body shells?

Thanks in advance.
Tekin RX8 w/ 2650 combo or 2050

4s

Servo with 200+ oz of torque and response from .09 to .14
Any faster and the steering becomes to snappy IMHO
I prefer .11 to .13 response.

Tires id go with a set of GRP B compound rally tires for sure and then a set of slicks like Sweeps 45's unless its currently over 75 degrees where your from then id go with 50's. Alphas and Ipanemas are also good choices
Bruckner is #1 for tires. They have the best prices hands down and one of the few places that sell GRP's too

Bodies id start off with a PF-8. Its the cheapest body($30)out there and doesnt look bad either. It also performs well on the track.
once your driving skills improve and you not blasting everything in you way then you can buy a nicer body.
All bodies with 320mm-330mm wheelbase will fit. All 1/8 GT bodies are that size except the Kyosho Inferno GT2 bodys. They are longer and wont fit.
any body that fits a DM-1 spec, Gtp2e and Inferno GT1(not GT2) will fit your car.

Have Fun
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:26 PM   #102
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Default Tyres / Tires

I thought I would chime in here, been racing GT8e's for a couple of years in CA.

For tyres, most of us run PMT Rally 06, here in so cal. I'd also recommend thr GRPs as well. The rubber on these tyres is similar to 1:1 tyres. They can take the abuse of the 1/8 brushless motors. That's why theyre also used on 1/5 scale. The downside of these type of tyres are that they take a while to warm up. However once they do, the grip they offer is amazing and it's hard to make them overheat. They also last a long time.

The sweeps and others are a latex rubber, similar to 1/10 scale. They're great tyres and offer amazing grip... with little warm up time required. They also work well with GT8 nitro and are more popular than pmt / grp. However brushless is a different animal. The immediate torque that these motors have is insane. These motors overheat the latex type tyres with extreme ease. So unless your a smooth driver ( which I'm far from) by middle of heat, you will over heat your tyres and be all over the place.

That's my 2 cents. Enjoy the car, it's a welcome addition to the GT8 class.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:10 PM   #103
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I dunno man I can get 2 DM-1 and 1/2 a castle Mamba for this
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:39 AM   #104
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Thank you all for your response.

Much appreciated!!
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:50 AM   #105
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I dunno man I can get 2 DM-1 and 1/2 a castle Mamba for this
yes but that wont be worth half a Serpent....
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