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Old 08-02-2014, 06:34 AM   #481
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Well the Orion motors don't fit the can is too large so unless you are using a 19t plus pinion you won't clear the chassis enough to slide the mount in further. Pity they are a beefy little beast!
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:56 PM   #482
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Wow, money pit car!
So far it's been:

RTR - that was rubbish quality so spares, I'll use the lid though
GT Kit
Lightweight Radio Box set
Alloy C Hubs
Alloy Steering Blocks (had these from my Nitro)
Alloy Chassis Braces
Lightweight Hexes (had these also)
6 * Sets of GRP Tyres UPS from Italy
BLS 451 Servo
IX8 ESC
Orion 2200 motor (that needs shims)

.... I guess I'll be eating two minute noodles for a while!
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:39 PM   #483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
Wow, money pit car!
So far it's been:

RTR - that was rubbish quality so spares, I'll use the lid though
GT Kit
Lightweight Radio Box set
Alloy C Hubs
Alloy Steering Blocks (had these from my Nitro)
Alloy Chassis Braces
Lightweight Hexes (had these also)
6 * Sets of GRP Tyres UPS from Italy
BLS 451 Servo
IX8 ESC
Orion 2200 motor (that needs shims)

.... I guess I'll be eating two minute noodles for a while!
Another RTR disappointment heh have you learnt not to get RTR's no matter the brand, these are for the basher quality is no where near the kits it pays to spend that little extra or you'll be spending that in the end anyway.
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:59 PM   #484
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It was useful as I used it to convert an 811 2.0 Buggy to Electric, although the motor mount won't stay put (keeps moving on the slider) so thats another challenge I guess!
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Old 08-05-2014, 12:15 AM   #485
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Lucky not a complete loss for you then
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Old 08-05-2014, 03:48 AM   #486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
Wow, money pit car!
So far it's been:

RTR - that was rubbish quality so spares, I'll use the lid though
GT Kit
Lightweight Radio Box set
Alloy C Hubs
Alloy Steering Blocks (had these from my Nitro)
Alloy Chassis Braces
Lightweight Hexes (had these also)
6 * Sets of GRP Tyres UPS from Italy
BLS 451 Servo
IX8 ESC
Orion 2200 motor (that needs shims)

.... I guess I'll be eating two minute noodles for a while!
Now you know why I want to get rid of this thing from Kit form to all the upgrades in minus the ESC/Motor/Transponder for $500.
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Old 08-24-2014, 03:59 PM   #487
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Has anyone tried the 0deg c hubs yet they are pricey so I don't want to order if they don't make a significant difference. I already have the 10deg and 0deg steering knuckles.
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:27 PM   #488
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Has anyone tried the 0deg c hubs yet they are pricey so I don't want to order if they don't make a significant difference. I already have the 10deg and 0deg steering knuckles.
0 deg caster blocks are awesome and definitely worth the money. Tires wear much flatter, and car turns in off power better. I'm still using the 0 deg steering knuckles too.
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Old 08-24-2014, 07:47 PM   #489
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0 deg caster blocks are awesome and definitely worth the money. Tires wear much flatter, and car turns in off power better. I'm still using the 0 deg steering knuckles too.
How much did it cost since i am still have this money pit?
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Old 08-24-2014, 07:49 PM   #490
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Nearly finished mine, Have the Alloy Caster Blocks and Alloy Steering Knuckles installed, have also picked up an Ofna X3Gte to do a direct comparison, E clip and dogbone land there as well.

Just hope the motor stays still
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:33 PM   #491
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How much did it cost since i am still have this money pit?
$76.16 from serpentamerica.com. I haven't tried mine using the stock steering knuckles, so I can't say that the 0 deg steering knuckles are a must have as well. I would rate them as more of a tuning option, once you have the 0 deg caster blocks. If you want even less caster (kickup), you can flip the front hinge pin block upside down, and this will take a few degrees of kickup out of the front arms. Then there's the front inserts that can do +/- 1.5 deg kickup as well.
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:14 PM   #492
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Okay I finally got out and was able to do some good testing on the new 0 deg caster blocks. I ran two cars today with identical setups one with the 10 deg and the other with the 0 degree caster blocks. I started my day off with the car I race all the time to get a control. Once I went trough a tank of fuel I jumped immediately over to the 0 deg car. The first corner I was sold.

The steering feels so good, much more natural and smoother than the 10 degree. The setup I was running had 1mill cst in the front diff and 60k in the rear. I have never had so much on power steering I am going to have to learn to use it out of the corners for more speed. Rotation is great but I felt the car could have a little more turn in.

I then swapped the stock option 3 ackerman with the option 2 as we often do on the buggy. The car responded very well adding more turn in and taming down the on power slightly. This felt much better to me and ultimately is what I stuck with by the end of the day. The car was dialed and I made little to no setup changes (just ackerman).

Overall the car on the zero degree blocks felt the best and the blocks will make their way over to my main car asap. Im going to keep the test car with the zero degree caster together as I would like to play with the diff oil cst a bit to see if I can get the car to rotate more how I am use to.

Serpent nailed it on these, well done!
Quoted from the nitro Cobra GT thread. Since there's a larger population of nitro GT8 racers, it's interesting to see what they say about the 0 deg caster blocks, 0 deg steering knuckles. Also crazy to see that they often run black springs all the way around, and 1 million cst front diff oil. But that setup would be for a REALLY high bite track.
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:32 PM   #493
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OK got the 0deg aluminum c hubs on. Really threw my geometry out had to rework the whole front end. If it gets less push more mid corner on power steering I'll be happy. I've had a problem getting a good front / rear balance from this car. When I would get the push dialed out it would lift the rear and diff out when you hit the gas. When I get the rear locked in it pushes on power and corner entry. I've really just now got it pretty good. I did that by resetting the whole car and taking a lot of cues from from Andy Liu's nitro setup. And tuning from there. Right now I run the black spgs on all four corners, 1000cst shock oil, 2deg camber rear and 1.5 in front. Grp s5 tires (spec for my club track) and a rx8 driving a tekin 2650.
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Old 09-04-2014, 11:25 PM   #494
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What gearing are you on with the 2650? We have a 2300kv limit, and they are making tyres Hong Nor or Sweep only (as surprise surprise thats what the LHS sells and they have the sponsored drivers etc.... bleh!)

I'm starting with Andy Liu's set up give or take, 300k F and Centre diff, only have the Yellow and Purple springs for now, seems strange to me (coming from a 1:10 TC background) to run the hardest springs all round to get grip. I have the 2.0 back end so may be a tad different for me.
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Old 09-05-2014, 03:01 AM   #495
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Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
What gearing are you on with the 2650? We have a 2300kv limit, and they are making tyres Hong Nor or Sweep only (as surprise surprise thats what the LHS sells and they have the sponsored drivers etc.... bleh!)

I'm starting with Andy Liu's set up give or take, 300k F and Centre diff, only have the Yellow and Purple springs for now, seems strange to me (coming from a 1:10 TC background) to run the hardest springs all round to get grip. I have the 2.0 back end so may be a tad different for me.
I'm running the stock spur with 16t pinion. On a small tight parking lot track. And 300k front, 200k center, 40k rear. I had to run the black springs to get the car to transition left to right quick enough. This car is heavier out of the box than the ofna's and kyosho's I'm running against. The car tended to flop around to much. If I can get the steering right it will be dialed now. Next phase is to put this thing on a diet.
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