Serpent Cobra GT-E
#391
Which servo do you guys use? I have a spare Futaba S9352HV ( high voltage ) lying around. I guess that would be ok right? Or are there better options?
For instance this one ( quite expensive though ) : http://sanwa-denshi.com/rc/car/servo/digtal_erg-wx.html
Thinking about going for a MGM controller with a Lehner motor by the way. Once I finish the car I will check out if 8s will even be possible ;-)
For instance this one ( quite expensive though ) : http://sanwa-denshi.com/rc/car/servo/digtal_erg-wx.html
Thinking about going for a MGM controller with a Lehner motor by the way. Once I finish the car I will check out if 8s will even be possible ;-)
Last edited by MarcEnMilo; 04-17-2014 at 08:04 AM. Reason: Link added
#392
Tech Master
iTrader: (64)
GT-E for sale
Hey guys, I have a Cobra GT-E that I'm thinking of selling. I thought I'd check you guys out on this thread before I list it on the 'for sale' thread.
It has a Viper VTX8 ESC, a Spektrum S6040 servo, and a Thunder Power 2100kv motor. I can sell that roller only or with all or some of the electronics. Anyone game?
It has a Viper VTX8 ESC, a Spektrum S6040 servo, and a Thunder Power 2100kv motor. I can sell that roller only or with all or some of the electronics. Anyone game?
#397
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Can somebody tell me the major differences between the Kit (~$570) which is just a roller with out wheels, and the RTR (~$550).
About the only major things I see is the carbon fiber shock towers and other carbon bits. Are there other things that make the kits significantly more expensive than the RTR.
Considering a prepainted body, wheels and electronics alone in the RTR, that would make the Kit more than $200 more than if a person could buy the RTR in the same bare bones as the kit.
It almost seems the the RTR is a better buy for a basher like me.
About the only major things I see is the carbon fiber shock towers and other carbon bits. Are there other things that make the kits significantly more expensive than the RTR.
Considering a prepainted body, wheels and electronics alone in the RTR, that would make the Kit more than $200 more than if a person could buy the RTR in the same bare bones as the kit.
It almost seems the the RTR is a better buy for a basher like me.
#398
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Can somebody tell me the major differences between the Kit (~$570) which is just a roller with out wheels, and the RTR (~$550).
About the only major things I see is the carbon fiber shock towers and other carbon bits. Are there other things that make the kits significantly more expensive than the RTR.
Considering a prepainted body, wheels and electronics alone in the RTR, that would make the Kit more than $200 more than if a person could buy the RTR in the same bare bones as the kit.
It almost seems the the RTR is a better buy for a basher like me.
About the only major things I see is the carbon fiber shock towers and other carbon bits. Are there other things that make the kits significantly more expensive than the RTR.
Considering a prepainted body, wheels and electronics alone in the RTR, that would make the Kit more than $200 more than if a person could buy the RTR in the same bare bones as the kit.
It almost seems the the RTR is a better buy for a basher like me.
#399
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Having gone the Rtr route before I will tell you that of the 9 vehicles I own only one is still an Rtr that's my slash 4x4, while I haven't personally seen the 811 Rtr and being a serpent it's probably a cut Above most others I'll bet there are a lot more differences than just the carbon bits. Probably different metallurgy in the drive shafts and axles etc.. the electronics in the Rtr have a decent rep and if your just bashing probably OK for a while. I have raced my kit hard and had some pretty nasty collisions and have yet to break anything. For reliability and quality I would go kit if you ever do want to race it the cost of upgrading the Rtr to a competitive reliable state usually is far more expensive than building the kit imo. I only build kits now for these reasons and I enjoy the building process. Not saying this is a bad Rtr just my 2 cents.
Really, I'm just looking for something to hang a body on and take out from time to time to run around. I have many other over powered RC's in cars and Airplanes should I feel the real need for speed.
I'm all for the kit, but just want to know the real differences from the RTR...
My heart is thinking kit, but my brain says RTR, or even an Ofna DM1-E for hanging a body on and fooling around with.
#400
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Yes, I generally like Kits over RTR, however I'm just trying to understand if the kit is that much more car over the RTR to a basher, who most likely will never race it as we just don't have the interest here.
Really, I'm just looking for something to hang a body on and take out from time to time to run around. I have many other over powered RC's in cars and Airplanes should I feel the real need for speed.
I'm all for the kit, but just want to know the real differences from the RTR...
My heart is thinking kit, but my brain says RTR, or even an Ofna DM1-E for hanging a body on and fooling around with.
Really, I'm just looking for something to hang a body on and take out from time to time to run around. I have many other over powered RC's in cars and Airplanes should I feel the real need for speed.
I'm all for the kit, but just want to know the real differences from the RTR...
My heart is thinking kit, but my brain says RTR, or even an Ofna DM1-E for hanging a body on and fooling around with.
#401
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
I have a Traxxas Rally that I have converted over to a GT8-Lite, running a CC 2650kv/Mamba Monster 2 on 4s with a DP8 body & Sweep P1L fitted. I also have a XO-1, and was just looking to add another road car to the stable like the Cobra or DM-1
I really like the pure race car design of the Cobra, however you are right, It may not be as good a basher as some of the lower cost alternatives. I'm not afraid of cost, but does it make sense for this application. I was wanting to use a Tekin RX8/2650kv power system with the next road car.
#402
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Looking at it I think your right, instead of the spring steel stuff they substituted it for something else, the shocks are a different material, and then all the carbon bits are replaced with plastic or lower grade alumn.
I would think for a basher this might be a better car.. parts might be cheaper! I would guess it might not be designed to be run for 2-3 seasons of parts wear on a race track where everything is pushed to the limit but is probably just the car your looking for.
I would think for a basher this might be a better car.. parts might be cheaper! I would guess it might not be designed to be run for 2-3 seasons of parts wear on a race track where everything is pushed to the limit but is probably just the car your looking for.
#403
Gentlemen, is there such Carbon Chassis replacement upgrade for this GT-E?
I google around and no such luck if even exist.
I google around and no such luck if even exist.
#404
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Looking at it I think your right, instead of the spring steel stuff they substituted it for something else, the shocks are a different material, and then all the carbon bits are replaced with plastic or lower grade alumn.
I would think for a basher this might be a better car.. parts might be cheaper! I would guess it might not be designed to be run for 2-3 seasons of parts wear on a race track where everything is pushed to the limit but is probably just the car your looking for.
I would think for a basher this might be a better car.. parts might be cheaper! I would guess it might not be designed to be run for 2-3 seasons of parts wear on a race track where everything is pushed to the limit but is probably just the car your looking for.
Sounds like a solid argument
Talk about sweet if there was!
#405
We run on a large 1/8 track, one of the largest in the country. It is probably similar in size to the Homestead track in Miami.
I run 46/21 gearing in my Cobra GTE with a Tekin 2650 with 2 x 2s 7200mah 80c Trakpowers. We have a long back straight roughly 220' so 55-60mph is the ideal speed to gear for to be competitive. After 2 or 3 slow practice laps and a 7 minute race when I pull my car off the track my batteries are at 3.7 - 3.8 per cell. Technically if you connected a lipo voltage checker to the batteries it would say there is 40-50 percent power remaining but really there isn't much run time left to keep racing and still keep the lipos at a safe cut off voltage.
Just to be clear these are figures for the fastest cars on our track which seems to be consistent with 4s 7200mah lasting to about 3.7-3.8 per cell.
slower cars on the track would use much less power for the same race
I run 46/21 gearing in my Cobra GTE with a Tekin 2650 with 2 x 2s 7200mah 80c Trakpowers. We have a long back straight roughly 220' so 55-60mph is the ideal speed to gear for to be competitive. After 2 or 3 slow practice laps and a 7 minute race when I pull my car off the track my batteries are at 3.7 - 3.8 per cell. Technically if you connected a lipo voltage checker to the batteries it would say there is 40-50 percent power remaining but really there isn't much run time left to keep racing and still keep the lipos at a safe cut off voltage.
Just to be clear these are figures for the fastest cars on our track which seems to be consistent with 4s 7200mah lasting to about 3.7-3.8 per cell.
slower cars on the track would use much less power for the same race