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Old 04-14-2014, 03:19 PM   #376
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Ok need some help guys looking to reset my car and start all over
Long story short I built the chassis using a combo of morgantinis nitro setup and the default setup. I can't get this car handleing correctly and I'm to the point where every change I make helps one issue and worsens another.
So my setup
I run on a small track with med traction pavement and lots of tight 180 turns
16 t pinion stock spur, tekin rx8 gen 2 and tekin t8 2650
On 4s
Grp revo tires are spec for this club so I can't change those.
2.3 mm front sway bar , stock rear
35 wt shock oil with the kit stock pistons
Can't remember my ride height I think its lik 8.5rear and 7.5 frt

So the problem is I can't get ride of a horrible push without inducing a loose rear that wants to diff out
I'm 1-2 seconds off the pace of a heavier gtv2e and its really annoying
Oh also I have 300,000 front diff and center and 30,000 rear

If anyone has a setup sheet or knows where to find a good one I could use the help
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:33 PM   #377
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Just curious how did u come up with a 35wt shock oil? That sounds wayyyy off
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:44 PM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltron989 View Post
Just curious how did u come up with a 35wt shock oil? That sounds wayyyy off
Sorry typo its 800cst 60wt

It's Paolo morgantini s byrons setup but its the for the nitro
It was the only starting point setup I could find
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:58 PM   #379
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What springs? If your using same springs that morganti uses then that could be one of your problems. I run 800cst with yellow springs in front reds on rear. Basically the softest springs.
Do u have the 10 degree c-hubs and 0 degree steering blocks? If not u need them.
Also how much rear droop do u currently have(mm over ride height) sounds like u could use more.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:18 PM   #380
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Originally Posted by Voltron989 View Post
What springs? If your using same springs that morganti uses then that could be one of your problems. I run 800cst with yellow springs in front reds on rear. Basically the softest springs.
Do u have the 10 degree c-hubs and 0 degree steering blocks? If not u need them.
Also how much rear droop do u currently have(mm over ride height) sounds like u could use more.
I have yellow in front purple in the rear (red on the way from amain)
Droop looks to be 5-6 mm rear about 4 front just eyeballing it
Shock pos rear top 4 in from outside bottom outside
Front is 5 in from outside on the top outside on the bottom
Camber links rear outside on the hubs second from the bottom inside on the towers
Front outside on the hubs inside second from top on the tower
Just lowered the roll center yesterday on the front helped the push a bit but I'm still fighting the car around the track. Not smooth can't hit my marks with it. If you have a setup that works for you I'd love to try it
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:19 PM   #381
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I will have to order the c hubs but Damn those steering knuckles are pricey
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:12 PM   #382
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Get the red springs for the rear.
Raise ride height 9F/10R
More rear droop u should be closer to 8-10mm over ride height.
Front sounds close maybe a hair more
Get the 10 degree CHubs and the 0degree steering blocks they will provide the biggest change for you. Don't buy from amain they are wayyyyyy over priced.
I order all my serpent parts from [email protected]
On average 30 percent cheaper then amain.
Other stuff that may help with turn in is -2mm front hexes and go even softer (1.9-2.1) front sway bar but stick with 2.3mm at first
If u don't have the hard servo spring also order that to. The stock is too soft.
My shock positioning is #2 hole on front shock tower and B Position on arm
Rear #3 on tower and B on arm.
All my roll centers are stock. I would bring yours all back to stock and then fine tune the car after making the changes mentioned. The C-hubs and steering block will bring the steering alive. The chassis has to much kick up so they are really needed.

Take pro drivers setups with a grain of salt. They run on a completely different track then you(large and high traction) and drive very different. Their cars are built for response and speed and are very hard to drive consistent to an average driver. Softening and raise your car will make it less responsive but give you more roll/traction.

Zero everything out(stock) except for the things I mentioned then try the car and go from there with the fine tuning. My car drives very well with that set up. Last year I was able to get my fast lap on a unprepped track within 0.2 seconds of desoto jrs fast lap (prepped) of the weekend. Granted my car is a few mph quicker then his on the back straight and we run different tires but it was still a proud accomplishment for me lol.

Other setting for my car is
1.25 degrees front toe
2 degree front camber 3 degrees in the rear.
With a 16T pinion on a 2650 it's going to give your car a lot of low end torque so make sure your current limiter is set low. I run a 20T and have mine at 50% and I should be lower. You should be no more then 30-40 for the current limiter and not to much drag brake if you running any at all.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:30 PM   #383
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Ok ill try all that I'm tired of fighting this car I can barely keep up with front runners even though this car is a rocket ship on the straight. Thanks for the help this should fix a lot of issues I hadn't thought about the kick up being the issue but that explains why I couldn't get both ends of the car balanced at the same time .
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:48 PM   #384
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No problem. The car will feel like another animal especially with the C-hubs and Steering blocks after u get use to the car then try all the more fine tune stuff to your liking.
Let me know how it works out. Good luck
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:09 PM   #385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltron989 View Post
No problem. The car will feel like another animal especially with the C-hubs and Steering blocks after u get use to the car then try all the more fine tune stuff to your liking.
Let me know how it works out. Good luck
Does it matter if the c hubs say they are for the 811 buggy or do I need the truggy do you have apart number? The ones I found are 600136
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:13 PM   #386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby61 View Post
Does it matter if the c hubs say they are for the 811 buggy or do I need the truggy do you have apart number? The ones I found are 600136
I found it you told me last year I just never spent the money
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:39 AM   #387
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Steering arm issue -

Have everything in there and bolted up. I'm running an Associated XP1015 servo.

When I try and go both ways to full lock, its looking like I have more left turn than I do right turn. I get about 3/4 of the way and then its as if I'm fighting through the servo saver. THis is by hand, not using the transmitter yet. Just seems like I should have full throw since the servo itself has plenty of movement left, but its binding up somewhere.

I have the 4-3-2 spacers in and I've checked to make sure arm is clearancing the plastic.

Anyone have this issue? Tried searching for "steering" and didn't come up with anything.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:44 AM   #388
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Which hop-up parts are a must have for this kit? Just received my kit and don't want to start before I have everything I need ;-)
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Old 04-16-2014, 01:02 PM   #389
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Originally Posted by MarcEnMilo View Post
Which hop-up parts are a must have for this kit? Just received my kit and don't want to start before I have everything I need ;-)
I know there are more and im just ordering some so cant say personally how they help but some of the ones I have that seem to be must have parts are

hard servo saver spring
aluminum servo horn (you'll need the serpent specific one)
and a few shock springs seems like the red and yellow (yellow comes with the kit I believe)

and im being told the 10* c hubs and 0* steering knuckles are must have to counteract the chassis kick up.
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:34 AM   #390
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10* c hubs and 0* steering knuckles would be the first upgrade I would do as they will pay for themselves in tire wear alone! Prior to adding them I would only get a day or so out of a set of sweeps, now I get around 2-3 race days on a set. Rest of the upgrades can be done slowly.

I am using Paolo's set up from the nitro section but with a higher ride height and softer rear sway bar and really like the way it feels. Right now I've got 300k center diff oil but am going to try 500k one day soon.
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