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Old 04-01-2014, 06:22 PM   #361
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Default Serpent Cobra Sport GT Electric Ready to Race

Just arrived in the USA, Serpent Cobra Sport GT Electric Ready to Race!

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Serpent Cobra GT-E-1.gte.rtr.jpg   Serpent Cobra GT-E-2.gte.rtr.jpg   Serpent Cobra GT-E-3.gte.rtr.jpg  
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:56 AM   #362
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Just arrived in the USA, Serpent Cobra Sport GT Electric Ready to Race!

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Who's got them??
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Old 04-03-2014, 05:54 PM   #363
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Was thinking of converting my nitro Serpent GT to electric. Anybody what parts I would have to purchase?
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:03 AM   #364
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Was thinking of converting my nitro Serpent GT to electric. Anybody what parts I would have to purchase?
chassis SER600445
Battery and electronics trays Ser600436
Motor mount & Center diff holder Ser600446
Center diff ser600324
Then center drive shafts. Stock nitro rear center drive shaft seems to be the same as the center front drive shaft for the electric so u would just need a new rear center shaft for the electric car Ser600102
Front and rear chassis braces.
Servo horn and linkage

Buying everything retail would cost around $350
You could save about $125 buying everything on ebay from RCwaffle for $225
He also sells used parts then you could save more money
Go on ebay and search "seller:rc-waffle serpent 811"

Or u could go with a RCMonster conversion kit
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:41 PM   #365
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Alright, this is going to be slightly strange question for most of you, but there is a reason for it, hahaha.

What is the standard toe-in that comes with the car? What options are available using the inserts?

What do the number designation that is on the rear hangers stand for? The std, 2, 3, 2.5-4.5 ?

I haven't been able to find a chart for all the insert options for the Cobra GTe for the rear carriers. On my serpent 1/10 buggy, there is the chart for what everything equals.

Overall, what I'm trying to accomplish is figure out a way to get the right side to either 0 toe in.

I'm using this car converted to run on a dirt oval for an 1/8th scale late model class and since its the oval, we use alot of rear steer with the toe-in.

I have the car coming so haven't seen it in person, but tried searching the downloads/setups/options/etc... and read through all the pages on here. I know its a little off compared to most of the other questions, but figured this is the best place to ask, haha
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:38 PM   #366
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Alright, this is going to be slightly strange question for most of you, but there is a reason for it, hahaha.

What is the standard toe-in that comes with the car? What options are available using the inserts?

What do the number designation that is on the rear hangers stand for? The std, 2, 3, 2.5-4.5 ?

I haven't been able to find a chart for all the insert options for the Cobra GTe for the rear carriers. On my serpent 1/10 buggy, there is the chart for what everything equals.

Overall, what I'm trying to accomplish is figure out a way to get the right side to either 0 toe in.

I'm using this car converted to run on a dirt oval for an 1/8th scale late model class and since its the oval, we use alot of rear steer with the toe-in.

I have the car coming so haven't seen it in person, but tried searching the downloads/setups/options/etc... and read through all the pages on here. I know its a little off compared to most of the other questions, but figured this is the best place to ask, haha
The #6 inserts in the rear toe in plate will give 3 deg total toe in. That insert has the hole centered. The #5 insert is offset and gives + or - 0.5 deg toe in change from 3 deg. So if the hole is offset to the inside, you get 2.5 deg toe in, total. The #4 insert is offset a little more and gives + or - 1 deg toe in change from 3 deg. Offset to the inside and you get 2 deg total toe in. If you only offset the insert on one side, you get half the total change in toe in. I don't know of any way to get 0 deg toe in or toe out on the rear.
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:16 PM   #367
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OK,

So its 1.5* PER side.

If I change the insert on the right side to the #4, I'd have 1.5* on the left and then 1* on the right side correct?

I have a set of aftermarket rear arms that have adjustments at the hub of -3 to +3 on each side so that should help.

also, I've been trying to find the spring dimensions to see if our other aftermarket springs from other 1/8 cars can work. Does anyone have the length and I.D. of the included springs? Thanks again!

Last edited by Crawlin; 04-06-2014 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 04-12-2014, 12:27 AM   #368
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Which would be better for just speedruns? This serpent or the Ofna X3-GT
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:05 AM   #369
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[QUOTE=MarcEnMilo;13178154]Which would be better for just speedruns? This serpent or the Ofna X3-
Is the x3 a 360mm wheelbase?? If so I would think the longer wheelbase would be more stable at very high speeds. I had a gtv it liked straight line speed the serpent likes corners.
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:48 AM   #370
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I am wondering if this can be upgraded to 8s...
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:22 AM   #371
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Did anyone have any issues with build quality?

I've put together and taken apart the diff cases multiple times. Used the shims to make sure the ring gear wasn't binding on the pinion gear. Each time, I get to buttoning the cases together and it binds up the whole diff. This is front AND rear. I know the bearings are sitting properly in the spaces. The two cap head screws at the bottom aren't tight and show a 2-3mm space in the case.

Have any of you used spacers to spread the diff case apart a bit for free rotation? Does it just "break in" after use?
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:15 AM   #372
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Originally Posted by Crawlin View Post
Did anyone have any issues with build quality?

I've put together and taken apart the diff cases multiple times. Used the shims to make sure the ring gear wasn't binding on the pinion gear. Each time, I get to buttoning the cases together and it binds up the whole diff. This is front AND rear. I know the bearings are sitting properly in the spaces. The two cap head screws at the bottom aren't tight and show a 2-3mm space in the case.

Have any of you used spacers to spread the diff case apart a bit for free rotation? Does it just "break in" after use?
It's the three screws inside the diff that hold the pinion bearing in you have to grind the head down on the on on the ring gear side or just leave it out that's what most do when you tighten the casing the ring gear rubs the head of that one screw
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:55 AM   #373
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Originally Posted by Crawlin View Post
Did anyone have any issues with build quality?

I've put together and taken apart the diff cases multiple times. Used the shims to make sure the ring gear wasn't binding on the pinion gear. Each time, I get to buttoning the cases together and it binds up the whole diff. This is front AND rear. I know the bearings are sitting properly in the spaces. The two cap head screws at the bottom aren't tight and show a 2-3mm space in the case.

Have any of you used spacers to spread the diff case apart a bit for free rotation? Does it just "break in" after use?
1mm Spacers between the diffs bottom 2 screws were needed on both my GT and my buggy. I also used diff shim on opposite of ring side and removed 1 pinion bearing screw on the ring side. With out the spacer on the diff case it was impossible for me to get a smooth diff. Running it won't break it in, it will remain Notchy.(I tried).
Not sure why serpent hasn't corrected this problem. My kits were bought over a year apart and the only difference I see is they switched the screws that hold the diffs pinion bearing to a low profile black screw but does not solve the problem.
Seems to be a problem in the diff case it's self or roundness of ring gear because the mesh(with out modification to the diff case) would be great for 3/4 of a full rotation and then bind up for the rest of the turn and free back up and repeat.
You could keep the diff case screws a little loose to free up the bind but I prefer to just add the shim and not worry about the case moving again
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Last edited by Voltron989; 04-13-2014 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 04-13-2014, 10:05 AM   #374
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Just went through and removed the screws and wow what a difference. Glad these forums exist, haha
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:14 AM   #375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcEnMilo View Post
Which would be better for just speedruns? This serpent or the Ofna X3-GT
I would go for the car you can get the cheapest parts for. Don't see why you can't run 8 cell if your speedo can handle it?
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