FLAT OUT

Are there any open ended ball cups that fit the TCXX, I hate having to use pliers on the camber link ball cups every time I want to add/remove shims to change roll centres. I know I can use a sharp blade to cut the top off the TCXX ball cups but this seems a bit gash to me, I would rather have proper ones for the job

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

Don't bother with the open-ended ones - they're finicky to get the fit right (at least on the TC6, when I had one of those for a year). Use your body reamer to create a hole. It has absolutely no detrimental effect on the cups. I've done this for years, and I've never had a ball-cup pop off.

To remove, you simply use your screwdriver to remove the screw. This also preserves the tightness of the cup, whereas if you pop off the cup with pliers, it will stretch over time.

ShaunMac

+1 to adding the access hole on top of the ballcups. Been doing it since the O.G. Cyclone days. I use a small bit to drill out the holes. Great way of keepin' it tight!

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I could be wrong, but I think I've used Yokomo ball cups in the past since they have the hole already in there.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

ali_g:

I have found this car is really sensitive to changes in droop. If I have to much droop, the car will drive really well, but just roll all over the place no matter what you do and feel super STUCK in the middle of the corner.

You might try reducing the amount of droop your car has, but it is really hard for me to say anything without seeing the entire setup of the car. That mid corner efficiency while not killing tires is basically what everyone is after, and it takes work. That's usually when your car setup is "balanced" and optimal for the conditions.

Kellen:

That specific track is very high bite from what I hear. Fred and Hiro would know more than myself about setup specifics for that track. I'm sure one of them will pop on here really soon. If you end up having any general setup questions, always feel free to ask on here .

-Korey

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

unless the ball studs changed between the TCX and TCXX - i've uses losi ones on mine (A6017)... these are the ends from the Losi JRXS chassis, i got the part number from the JRXS Type R manual

they are a little shorter then the stock ones, so you might need to you a longer turnbuckle (I can't remember and my car is packed up at the moment) - i know I definitely had to use a longer turnbuckle for the steering links

they also take out some of the minor slop that's in the stock ball cups

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Thanks to Advil for the set up help yesterday. Put the car 2nd on the grid and finished in that position in the main. I need the TCXX just for the motor mounting alone. The TCX is a pain to change pinions on. Next time I'm signing up as Korey again

Juan Aveytia

Start with the manual set up. Usually if the bite is real high. Stay with shock oils between 30w to 35w with standard shock pistons. And play with the shock angles. Good starting point for droop is 6 front and 5 rear. silver/silver or pink/silver. lateley alot of people have been running 1 degree of camber in front a nd 2 in the rear. This should get you in the ball park

Advil

iTrader: (19)

Kellen Guthrie

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! I talked to hiro a lot yesterday he's an awesome guy. Never raced onroad before and I have two months to prepare for reedy... this should be interesting.

ali_g

iTrader: (7)

care to share your setup?

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I'll get it on a set up sheet and posted up on here.

rbalint

Yokomo BM-206 Plastic Rod End Part is what we use.

FLAT OUT

Aren't these off the B-Max ?

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

For whatever reason (bad driving, bad luck, agressive driving, etc), I had a lot of breakage issues with the TC, TCX, and the TCXX. There were two issues that I found:

1. The front axles protruded slightly beyond the wheel rims, so if you were too close to the boards you could snag an axle. Generally speaking, one or more of three things could break: the arm, the c-hub, or the steering knuckle. Shaving down the axel a bit reduces this risk, but also increases the difficulty in shimming the front end wider (as a tuning option). This worked, but didn't completely solve my issue.

2. The rigidity of the arm mounting system. Unlike the Associated and XRay cars (and others, I'm sure), the blocks on the TC* cars are mounted directly to the chassis. This makes the suspension very unforgiving to hits - plastic will break before aluminum will, so when you have an on-corner impact, the arms will take most of the force, and break. This gets expensive after a while.

I finally decided to solve this issue. A friend at the track had an RP bumper for his Tamiya that protected the front of the car with a rigid barrier in addition to the foam bumper. I constructed the same thing for my TCXX's - since I've made these bumpers, I've had one failure (and it was with an already-cracked arm).

I've attached a picture of what I've made. They're constructed from PVC (which means they're flexible up/down, but very rigid front-back. They protect the front wheels and arms, and only add 15g of weight to the front of the car.

If there's enough interest, I may decide to start making these. I haven't determined a price, but when you consider that a set of arms is $10, if this bumper saves one or two arms, it's paid for itself.

If you're a consistent A-Main driver, then these are not for you - they do add a bit of weight past the front axle, and they do look a bit goofy. However, if you experience breakage every now and then, it may be worth aquiring one of these, or even making your own.

Any help to protect the breakable parts on this car are well worth it, especially considering the current parts supply issues.