7LikesHot Bodies TCXX
01-01-2013, 08:59 PM
#631
Goots,
Now that I've seen your setup, I can suggest a few things.
Personally, the setup looks as if it should change direction very quickly. Others have mentioned shortening your camber links and that is good advise, but I am worried the setup of the car being too far outside it's normal operating "happy zone" if you have your current setup combined with the shorter links.
I would suggest going to a more conventional roll center setup by using lowering all your suspension blocks 0.5mm, and possibly going in one hole on the shock towers. This combined with the shorter camber link should change direction very fast. Maybe even try slightly stiffer springs.
-Korey
Now that I've seen your setup, I can suggest a few things.
Personally, the setup looks as if it should change direction very quickly. Others have mentioned shortening your camber links and that is good advise, but I am worried the setup of the car being too far outside it's normal operating "happy zone" if you have your current setup combined with the shorter links.
I would suggest going to a more conventional roll center setup by using lowering all your suspension blocks 0.5mm, and possibly going in one hole on the shock towers. This combined with the shorter camber link should change direction very fast. Maybe even try slightly stiffer springs.
-Korey
01-01-2013, 09:34 PM
#632
Sup goots, I have been messing with my rear down stops with good effects, fronts don't react to do much. I believe highering the rear loses some rear traction. Mess with them at all? Any inputs on messing with the downstops?
What kind of setup changes do you TCXX racers actually do when the grip gets higher throughout the day?
My car is usually good in the morning and afternoon. But late afternoon when the track cools down and grip goes up my car is really planted and doesnt want to turn. Quick setting changes I normally do is either change rear toe blocks or stand up the rear shock 1 hole.
Does anyone have any advice for other quick changes to cope with track conditions.
My car is usually good in the morning and afternoon. But late afternoon when the track cools down and grip goes up my car is really planted and doesnt want to turn. Quick setting changes I normally do is either change rear toe blocks or stand up the rear shock 1 hole.
Does anyone have any advice for other quick changes to cope with track conditions.
Last edited by peteyo; 01-01-2013 at 10:02 PM.
01-01-2013, 09:35 PM
#633
Goots,
Now that I've seen your setup, I can suggest a few things.
Personally, the setup looks as if it should change direction very quickly. Others have mentioned shortening your camber links and that is good advise, but I am worried the setup of the car being too far outside it's normal operating "happy zone" if you have your current setup combined with the shorter links.
I would suggest going to a more conventional roll center setup by using lowering all your suspension blocks 0.5mm, and possibly going in one hole on the shock towers. This combined with the shorter camber link should change direction very fast. Maybe even try slightly stiffer springs.
-Korey
Now that I've seen your setup, I can suggest a few things.
Personally, the setup looks as if it should change direction very quickly. Others have mentioned shortening your camber links and that is good advise, but I am worried the setup of the car being too far outside it's normal operating "happy zone" if you have your current setup combined with the shorter links.
I would suggest going to a more conventional roll center setup by using lowering all your suspension blocks 0.5mm, and possibly going in one hole on the shock towers. This combined with the shorter camber link should change direction very fast. Maybe even try slightly stiffer springs.
-Korey
See bold - especially with #1 position on the front a-arm.
01-01-2013, 11:40 PM
#634
Gold front pushed a little much. Tried silver then pink springs. Pink springs was what I was looking for. Now that we are going a different direction on the track I run at, I wanted the springs to act a little stiffer without actually changing them. That's why I moved to the 1 position.
Im sure the "happy zone" of the car will change from track to track. I think what makes our track unique is we have banking sweepers that goes uphill and downhill. So its kinda hard to look and compare setup sheets.
Im sure the "happy zone" of the car will change from track to track. I think what makes our track unique is we have banking sweepers that goes uphill and downhill. So its kinda hard to look and compare setup sheets.
01-02-2013, 04:34 AM
#635
Gold front pushed a little much. Tried silver then pink springs. Pink springs was what I was looking for. Now that we are going a different direction on the track I run at, I wanted the springs to act a little stiffer without actually changing them. That's why I moved to the 1 position.
Im sure the "happy zone" of the car will change from track to track. I think what makes our track unique is we have banking sweepers that goes uphill and downhill. So its kinda hard to look and compare setup sheets.
Im sure the "happy zone" of the car will change from track to track. I think what makes our track unique is we have banking sweepers that goes uphill and downhill. So its kinda hard to look and compare setup sheets.
-Korey
01-02-2013, 06:21 AM
#636
Tech Master
Hey Juan,
1.) 44mm in length. While the old car used 44mm in the rear, and the cyclone used 44mm as well.. These have a smaller cross pin (2mm, just like Tamiya). Make sure to use the current driveshaft bones with the TCXX. If you have some spares around of the older stuff, you can change to the older spool cups, and use the older blades to convert the car over I think.
2.) Tamiya rear hub carriers are a useful tuning aid. When using the outer hole on the hub carrier, it falls right in between the standard mounting hols on the HB hub carrier.
1.) 44mm in length. While the old car used 44mm in the rear, and the cyclone used 44mm as well.. These have a smaller cross pin (2mm, just like Tamiya). Make sure to use the current driveshaft bones with the TCXX. If you have some spares around of the older stuff, you can change to the older spool cups, and use the older blades to convert the car over I think.
2.) Tamiya rear hub carriers are a useful tuning aid. When using the outer hole on the hub carrier, it falls right in between the standard mounting hols on the HB hub carrier.
01-02-2013, 07:22 AM
#637
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01-08-2013, 09:42 AM
#638
Tech Addict
Gearing to get max acceleration/topspeed
Hey guys at our local track Yokomo guys are giving hard time to Team Associated cars even though they have the same drive ratio and using same pinion / spur they accelerate much faster. So it has to be some sort of different setup in the drive train.
I was looking at their car and reminded me that the TCXX kit came with 18t, 19t & 20t gears that fit in between the spur. Stock is 20T like thier's
Why are those gears exactly?
Thanks
I was looking at their car and reminded me that the TCXX kit came with 18t, 19t & 20t gears that fit in between the spur. Stock is 20T like thier's
Why are those gears exactly?
Thanks
01-08-2013, 10:21 AM
#639
No, it can also be the condition of the batteries and motor. Those two would have more of an effect than the difference between two belt driven cars. Not all 17.5 (or any other wind) motors are created equal... Even if they were running the same motor and batteries, then you need to take a look at the setting of the mechanical motor timing assuming they are all running "blinky".
01-08-2013, 12:16 PM
#640
Tech Addict
No, it can also be the condition of the batteries and motor. Those two would have more of an effect than the difference between two belt driven cars. Not all 17.5 (or any other wind) motors are created equal... Even if they were running the same motor and batteries, then you need to take a look at the setting of the mechanical motor timing assuming they are all running "blinky".
Its a Speed Passion Competition V3 - 10.5 with the Cirtix Stock Club Race Esc
Batteries setup almost eveyone runs Thunder Power.
So it must be coming from the car!
01-08-2013, 02:12 PM
#642
You need to try different ratio's to figure out what works best for you since not all cars have the same ratio. Even though you all might run the same batteries they are all in different conditions which will be a factor with the overall power of the car. You can use the different sized pulleys to achieve different drive train ratios. But the short of it is that you need to figure what gearing works best for you on any track.
01-09-2013, 03:16 AM
#644
And I've also had good results in the race ...
01-09-2013, 01:05 PM
#645
