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Old 10-17-2013, 03:25 AM   #1381
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Where can I find a Front Oneway kit? it seems to be discontinued everywhere!
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:06 PM   #1382
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I have a quick 17.5 blinky gearing question. I know a FDR around 4.0 is a basic starting point but is it better to achieve this ratio through a big spur and pinion (like 105/51) or a smaller spur and a moderate sized pinion (like 92/45)? I believe that I read earlier in the thread that if a spur is too small, it will interfere with access to the motor screw. Is there a point where the gearing won't fit on the car?
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:50 PM   #1383
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Originally Posted by kawi650 View Post
I have a quick 17.5 blinky gearing question. I know a FDR around 4.0 is a basic starting point but is it better to achieve this ratio through a big spur and pinion (like 105/51) or a smaller spur and a moderate sized pinion (like 92/45)? I believe that I read earlier in the thread that if a spur is too small, it will interfere with access to the motor screw. Is there a point where the gearing won't fit on the car?
I run a 96 spur. Covers my 17.5 and 13.5 fdr ranges. Does not block the motor mount screws either
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:02 PM   #1384
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Hello Hiro, there are no news regarding the new option ...?

Hi AGNO,

We are hoping to get everything ready by middle of December.
Thank you.
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:37 AM   #1385
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Originally Posted by Lutz View Post
What's the matter with the stock shock bladders?
They push up in the centre allowing air in, by putting a bit of fuel tube or an o ring I am hoping to keep the bladder in position for longer.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:39 AM   #1386
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How can the bladders push up?
Do you mean when you're building the shocks?
I push the shock shaft in as far as possible and pull them 3mm out again. Then i place the bladder on the body and push it in with a 3mm imbus to push the oil out that is too much in the body. Normaly the bladder sits perfect in the body. Then i can put on the shock cap and everything is smooth without rebound and air.
At least when you've drilled a 1mm hole in the shock cap ;-)
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:29 PM   #1387
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Hi AGNO,

We are hoping to get everything ready by middle of December.
Thank you.
Thanks for the reply
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:36 AM   #1388
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Originally Posted by Lutz View Post
How can the bladders push up?
Do you mean when you're building the shocks?
I push the shock shaft in as far as possible and pull them 3mm out again. Then i place the bladder on the body and push it in with a 3mm imbus to push the oil out that is too much in the body. Normaly the bladder sits perfect in the body. Then i can put on the shock cap and everything is smooth without rebound and air.
At least when you've drilled a 1mm hole in the shock cap ;-)
Find the centre of it gets pushed up after awhile.... had a race meet last night and shocks still seem fine at the moment. So the fuel tube seems to have fixed it, otherwise I will try another brand bladder.
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Old 10-20-2013, 02:26 PM   #1389
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Find the centre of it gets pushed up after awhile.... had a race meet last night and shocks still seem fine at the moment. So the fuel tube seems to have fixed it, otherwise I will try another brand bladder.
is air getting in the shocks every run? how often do you rebuild shocks?
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:16 PM   #1390
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hey everyone, been reading the posts and gotta say thx for all the tips. I have been racing onroad for quite sometime and Im familiar with the HB/HPI brand, i have a quick question. Just bought the tcxx and wish to know what is the measurement for the steering arms to have 0 toe in in the front?
Thx,
Eric
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:34 PM   #1391
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
is air getting in the shocks every run? how often do you rebuild shocks?
The car is only three meets old and from the first meet I ran with it i had to rebuild the shocks once during the meet as the cap came loose and lost some oil. And after the 2nd meet I changed the oil over as they had air in them again.
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:07 PM   #1392
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Originally Posted by KLANDERMAN View Post
hey everyone, been reading the posts and gotta say thx for all the tips. I have been racing onroad for quite sometime and Im familiar with the HB/HPI brand, i have a quick question. Just bought the tcxx and wish to know what is the measurement for the steering arms to have 0 toe in in the front?
Thx,
Eric
As long as you run the same numbered block (e.g., 1.5 FF & 1.5 FR) then there won't be any arm sweep (toe-out) by way of the suspension mounts.

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The car is only three meets old and from the first meet I ran with it i had to rebuild the shocks once during the meet as the cap came loose and lost some oil. And after the 2nd meet I changed the oil over as they had air in them again.
Be sure you are fully tightening down the cap all the way and not just stop when you feel resistence while tightening it down. There shouldn't be any gap between the cap and the shock body. As for needing to rebuild the shocks after your 1st race, drivers have different techniques and use different tools for rebuilding their shocks and thus it could be due to the specific process you use. I can tell you that it's not uncommon to have to refresh shocks between race days due to the different variables that affect a shock's condition.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:56 AM   #1393
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Hi,
Which chassis are you all running and in which conditions?
I know there is the std 2.5mm chassis, the hb option 2.25mm;
Then different raceberry and geiger/franke chassis...
Which one is the way to go?
I run the std one and everything feels fine except for the times. ..
Running on carpet with lrp cpx tyres and 10.5 motor...
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:24 PM   #1394
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Originally Posted by Lutz View Post
Hi,
Which chassis are you all running and in which conditions?
I know there is the std 2.5mm chassis, the hb option 2.25mm;
Then different raceberry and geiger/franke chassis...
Which one is the way to go?
I run the std one and everything feels fine except for the times. ..
Running on carpet with lrp cpx tyres and 10.5 motor...
I believe chassis selection is a personal preference and driving style dependant almost as much as shock springs are. In my area we only run HB manufactured chassis and most of us run the 2.25mm offering. If you are serious about finding out which is better for you, then you would need to try all that you mentioned...if available...to know which works with your driving style. I don't think just changing the chasssis only will improve your times, yes sure you may get lucky and improve lap times right away but you have to consider the way you car is working overall, your setup may be deficient in some other way or it could be the manner in which you are driving your car too. There is no shorcut to success in figuring out how to decrease your laptimes. It's going to take some hard work.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:07 PM   #1395
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Any news on the contents of the upcoming performance upgrade pack?

A new motor/layshaft mount design that isn't attached to the topdeck would be nice. That way all the top TC chassis' would be EXACTLY the same!!! lol
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