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Old 01-01-2013, 09:59 PM   #631
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Goots,

Now that I've seen your setup, I can suggest a few things.

Personally, the setup looks as if it should change direction very quickly. Others have mentioned shortening your camber links and that is good advise, but I am worried the setup of the car being too far outside it's normal operating "happy zone" if you have your current setup combined with the shorter links.

I would suggest going to a more conventional roll center setup by using lowering all your suspension blocks 0.5mm, and possibly going in one hole on the shock towers. This combined with the shorter camber link should change direction very fast. Maybe even try slightly stiffer springs.

-Korey
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:34 PM   #632
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Sup goots, I have been messing with my rear down stops with good effects, fronts don't react to do much. I believe highering the rear loses some rear traction. Mess with them at all? Any inputs on messing with the downstops?

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Originally Posted by goots View Post
What kind of setup changes do you TCXX racers actually do when the grip gets higher throughout the day?

My car is usually good in the morning and afternoon. But late afternoon when the track cools down and grip goes up my car is really planted and doesnt want to turn. Quick setting changes I normally do is either change rear toe blocks or stand up the rear shock 1 hole.

Does anyone have any advice for other quick changes to cope with track conditions.

Last edited by peteyo; 01-01-2013 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:35 PM   #633
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Goots,

Now that I've seen your setup, I can suggest a few things.

Personally, the setup looks as if it should change direction very quickly. Others have mentioned shortening your camber links and that is good advise, but I am worried the setup of the car being too far outside it's normal operating "happy zone" if you have your current setup combined with the shorter links.

I would suggest going to a more conventional roll center setup by using lowering all your suspension blocks 0.5mm, and possibly going in one hole on the shock towers. This combined with the shorter camber link should change direction very fast. Maybe even try slightly stiffer springs.

-Korey
x2

See bold - especially with #1 position on the front a-arm.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:40 AM   #634
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x2

See bold - especially with #1 position on the front a-arm.
Gold front pushed a little much. Tried silver then pink springs. Pink springs was what I was looking for. Now that we are going a different direction on the track I run at, I wanted the springs to act a little stiffer without actually changing them. That's why I moved to the 1 position.

Im sure the "happy zone" of the car will change from track to track. I think what makes our track unique is we have banking sweepers that goes uphill and downhill. So its kinda hard to look and compare setup sheets.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:34 AM   #635
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
Gold front pushed a little much. Tried silver then pink springs. Pink springs was what I was looking for. Now that we are going a different direction on the track I run at, I wanted the springs to act a little stiffer without actually changing them. That's why I moved to the 1 position.

Im sure the "happy zone" of the car will change from track to track. I think what makes our track unique is we have banking sweepers that goes uphill and downhill. So its kinda hard to look and compare setup sheets.
I agree. Your track does look unique, but I always feel when a large change like the camber link should be done with some others to take it a few steps back. Just allows your to sneak up to your optimum setup rather than blow way past it is all. Let us know what happens!

-Korey
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:21 AM   #636
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Hey Juan,

1.) 44mm in length. While the old car used 44mm in the rear, and the cyclone used 44mm as well.. These have a smaller cross pin (2mm, just like Tamiya). Make sure to use the current driveshaft bones with the TCXX. If you have some spares around of the older stuff, you can change to the older spool cups, and use the older blades to convert the car over I think.

2.) Tamiya rear hub carriers are a useful tuning aid. When using the outer hole on the hub carrier, it falls right in between the standard mounting hols on the HB hub carrier.
Thanks Korey. I plan on fitting my DCJ's from one of my Tamiya cars on the front. They're 44mm, so they should drop right in. And i'll keep some tamiya uprights in my pit bag. I'm receiving the car on Friday. Haven't used a different brand in years. Thanks again
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:22 AM   #637
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
Thanks Korey. I plan on fitting my DCJ's from one of my Tamiya cars on the front. They're 44mm, so they should drop right in. And i'll keep some tamiya uprights in my pit bag. I'm receiving the car on Friday. Haven't used a different brand in years. Thanks again
Nice! You might have to modify the Chub for a little extra clearance. I have not fitted those particular DCJs to the car so I'm not really sure. Let us know what you find though. Art is a good source for info up there if you need any immediate help as well .
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:42 AM   #638
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Default Gearing to get max acceleration/topspeed

Hey guys at our local track Yokomo guys are giving hard time to Team Associated cars even though they have the same drive ratio and using same pinion / spur they accelerate much faster. So it has to be some sort of different setup in the drive train.

I was looking at their car and reminded me that the TCXX kit came with 18t, 19t & 20t gears that fit in between the spur. Stock is 20T like thier's

Why are those gears exactly?

Thanks
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:21 AM   #639
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Hey guys at our local track Yokomo guys are giving hard time to Team Associated cars even though they have the same drive ratio and using same pinion / spur they accelerate much faster. So it has to be some sort of different setup in the drive train...

Thanks
No, it can also be the condition of the batteries and motor. Those two would have more of an effect than the difference between two belt driven cars. Not all 17.5 (or any other wind) motors are created equal... Even if they were running the same motor and batteries, then you need to take a look at the setting of the mechanical motor timing assuming they are all running "blinky".
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:16 PM   #640
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No, it can also be the condition of the batteries and motor. Those two would have more of an effect than the difference between two belt driven cars. Not all 17.5 (or any other wind) motors are created equal... Even if they were running the same motor and batteries, then you need to take a look at the setting of the mechanical motor timing assuming they are all running "blinky".
We all run same ESC and Motor

Its a Speed Passion Competition V3 - 10.5 with the Cirtix Stock Club Race Esc

Batteries setup almost eveyone runs Thunder Power.

So it must be coming from the car!
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:29 PM   #641
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
We all run same ESC and Motor

Its a Speed Passion Competition V3 - 10.5 with the Cirtix Stock Club Race Esc

Batteries setup almost eveyone runs Thunder Power.

So it must be coming from the car!
Most likely the drivers
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:12 PM   #642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
We all run same ESC and Motor

Its a Speed Passion Competition V3 - 10.5 with the Cirtix Stock Club Race Esc

Batteries setup almost eveyone runs Thunder Power.

So it must be coming from the car!
You need to try different ratio's to figure out what works best for you since not all cars have the same ratio. Even though you all might run the same batteries they are all in different conditions which will be a factor with the overall power of the car. You can use the different sized pulleys to achieve different drive train ratios. But the short of it is that you need to figure what gearing works best for you on any track.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:50 AM   #643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
We all run same ESC and Motor

Its a Speed Passion Competition V3 - 10.5 with the Cirtix Stock Club Race Esc

Batteries setup almost eveyone runs Thunder Power.

So it must be coming from the car!
It could be from the car. When it has to do something with cornerspeed. If the other care has a higher cornerspeed, it will also be faster out of the corner. Maybe you should post your set-up here?

Regards Robert
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:16 AM   #644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
We all run same ESC and Motor

Its a Speed Passion Competition V3 - 10.5 with the Cirtix Stock Club Race Esc

Batteries setup almost eveyone runs Thunder Power.

So it must be coming from the car!
In our club we use all spec motor 13.5 Speed ​​Passion V3, standard timing 10 , minimum FDR 4.5, ESC NO timing ROAR, I never noticed differences in acceleration and top speed between my TCXX and other models.

And I've also had good results in the race ...
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:05 PM   #645
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In our club we use all spec motor 13.5 Speed ​​Passion V3, standard timing 10 , minimum FDR 4.5, ESC NO timing ROAR, I never noticed differences in acceleration and top speed between my TCXX and other models.

And I've also had good results in the race ...
It's because your car is "TCXYZ". Special factory edition!!
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