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Old 12-24-2012, 09:23 AM   #586
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Indeed there is something very strange on the CSO item, it seems to have three in-line holes on the bottom face and that's absolutely not what we have on the HB chassis...

and nowhere to mount the "battery stopping apparatus" with the screw and the three shims... very disappointed indeed. as far as i'm concerned, CSO improperly advertised this item in a blatant fashion. It is not designed for the TCXX as stated.
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:38 PM   #587
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That's what I first supposed... Just take the Xray version and paint it purple!

The wait is not over guys...
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:20 PM   #588
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That's what I first supposed... Just take the Xray version and paint it purple!

The wait is not over guys...
It looks a lot like the BD7 one too.
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Old 12-25-2012, 03:08 AM   #589
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What can I do to protect the motor as the terrain is more abrasive than a rough sand paper. I saw yoko guys have got some sort of carbon frame.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:44 PM   #590
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What can I do to protect the motor as the terrain is more abrasive than a rough sand paper. I saw yoko guys have got some sort of carbon frame.
Hey Speed6,

To be perfectly honest, there isn't a whole lot you can do. If you wanted, you could retrofit one of those carbon shields, but all they do is partially protect the motor from impact. The key word is partially... an impact that would heavy damage a motor will also heavily damage the chassis, or motor mount among other components of the car.

The best thing you could do is raise your ride height slightly, but realistically you're going to get a little scraping on the motor almost no matter what from body roll.

-Korey
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:48 AM   #591
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Do the tamiya DCJ's work on this car without modification? Also what suspension blocks are recommended in your pit box. Buying my first HB's chassis.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:41 AM   #592
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Korey, Fred, etc. Have you tried the alternate solid chassis? I know you guys run carpet with the car and higher grip. Just curiuos on results or findings.
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:12 PM   #593
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
Do the tamiya DCJ's work on this car without modification? Also what suspension blocks are recommended in your pit box. Buying my first HB's chassis.
The c hub (castor blocks need to have a small amount of material removed - shaved off) to fit the Tamiya DCJ and the inner bearing needs to the thinner type (10x5x3 instead of the kit one).

Depending on the tracks and class you might want to get the following blocks:

Frt - 1.0 split type and 1.0 solid

Rr - 2.5 solid type

HTH.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:14 PM   #594
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Thanks, so I'm familiar with tamiya suspension blocks. How does HB's work
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:43 AM   #595
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Thanks, so I'm familiar with tamiya suspension blocks. How does HB's work
Hi Juan,

Are you really getting one? Give me a call on my cell when you get a chance.

Art
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:01 AM   #596
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Hi Juan,

Are you really getting one? Give me a call on my cell when you get a chance.

Art
Don't have your number. Email it to me aveytia@gmail.com
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:08 AM   #597
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Korey, Fred, etc. Have you tried the alternate solid chassis? I know you guys run carpet with the car and higher grip. Just curiuos on results or findings.
I haven't had the chance to give the alternate chassis a go yet. By design, I would expect it to offer better stability in higher traction conditions though. I'll let everyone know when I end up trying it .
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:16 PM   #598
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Korey, Fred, etc. Have you tried the alternate solid chassis? I know you guys run carpet with the car and higher grip. Just curiuos on results or findings.
Let me preface this by first saying that all I run is modified so the advice I give may not apply to stock class racing. Usually I like a stiffer chassis because I like way it responds to my driving style. But I have been running the optional chassis since the IIC with the kit top deck. Usually when I run a softer chassis and top deck it doesn't have enough mid-corner response but running the 2.25mm chassis with the 2.5 top deck presents a good balance and response for me. I have been running this combination on carpet and asphalt and I've noticed that when the grip ranges from low to higher my car doesn't go through a "swing" where I have to modify the setup much to compensate with the different grip levels and it remains stable and easy to drive.
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:36 PM   #599
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Let me preface this by first saying that all I run is modified so the advice I give may not apply to stock class racing. Usually I like a stiffer chassis because I like way it responds to my driving style. But I have been running the optional chassis since the IIC with the kit top deck. Usually when I run a softer chassis and top deck it doesn't have enough mid-corner response but running the 2.25mm chassis with the 2.5 top deck presents a good balance and response for me. I have been running this combination on carpet and asphalt and I've noticed that when the grip ranges from low to higher my car doesn't go through a "swing" where I have to modify the setup much to compensate with the different grip levels and it remains stable and easy to drive.
Thats what I want to hear. Thanks Fred

Fred when you first ran the stock chassis when you had just that right amount traction to balance fast and traction rolling did you find that the chassis helps?
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Last edited by NolanP; 12-29-2012 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:07 AM   #600
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
That's what I first supposed... Just take the Xray version and paint it purple!

The wait is not over guys...
can i fit?
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