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Old 10-28-2012, 08:22 PM   #391
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Noob question here. What is the benefit/effect of cutting 5mm off the end of the sway bars? I'm currently building my TCXX and I'd rather not do this unless it's needed.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:47 PM   #392
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Noob question here. What is the benefit/effect of cutting 5mm off the end of the sway bars? I'm currently building my TCXX and I'd rather not do this unless it's needed.
The bars were built around different aluminum sway bar end links that have a tendency to fail. You have to take off 5mm so the plastic ends shown in the manual line up on center correctly with the arm.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:57 PM   #393
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The bars were built around different aluminum sway bar end links that have a tendency to fail. You have to take off 5mm so the plastic ends shown in the manual line up on center correctly with the arm.
Thanks Craig. One more question. I see 3 different "copper" 1.2 mm sway bars in the kit, 2 shorter ones and 1 longer one. Which ones should I use?
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:26 PM   #394
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So whats the ideal weight range of shock oil when using the following ?

2 hole
3 hole
4 hole
6 hole
depends on the track and track temperature. 30wt-40wt is what I use with 3hole 1.1

Only way to find out is to try the different oils and find what is good for you.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:51 AM   #395
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Originally Posted by Yukie View Post
Thanks Craig. One more question. I see 3 different "copper" 1.2 mm sway bars in the kit, 2 shorter ones and 1 longer one. Which ones should I use?
HB provide you with enough bars to cover any scenario, narrow only fit the front but you can use narrow or wide in the rear.
The kit setup is to run a narrow bar at the front and a wide one at the rear. Off the top of my head I think it's a silver front and wide copper rear.
Also don't forget to run the wide rear bar you need to screw a ball stud into the front of the rear arm in one of the shock mount holes.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:14 PM   #396
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HB provide you with enough bars to cover any scenario, narrow only fit the front but you can use narrow or wide in the rear.
The kit setup is to run a narrow bar at the front and a wide one at the rear. Off the top of my head I think it's a silver front and wide copper rear.
Also don't forget to run the wide rear bar you need to screw a ball stud into the front of the rear arm in one of the shock mount holes.
Thank you Cyclone.

What is the difference between using the wider or the narrower bar in the rear? Is there a difference in terms of performance or ease of driving?

Also, as far as screwing a ball stud into the rear arm for the wider bar. The manual doesn't specify this, nor does it specify what length of sway bar to use at all. It only refers to the thickness of the bars. The build in the manual calls for 1.4 mm black in front and 1.2 copper in rear, but the standard set-up in the back of the manual calls for 1.2 front and rear, with no mention of wide or narrow in the back. So tbh, I'm a little confused. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Last edited by Yukie; 10-29-2012 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:10 AM   #397
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Build manual page 21 step f-04 right hand side of the diagram shows the ball studs being installed into the wishbone and the wide roll bar being used.

I know in testing last year the team felt the car was more stable with a wider roll bar in the rear.
I've only run the wide one on my TCXX but the car is more stable than my TCX which only had the narrow roll bars.
I'd suggest starting with wide and only use narrow if you need to loosen up the rear to gain steering.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:16 AM   #398
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Build manual page 21 step f-04 right hand side of the diagram shows the ball studs being installed into the wishbone and the wide roll bar being used.

I know in testing last year the team felt the car was more stable with a wider roll bar in the rear.
I've only run the wide one on my TCXX but the car is more stable than my TCX which only had the narrow roll bars.
I'd suggest starting with wide and only use narrow if you need to loosen up the rear to gain steering.
Yup never mind, I see it. Not sure why I missed that. Thanks a lot for the help.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:32 AM   #399
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If the new axle and diff drive cups on the XX are smaller. Most of the older cyclone, cylcone TC, and TCX axles cant be used?

So if in the future, racers decide to run dual HB gear diffs, the HB 44mm DCJ cannot be used with the smaller drive cups of the new HB gear diff for the front.

Someone correct me if im wrong
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:39 AM   #400
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@ Goots

http://www.hpiracing.co.uk/piw.php?partNo=68289
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:48 AM   #401
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
If the new axle and diff drive cups on the XX are smaller. Most of the older cyclone, cylcone TC, and TCX axles cant be used?

So if in the future, racers decide to run dual HB gear diffs, the HB 44mm DCJ cannot be used with the smaller drive cups of the new HB gear diff for the front.

Someone correct me if im wrong
The cups on new gear diff XX are the same of the old diff (ball or Spec.R) change the blade for new axle(have small pin), the axle shafts are interchangeable, it only needs the right blade.

For front, the new cups optional # 68289 that do not need blade, only work with the new axle shafts, but I think a good tool(file) might be helpful to use the old drive shafts...
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:52 AM   #402
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thanks for the info. I wish HB USA can update their website so I can see these options and spare parts.

So the rear and front axles have different pin sizes, thats not really smart. The part number you gave me is for the thinner non DCJ axles being used for the front geardiff. The HB 44mm DCJ pins are bigger than that? Are you saying the Stock rear gear diff can be used with all older axles?

Can I get "two HB gear diffs" and run the setup I want ( HB gear diff front w/ HB DCJ and HB gear diff rear w/ pro4 44mm steel axles) with blades and no fitment issues?
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:00 AM   #403
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The cups on new gear diff XX are the same of the old diff (ball or Spec.R) change the blade for new axle(have small pin), the axle shafts are interchangeable, it only needs the right blade.

For front, the new cups optional # 68289 that do not need blade, only work with the new axle shafts, but I think a good tool(file) might be helpful to use the old drive shafts...
Thank you. Thats the answer I needed.

Also are spares out yet to purchase online or at a local hobby shop yet in the USA?
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:15 AM   #404
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Sorry, had my head on sideways earlier lol.

Yeah the "old" blade will make that work and that option part is for the new front alu shaft.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:56 AM   #405
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Oddly enough I have been shimming my motor our 2mm on occasion when I wanted my car to roll more to give me more grip. I also take the shims out for when I race in high bite conditions. As the TCX motor mount is an option and fits on the TCXX I would say that most conditions would favor the need for more roll (more grip). For those of us fortunate enough to race in high bite conditions regularly, a motor mount change is a tuning option available to us.

No big deal really...at least to me it isn't.

Hey I need to move my motor out on my TCX. I thought about shims, but then thought I might need a special big shim so the motor retains full contact with the motor mount so it would still dissipate heat as good as stock setup. What shims are you using please?
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