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Old 10-21-2012, 01:31 PM   #361
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Thank you Nolan for your responses. It's much appreciated.

I edited my post to add one more noob question, lol.

"One more noob question...sorry.

How much shock oil should I put in the shocks? How far up should I fill the shock body?"
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:38 PM   #362
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Originally Posted by Yukie View Post
Thank you Nolan for your responses. It's much appreciated.

I edited my post to add one more noob question, lol.

"One more noob question...sorry.

How much shock oil should I put in the shocks? How far up should I fill the shock body?"
Once again personally I make sure its filled to the top then I run the piston up and down getting any air bubbles above the piston by going to the bottom at the end. I let the shock sit for atleast 5 minutes and verify with a strong light that there are zero air bubbles in the shock. Then I put the cap on. Slowly tighten the cap if you get excess oil coming out just with it off. Then once the cap is tight enough for the oil not to leak out i hold the shock at a 45 degree angle and slowly start to tighten the cap. I also slowly move the piston to the top of the shock with tightening to attempt to get very little rebound.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:27 PM   #363
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Again, thanks Nolan. Appreciate the help. I found a couple nice tutorials floating around the web as well on dealing with shock builds, but it's nice to know that people here are willing to take a little time out to help a complete new comer to the hobby.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:30 PM   #364
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Again, thanks Nolan. Appreciate the help. I found a couple nice tutorials floating around the web as well on dealing with shock builds, but it's nice to know that people here are willing to take a little time out to help a complete new comer to the hobby.
Yeah not a problem. Welcome to the hobby and if you have questions ask.
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:18 PM   #365
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Is there any disadvantage to running the POM out drives? I only run outdoors and tend not to hit things
I would also like to pros and con of running the either out drive

Thanks
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:27 AM   #366
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Another few quick questions.

What is the effect of adding washers under the sway bar mounting ball studs? and why are there wider sway bars included in the box?

Also what effect does adding washers under the front steering knuckle ball studs have?

Finally I notice most team drivers run 2mm behind the wheel hub on the back and 2mm in front of the wishbone on the front. The wheelbase remains the same but everything is shifted back. What is the reason for this?

Thanks.
From what I can gather adding washers under the sway bar ball studs increases the effect of the sway bar. Is this correct?

Also the washers under the steering ball studs are for bump steer. Does anyone know how you set this correctly? It looks like drivers are using between 0.5mm-1.5mm.

Am I right in thinking the wheelbase changes affect weight transfer. Rather than overall wheel base it seems you can have more or less weight over say the front wheels by moving the wishbones back or forward. Does it have any other effect?

Last edited by dvaid852456; 10-22-2012 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:29 AM   #367
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Bump steer spacers would depend on the height of the wishbone, you'd probably want to add some if you used less spacers under the blocks.
You generally need to keep the track rod parallel with the wishbone but you can also use bump steer as a tuning option also.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:43 AM   #368
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Quote:
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Once again personally I make sure its filled to the top then I run the piston up and down getting any air bubbles above the piston by going to the bottom at the end. I let the shock sit for atleast 5 minutes and verify with a strong light that there are zero air bubbles in the shock. Then I put the cap on. Slowly tighten the cap if you get excess oil coming out just with it off. Then once the cap is tight enough for the oil not to leak out i hold the shock at a 45 degree angle and slowly start to tighten the cap. I also slowly move the piston to the top of the shock with tightening to attempt to get very little rebound.
I invested in the Ride shock air remover and it's great. You put your shock in the holder, put the lid on and suck all the air out with a pump. This creates a vaccumm and drags all the air out of the oil. You wait 30 seconds for all the air to rise to the top and then press the button. Hey presto 100% air free shocks in 30 seconds. Sometimes you need to do it twice but it really helps you to get super smooth shocks.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:40 AM   #369
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When measuring the length of the shocks and setting to 64mm as per the instructions. Do you measure from the very top to the bottom or from centre hole at the top to centre hole at the bottom?
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:45 PM   #370
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Originally Posted by tessty71 View Post
I would also like to pros and con of running the either out drive

Thanks
I haven't weighed them yet to know how different they are but assuming the steel versions are a bit heavier then running them up front not only makes them a bit more resistent to pin damage and from hitting things the weight would take a bit of steering away while the POM's would do just the opposite.

Quote:
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Another few quick questions.

What is the effect of adding washers under the sway bar mounting ball studs? and why are there wider sway bars included in the box?
I use different shims to fine tune the amount of chassis roll. I use a wider bar in the rear to fine tune the amount of overall traction. In higher bite situations or if the track produces sufficient grip than I run a wider bar in the rear to negate some of the overall traction to produce more cornerspeed.
Also what effect does adding washers under the front steering knuckle ball studs have?
Increasing the amount of bumpsteer shims will produce more mid corner steering by causing the nose of the car to roll more but you will lose initial steering so you will need to make additional changes to compensate for this.
Finally I notice most team drivers run 2mm behind the wheel hub on the back and 2mm in front of the wishbone on the front. The wheelbase remains the same but everything is shifted back. What is the reason for this?
Running the 2mm shim behind the rear hub will generate more forward gip.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvaid852456 View Post
I invested in the Ride shock air remover and it's great. You put your shock in the holder, put the lid on and suck all the air out with a pump. This creates a vaccumm and drags all the air out of the oil. You wait 30 seconds for all the air to rise to the top and then press the button. Hey presto 100% air free shocks in 30 seconds. Sometimes you need to do it twice but it really helps you to get super smooth shocks.
This is a great and necessary investment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvaid852456 View Post
When measuring the length of the shocks and setting to 64mm as per the instructions. Do you measure from the very top to the bottom or from centre hole at the top to centre hole at the bottom?
I always to mine top to bottom with the shock fully extended. Once you find the length that works for you all that matters is that whatever method you use you continue to consistently use that method for measurement.
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Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 10-22-2012 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:06 AM   #371
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Thank you Fred for the replies to my many questions!
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:14 AM   #372
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Default Battery ideal weight?

Hey people, my TCXX is on its way!

Could you be so kind and suggest weight of batt since i can't decide if i should go for the Thunder Power 6600 - (367g) or 5000 - (280g).

Difference in weight is 87 grams

On the other hands as for electronics i will be installing the following

KO Servo Pure TEN the short sized one
Futaba receiver of the 4PKS (quite small)
SP V3 10.5 brushless
SP CLUB ESC

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:32 AM   #373
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At around 315g the HPI Plazma Pro battery seems very well balanced with the lipo stoppers built as per kit instructions.
I don't know if that's by luck or design, but it's true
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:05 AM   #374
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Has anyone tried shoty lipos in the TCXX. I was experimenting with them in my TC and found the setup needed quite a bit of changing to eliminate the understeer.

The weight was 1318g which meant I could add 35g to balance it and get it up to 1350g (the UK min weight).
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:30 PM   #375
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Hows it going Fred.

I'm gona be running your Tamiya USA setup this coming weekend. I'll be running Solaris HD compound tires, with 2000 Losi in gear diff. This track is real abbrasive, rough, tight, med bite. Any setup changes you would reccommend also trying?

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