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Old 10-20-2012, 03:33 AM   #346
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Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice. I have just built my new TCXX and there is a clicking from the front spool when checking the drive train. I have checked all the obvious things such as bearings, catching points but can't track down what is causing it? It's not spool chatter as it does it with just the spool in the bulk heads and no drive shafts connected?

It seems to happen only with the steel outdrives, the POM are super smooth with no clicks. From what I can see it seems to click when the outdrive slot passes from horizontal to vertical if you see what I mean.

Has anyone had this problem and know the cure? It surely can't be right?
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:41 AM   #347
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Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice. I have just built my new TCXX and there is a clicking from the front spool when checking the drive train. I have checked all the obvious things such as bearings, catching points but can't track down what is causing it? It's not spool chatter as it does it with just the spool in the bulk heads and no drive shafts connected?

It seems to happen only with the steel outdrives, the POM are super smooth with no clicks. From what I can see it seems to click when the outdrive slot passes from horizontal to vertical if you see what I mean.

Has anyone had this problem and know the cure? It surely can't be right?
Could it be the metal pin that holds the steel outdrive onto the spool, because its metal on metal any pin movement will make a noise, but when you use the pom outdrives its metal on plastic so it quiet. If it is this then dont worry about it.
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:53 AM   #348
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Could it be the metal pin that holds the steel outdrive onto the spool, because its metal on metal any pin movement will make a noise, but when you use the pom outdrives its metal on plastic so it quiet. If it is this then dont worry about it.
Thanks for the reply. I think the POM out drives definitely reduce the problem as it's metal on plastic but the bump/click just doesn't seem present when using the POM ones.

The metal out drives have a definite rise and fall as they rotate, like they aren't true.
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:28 AM   #349
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...The metal out drives have a definite rise and fall as they rotate, like they aren't true.
It's not that they aren't true. If you take the spool out of your car you will notice that the out drives move freely around. It was purposely designed that way to reduce chatter which is a issue with every car on the market that uses standard driveshafts with a spool. If the spool cups were tight then the chatter from the rotating motion would be more apparent. So have the cups loose helps to dissipate the energy.
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:37 PM   #350
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Hello, this is my first touring car and I'm actually completely new to the hobby for all intents and purposes, so please bear with me.

I'm still building my TCXX and I just got to step E02 and everything is fine other than the fact that I cannot find part HB70742, the aluminum hex hubs. I've looked in every bag and I'm almost 100% sure that my kit is missing them. Are they buried in some tiny bag containing parts for a later step and am I just not seeing them?

If they are indeed missing should I call HPI's customer service?

Thanks.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:12 PM   #351
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Originally Posted by Yukie View Post
Hello, this is my first touring car and I'm actually completely new to the hobby for all intents and purposes, so please bear with me.

I'm still building my TCXX and I just got to step E02 and everything is fine other than the fact that I cannot find part HB70742, the aluminum hex hubs. I've looked in every bag and I'm almost 100% sure that my kit is missing them. Are they buried in some tiny bag containing parts for a later step and am I just not seeing them?

If they are indeed missing should I call HPI's customer service?

Thanks.
Yes by all means if you can't find them please give a call to customer service Monday morning.

New customer service hours to better serve you!

Monday - Thursday:7:30AM - 5:15PM PST
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:31 PM   #352
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Thanks Fred! Much appreciated. BTW we've talked very briefly at TQracing in Chino, Ca.

I asked if your car was a TCXX and I asked why people seemed to use the dish wheels instead of spoked, lol.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:37 PM   #353
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Thanks Fred! Much appreciated. BTW we've talked very briefly at TQracing in Chino, Ca.

I asked if your car was a TCXX and I asked why people seemed to use the dish wheels instead of spoked, lol.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:11 PM   #354
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Sweet, I remember you
Lol, awesome. I plan on getting out there as soon as I finish building my TCXX. People that frequent TQ racing all seem to be friendly and helpful. It's really helped me to get comfortable with the hobby thus far.

Hopefully I don't embarrass myself too much on the track, lol.

Thanks again Fred.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:32 PM   #355
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It's not that they aren't true. If you take the spool out of your car you will notice that the out drives move freely around. It was purposely designed that way to reduce chatter which is a issue with every car on the market that uses standard driveshafts with a spool. If the spool cups were tight then the chatter from the rotating motion would be more apparent. So have the cups loose helps to dissipate the energy.
Thanks for replying, As long as the vibration is normal I'm happy. Is there any dissadvantage to running the POM outdrives? I only run outdoors and tend not to hit things
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:38 AM   #356
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Another few quick questions.

What is the effect of adding washers under the sway bar mounting ball studs? and why are there wider sway bars included in the box?

Also what effect does adding washers under the front steering knuckle ball studs have?

Finally I notice most team drivers run 2mm behind the wheel hub on the back and 2mm in front of the wishbone on the front. The wheelbase remains the same but everything is shifted back. What is the reason for this?

Thanks.

Last edited by dvaid852456; 10-21-2012 at 02:46 AM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:38 PM   #357
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Total noobie question. I'm still building my TCXX and I've gotten to the step where you put together the turnbuckles. How long should I make them initially?
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:42 PM   #358
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Total noobie question. I'm still building my TCXX and I've gotten to the step where you put together the turnbuckles. How long should I make them initially?
Personally I set them long. I then install them on the car then once I have the tires on or the car hooked up to my setup station I then set them so they are at the desired length for camber, toe, and to center steering. With toe aka for the turnbuckles for your steering just make sure they are equal length.
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:57 PM   #359
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More noob questions.

The manual asks for the 1.4 mm sway bar in the front, but the standard set up sheet in the back of the manual calls for 1.2. Should I go with the manual or the set up sheet?

Also the hotbodies expert build tips suggest you take 5mm off the end of the sway bar. Why is this? Wouldn't this change the ultimate length of the sway bar and thus defeat the purpose of it?... or is the thickness of the sway bar what determines its effectiveness?

One more noob question...sorry.

How much shock oil should I put in the shocks? How far up should I fill the shock body?

Last edited by Yukie; 10-21-2012 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:27 PM   #360
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More noob questions.

The manual asks for the 1.4 mm sway bar in the front, but the standard set up sheet in the back of the manual calls for 1.2. Should I go with the manual or the set up sheet?

Also the hotbodies expert build tips suggest you take 5mm off the end of the sway bar. Why is this? Wouldn't this change the ultimate length of the sway bar and thus defeat the purpose of it?... or is the thickness of the sway bar what determines its effectiveness?
I would start with the 1.2 sway bar up front my self.

Try to install the sway without taking of the 5mm.
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