wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

You can go to http://www.box.com and create a free account. Then you can upload large document files to your Box.com account and post up a link for those files you choose to share.

FLAT OUT

https://www.box.com/s/stijxni2alxxdmqzm8dj

Fred if you can take a look and let me know your thoughts I would be very interested in your setup ideas

FLAT OUT

Just noticed my setup sheet has the rear hub spacers the wrong way round !! It should have both shims in front of the rear hub to make the wheel base longer lol my bad

goots

iTrader: (20)

just let us know when HB USA website is updated. I want just a few parts to update my car to a full blown tcxx

cyclonetog

I'm not being funny but I'd change almost everything on that setup, if I tried to run that on my TCX it'd be undriveable.

I'd go back to silver springs all round, shock tower pos 2 front 4 rear.
I see rebound has vanished off the sheet, 3mm is a good starting point on carpet if you aren't on that already.
I'd consider trying short camber links though I see different results with that at different tracks so just try it's not a given.
If you've measured the droop as per the sheet (to centre of the pin) there's way too much, about 9mm all round is a good starting point.
A thicker real roll bar would add stability.
I'm still undecided on wheelbase, but you're way off what most people seem to run. At the front running all the spacers in front of the arm seems to work well and at the rear 2mm behind the arm and 2mm behind the hub is quite common.
I've never seen anybody run the 2nd hole on the 3 hole knuckle, the 3rd hole should calm the car down a lot.
The TypeC shell is awesome if the car is working well, but it has a hell of a lot of front end so I'd recommend using a Speed6 until you've made the car easier to drive.

FLAT OUT

Thanks for your thoughts, Some interesting ideas. I had massive trouble sorting the front steering throw, I couldnt get any more than 15 degrees of steering using the 3rd hole on the steering knuckle ? I ran out of time trying to sort it out so just went with the 2nd hole to get me going. I started with the kit silver springs and the car was way to aggressive, but like you said this could also be down to using a subaru shell and the 2nd hole on the knuckle.

cyclonetog

Trust me the silvers all round are much safer than gold blue. The effect you felt was probably just the bite coming up on the track, I've tested it over and over and over again.
To get more throw use the upper hole in the servo saver, if you haven't done that already. (that in itself would make the car more twitchy so use some negative expo to counter it).

The shock positions will make a huge change also, it may seem backwards but leaning the fronts in makes the car turn in much smother, and standing the rears up gives more bite.

FLAT OUT

You have a PM

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

Will do.

Adrian please see the attached recommendation. This setup is a bit more balanced. I figure by the laptimes that the track is bigger than our US style carpet tracks so if the car doesn't transition fast enough then go back to MM 450 cSt.

FLAT OUT

Thanks Fred, I will take this setup with me to the next round, ive got a few things to try now. The track is big even by our standards. Do you run the standard HPI/ HB servo saver than comes in the kit. I have been using an Xray servo saver. When I used the hb servo saver I couldnt get full steering lock when using the 3rd hole in the front hubs ?? not sure why. When the car is on the Hudy setup gauges how much left/right steering throw should I be getting ?

Stefan-Hpi Uk

With the standard servo saver you can make about 25 - 27 degrees of lock if you use one of the top corner holes on the servo saver, but make sure you rotate the saver and also sub trim if needed so that that position is then at 90 degrees to the link in neutral , thats with position 3 on the hub

Stef

FLAT OUT

Thanks for the info Stef, The kit came with 2 servo savers I think, I tried the one with 2 holes on it. Could you post a picture of the servo saver and link on your car if poss as I cant see how setting the saver at 90 degrees to the link can work ? I always find setting the steering throw a problem on any car. Also is the kit servo saver any good ?? I used my xray saver last weekend

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

How many mm in shims are you running between the drag link ball stud and servo saver? When you rotate the servo saver to full lock on either side the link needs to be a close to parallel as possible with the front arms. We run servo horns because they react faster but are more dangerous to run because there is a higher risk of damaging the servo gears.

Texco

iTrader: (8)

Hi Fred,

Just a quick question, your setup for the speedtech grandPrix you used the #68480 2 piece pivot block R/F at the front of your car can you sub that with the #75156 1 piece pivot block?

thanks for your time mate!

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

Hey Texco,

Yes but it has to be modded to fit the FR. On the previous car drivers used to use the 1.5 FF block modded for the FR.