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Old 05-23-2016, 02:26 PM   #2086
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Originally Posted by dizzy1 View Post
To float the top deck on the older HB car, you find some scrap 1.5m graphite and made to thin short bars that go from the front to the rear screw. One on each side. Counter sink the holes and use flat head screws. This held the bearings down. Then you raised the top deck with 2m spacers. Just needed it high enough that the top deck didn't touch the bars you made. This allowed the top deck to float without attaching at the spur location. Wish I had a pic but this is Hiro and many ran it back in the day.
You can see it here, the photo angles aren't perfect though
http://ets.redrc.net/2013/06/chassis-focus-andy-moore/

2nd photo
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:11 PM   #2087
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You can see it here, the photo angles aren't perfect though
http://ets.redrc.net/2013/06/chassis-focus-andy-moore/

2nd photo
I checked the Petit RC database and didin't find an Andy Moore setup similar to this (WRT the center drive pully).

FMI what is the point of the floating top plate? From my way of thinking the F to R flexibilty only inhibits weight transfer to the front under deceleration (like pushing on a rope), thus taking away steering going into a corner (however, the write up says Andy is doing other mods to get more steering). Under power the floating top plate as shown would have little affect as the weight transfer to the rear since it would be like pulling on a rope - very little give.

I wait to be enlightened
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:32 PM   #2088
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
I checked the Petit RC database and didin't find an Andy Moore setup similar to this (WRT the center drive pully).

FMI what is the point of the floating top plate? From my way of thinking the F to R flexibilty only inhibits weight transfer to the front under deceleration (like pushing on a rope), thus taking away steering going into a corner (however, the write up says Andy is doing other mods to get more steering). Under power the floating top plate as shown would have little affect as the weight transfer to the rear since it would be like pulling on a rope - very little give.

I wait to be enlightened
As I remember it, this mod allowed more torsional flex at the back of the car. Win the screws in, the rear of the chassis is much stiffer.
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:49 AM   #2089
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As I remember it, this mod allowed more torsional flex at the back of the car. Win the screws in, the rear of the chassis is much stiffer.
That makes sense. Back in the day people were putting rubber grumlets between the top-deck and the bulk head to get more torsional flex in the chassis. However, Airwave specifically mentioned front to back flex, which upon rethinking the problem; with no screws in the center pully holes and the top plate shimmed up from the bulk head, the F/R weight transfer should be dampened both on and off power by allowing the top plate to flex as the weight transfers in either direction - sort of like a softer center spring in a pan car.

Last edited by John Wallace2; 05-24-2016 at 03:03 AM.
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Old 05-24-2016, 03:31 AM   #2090
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You can see it here, the photo angles aren't perfect though
http://ets.redrc.net/2013/06/chassis-focus-andy-moore/

2nd photo
I remember these photo but never could find the setup sheet that went with them. However, I do remember that Andy had added a bulk head along the CL of the chassis just ahead of the center pully bearings, drilled a hole in the top plate and secured the top plate to the new bulk head with one screw instead of the 4 around the center drive pully. If you look closely you can see the extra button head screw ahead of the drive pully. In the second photo it is near the negative battery wire. I don't recall discussion about raising the top deck, but it certainly could be there.
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:21 AM   #2091
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Hello everybody, I'm looking for thick anti-roll bars. Thicker than the HB ones (1.6, 1.8 and 2.0). Has anybody already found and used such compatible anti-roll bars on a TCXX?
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:03 PM   #2092
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Well the new weight limits nearly killed my TCXX based cars - but not quite!!!

I removed the Arrowmax chassis from both the VTA and USGT cars, swapped VTA components with my USGT car, changed some connectors, went to a different lighter body (no more Camaro ) and I'm down to 1452 without body clips (including front diff and 6000 MAH battery). Completely ROAR and USVTA legal. Except for the ROAR regional here they are running VTA at 1350 so after the Regionals I may have a VTA car for sale! BTW it is mostly ChrisGT's setup.

Without the Arrowmax chassis, my USGT car started off at 1392 but with the change to 1350 I bought a 5000 mah shorty pack and added some weight to rebalance the car F/R and L/R and it now comes in at 1352 ready to race. Hope my scale is correct!

I must say I was concerned about using the shorty in USGT or 17.5 but after watching Cristian Tabush nearly beat Chris Adams (nat'l champ) in 1/10th modified this weekend at Austin using a 5000mah shorty pack, I no longer have those concerns - you just have to manage your motor timing and gearing.

Let's see $80 for a shorty battery or $500 to $800 for a new car. hmmm - My TCXXs still work pretty good!

Last edited by John Wallace2; 10-13-2016 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 10-16-2016, 05:41 PM   #2093
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Well the new weight limits nearly killed my TCXX based cars - but not quite!!!

I removed the Arrowmax chassis from both the VTA and USGT cars, swapped VTA components with my USGT car, changed some connectors, went to a different lighter body (no more Camaro ) and I'm down to 1452 without body clips (including front diff and 6000 MAH battery). Completely ROAR and USVTA legal. Except for the ROAR regional here they are running VTA at 1350 so after the Regionals I may have a VTA car for sale! BTW it is mostly ChrisGT's setup.

Without the Arrowmax chassis, my USGT car started off at 1392 but with the change to 1350 I bought a 5000 mah shorty pack and added some weight to rebalance the car F/R and L/R and it now comes in at 1352 ready to race. Hope my scale is correct!



I must say I was concerned about using the shorty in USGT or 17.5 but after watching Cristian Tabush nearly beat Chris Adams (nat'l champ) in 1/10th modified this weekend at Austin using a 5000mah shorty pack, I no longer have those concerns - you just have to manage your motor timing and gearing.

Let's see $80 for a shorty battery or $500 to $800 for a new car. hmmm - My TCXXs still work pretty good!
I ran the cars yesterday. My 25.5 TC car with a good driver (not me) ran a 17.6 lap after just a few laps with the car and he said he could have gone faster but for some of the transmitter settings. For comparison his 17.5 TC car, one of the better one in the area, with comparable tires was in the low 16s/high 15s - Not bad for a VTA legal motor and an old chassis!

I only ran against one other VTA car yesterday (test and tune day) but after some tweaking I got the lap times in my VTA car even faster than the 25.5TC despite hulling around an extra 100 grams. I have a few changes to make that should make the VTA car even faster. Now I'll go back and tweak the 25.5 some more and see what I can do to get it even better. Next I'll have to work on being a better driver!

Last edited by John Wallace2; 10-16-2016 at 05:53 PM.
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