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Old 04-11-2016, 02:01 PM   #2071
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I finally broke a C hub on my TCXX; first in years because I had a graphite C hub in this one instead of the aluminum hubs I usually run (they were bent). I did find one and only one set of TCXX C hubs (looks like the PRO 5 guys have bough out the country on C hubs that fit the PRO 5). Tower still has my Pro 5 soft C hubs on back order, which is now expected in late April -didn't specify what year).

With limited options for replacement C-hubs, I looked around and found some aluminum C hubs by Yeah racing. The ones for the HPI RS4 Sport3 look like the exact same C hubs I've been running in my TC and TCXXs, except these have bearings at the top and bottom instead of just the pivot bushing. Only mod that will be required (I hope) is to drill a hole for a set screw in the bottom. I'll let you know how the mod goes. PN RSS3-003OR Only draw back is that these are orange so they will standout on the purple TCXX. Yeah also makes aluminum bearing C hubs for various Tamiya cars.. I just didn't know which ones would fit the HPI/HP cars.

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Old 04-11-2016, 02:22 PM   #2072
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Default 25.5 TC

We've been playing with a 25.5 TC class around here (San Antonio and Austin) and I've been using my old TCXX based VTA car minus the heavy Arrowmax aluminum chassis. This class allows TC tires & bodies but requires the Novak VTA motor. I'm using CHRISGT's VTA setup (except I'm using HPI Blue springs & tweaked the roll centers somewhat for outdoors). The car comes in at around 1410 grams (weight limit is 1380) ready to race - I could make it lighter but I don't like breaking things!. The lap times for this class are just in between USGT and 17.5 TC. Amazingly quick since these are legal VTA motors! The TCXX is really incredible in this class. BTW medium asphalt parking lot.
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Old 04-17-2016, 03:38 AM   #2073
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I finally broke a C hub on my TCXX; first in years because I had a graphite C hub in this one instead of the aluminum hubs I usually run (they were bent). I did find one and only one set of TCXX C hubs (looks like the PRO 5 guys have bough out the country on C hubs that fit the PRO 5). Tower still has my Pro 5 soft C hubs on back order, which is now expected in late April -didn't specify what year).
http://jethobby.com/_shop/product/pr...ail.php?id=102
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:04 AM   #2074
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Thanks Have you used Jet Hobbies? I don't see where you specify how you want the parts shipped when you order the parts?
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:48 AM   #2075
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Default TCXX parts

i have some extra Chubs 4 degree ...i was the guy who bought out the Tower supply.

pm me if you want to buy some of them.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:16 AM   #2076
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Thanks Have you used Jet Hobbies? I don't see where you specify how you want the parts shipped when you order the parts?
Once logged you can specify the address... But last time I ordered I used Paypal and they probably used my Paypal address...
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:33 PM   #2077
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Once logged you can specify the address... But last time I ordered I used Paypal and they probably used my Paypal address...
Thanks
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:28 PM   #2078
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I love these cars, they look so good and handle amazingly!

I bought a lightly used TCXX with the 2014 upgrade package last year, used that for a season. Only recently sold it.
I liked it so much I went out and bought a new TCXX and ordered the new upgrade package for it. I have a load of parts too.

I'm not interested in a Pro 5 yet
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:47 PM   #2079
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Raced my TCXX for frist time last weekend
Very nice car. I should have got one as my 1st car and nothing else
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:17 PM   #2080
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I currently have 2 TCXXs and reluctantly have decided to sell one. The one I'm selling is my VTA car with ChrisGT's VTA setup with minor adaptations for asphalt. Ir is currently setup as a 25.5 TC with the stock TCXX chassis but comes with the arrowmax chassis, F/R diffs, VTA & USGT motors as well as VTA, USGT, and TC bodies, ORION battery, and assorted parts. PM me if you are interested.

PS Going to run it as a VTA car this weekend (~1460 grams our club has already switched to the new weight limits)

Last edited by John Wallace2; 05-20-2016 at 05:54 AM.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:50 AM   #2081
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Great car by the way, only two minor problems for me:
- The bumper CF plate design is totally wrong, it should touch the bulkhead to prevent the explosion during front crashes
- I can't find a way to properly immobilize the center axle bearings when I use 1mm shims under the upper deck...
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:50 AM   #2082
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Great car by the way, only two minor problems for me:
- The bumper CF plate design is totally wrong, it should touch the bulkhead to prevent the explosion during front crashes
- I can't find a way to properly immobilize the center axle bearings when I use 1mm shims under the upper deck...
I just use a foam battery spacer from a SCT between the bumper and the bulkhead. You're talking about the bearings on the drive pulleys, why not just attach shims to the top plate over the bearings to keep them in place, that's what I did with those bearings in my old TC? I don't shim the top plate; I use the TCX motor mounts (+3mm) and taking the top plate on/off to change gears/motors is enough of a pain as it is.
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:35 AM   #2083
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the point is that you want the flex to be from the front to the back without touching anything, so adding shims touching the bearings would be useless.

I also use the TCX motor mount, as I'm running quite light lipo.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:45 PM   #2084
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To float the top deck on the older HB car, you find some scrap 1.5m graphite and made to thin short bars that go from the front to the rear screw. One on each side. Counter sink the holes and use flat head screws. This held the bearings down. Then you raised the top deck with 2m spacers. Just needed it high enough that the top deck didn't touch the bars you made. This allowed the top deck to float without attaching at the spur location. Wish I had a pic but this is Hiro and many ran it back in the day.
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:03 PM   #2085
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the point is that you want the flex to be from the front to the back without touching anything, so adding shims touching the bearings would be useless.

I also use the TCX motor mount, as I'm running quite light lipo.
So I guess you are attaching the top plate at just the front and back with no screws in between? So why even bother with the top plate? I guess you could do as dizzy1 says and put a short thin scrap across the bearing to hold them in and then put the top deck over it. Until the recent VTA/USGT weight changes, I ran an arrowmax aluminum chassis and I really wasn't too concerned with chassis flex - it was really stiff and provided a very low CG.
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