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Old 04-08-2014, 08:08 PM   #1666
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The servo saver TCXX is great, the best on the market, precise, strong and durable, is composed of graphite.

The only alternative is to remove the servo saver and use a direct linkage, but the servo are not happy ...
Thanks all Was running my TCXX in the street and the stock servo saver seems good and centered both ways. Noticed Andy Moore is using a direct linkage, but I'm nowhere near that skilled so I tend to hit thing more often.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:46 PM   #1667
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You have to remember, Andy Moore runs on asphalt primarily with no boards to hit. If you run indoor carpet with boards, a quality servo saver is highly recommended
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:58 AM   #1668
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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
I use a Tamiya servo saver with a 3Racing aluminum arm works like a charm
Also great Tamiya with 3Racing alu arm, I use it on my other TCXX.
Some drivers have had centering problems with this servo saver, personally, I not have any problems, work well.

You must choose the right length of the arm, for carpet I prefer 16mm, 18mm for asphalt
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:58 PM   #1669
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Originally Posted by AGNO View Post
Also great Tamiya with 3Racing alu arm, I use it on my other TCXX.
Some drivers have had centering problems with this servo saver, personally, I not have any problems, work well.

You must choose the right length of the arm, for carpet I prefer 16mm, 18mm for asphalt
I've only ever had one issue with the Tamiya servo saver - but it was 6 hours into a 24hour enduro later realize it was the same servo saver we used for the previous year's enduro. so I guess you could say it has about 30 hours of continuous usage before it starts failing

so you're talking about 6-8 months worth of racing EVERY day - which most of us would never do before you'd have problems..

I have the 16mm and use it on both carpet and asphalt - seems to work well for me
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:04 PM   #1670
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When does the new update tcxx come out?
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:07 AM   #1671
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I asked the HPI team the very same question about TCX steering arms. I asked Stefan (he contributes on here), he told me it makes the car easier to drive. As I had a TCX I broke for spares, I used the steering arms on my TCXX. He was right!
Ok thx for info. But with wich spindle do you use the TCX arms?? The 3 straight holes or the V2 spinde?
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:19 AM   #1672
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Ok thx for info. But with wich spindle do you use the TCX arms?? The 3 straight holes or the V2 spinde?
I used the TCXX version 1 (3 holes in line) indoors, version 2 (3rd kinked outward) outdoors. The version 2 are great, but are very fragile. I raced at a event with Andy Moore, he broke one and commented the same thing!
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:57 AM   #1673
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Default TCXX SET UP SHEETs

Where do I find the latest TCXX setup sheets? Found a few (e.g. Feb 2014) here, some old ones on Petite RC; but what about the recent worlds warm up? Not all of us run 4.5 motors so are there setups for something like 13.5, 17.5 and or 21.5 that the other 98% of us use?
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:03 PM   #1674
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Sweet, I remember you
Fred the TCXX setup sheets shows a -1 and a -0.5 2 piece pivot block RF; however, I cannot find part number for those items. Are they team only parts or are they available to anyone?

Thanks
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:30 PM   #1675
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John Wallace, I believe those would be the +1 and +.5 mounted on the opposite sides of the car, creating the opposite effect.
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:12 PM   #1676
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John Wallace, I believe those would be the +1 and +.5 mounted on the opposite sides of the car, creating the opposite effect.
Are these pivot blocks to adjust the rear toe or the rear anti squat? I guess from your response it adjusts the rear toe. So using the -0.5 takes 1/2 degree of toe away. So with the 3 degree rear toe blocks and the -0.5 degree front rear pivot blocks I'll have 2.5 degrees of toe in in the rear.

Also I noticed in the latest setup sheets I've found that they have included the shock length (e.g., Andy Moore's is 64mm in the ones I have). In the off road world that is a measure of the droop and is measured with the suspension unweighted and from the center of the mounting screws (top and bottom). Is this the same with the TCXX and how does that relate to the droop setting on the setup sheet, which I must say doesn't seem to correlate with anything I know about RC cars?

Last edited by John Wallace2; 04-13-2014 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:24 PM   #1677
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Are these pivot blocks to adjust the rear toe or the rear anti squat? I guess from your response it adjusts the rear toe.
The different degree blocks are used to change rear toe-in or sweep in front. It changes the pin width also. You can have 3 degrees of toe-in, but have the inner hinge pins closer or farther apart. This alters how the car rolls over. Generally running narrower creates more chassis roll.

Rear anti-squat is adjusted by adding or removing shims under the pivot blocks.
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:40 AM   #1678
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Originally Posted by TC Travis View Post
I used the TCXX version 1 (3 holes in line) indoors, version 2 (3rd kinked outward) outdoors. The version 2 are great, but are very fragile. I raced at a event with Andy Moore, he broke one and commented the same thing!
Does anyone make the TCXX steering spindles out of something beside composite material? First thing I broke was the steering spindle and in the same place I broke all the other spindles on my TC before I found some aluminum ones. However, the ones I have are only two hole design and the arm is too short (i.e., they are missing that third hole) in the TCXX arms.
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:47 AM   #1679
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As of now, the v2 steering knuckles are a bit fragile. The yokomo bd7 knuckles are nearly identical and are durable.
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:37 AM   #1680
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is there any place online that has an editable setup sheet for the tcxx showing the split blocks?? the one I have aren't setup for that
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