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Old 01-31-2014, 07:18 PM   #1531
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Can someone tell me the difference between these three motor mounts and why would I use one over the other? I'm thinking of replacing the one in my original TCX since it's a PITA to change pinions gears and set motor mesh since I always have to stick the hex driver through the spur gear.

#68752 Heavy Duty Motor Mount Set
#68837 Motor Mount (original TCXX)
#68717 Motor Mount (original TCX)

What is "heavy duty" all about in the first one? It looks like it's an option part to the TCXX as shown in the hpiracing website.

The second part looks to be the standard TCXX part.

At first, I thought the 68752 is the original TCX motor mount. But looking at the TCX manual, the TCX original motor mount is a 68717.
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:32 PM   #1532
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Default 7075 aluminum alloy motor mount

#68752 is made of 7075 aluminum high strength. if you can afford it, put these on so you can tighten the screws without having to worry about stripping the holes from the steel screws. HPI also makes 7075 aluminum bulkheads also.
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:39 PM   #1533
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Default jj wang make a main at the snowbirds

jjwang won his last heat race to make it to the big show saturday at the snowbirds he was driving his new up todate tcxx with big bore shocks lower shock towers drive shaft etc
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:34 PM   #1534
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Hey guys, I need some advice...

I currently run this front end setup in my TCX:
HPI31420 HPI High Traction Suspension Arm Set
HBS67699 Hot Bodies 2.3mm x 44mm DCJ Drive Shaft Set
HBS68770 SOLID AXLE LONG CUP for 2.3 mm x 44mm Drive Shaft (POM/2pcs) PURPLE or
HBS68769 SOLID AXLE LONG CUP for 2.3mm x 44mm Drive Shaft (STEEL/2pcs)

The original suspension arm part# HBS67717 used to break all the time. This is why I replaced them with the HPI31420. I have NOT broken these yet over a 1 year+ period! I used to break at least 2 original arms over an 8 hour running day (typically 8 5000 mah battery packs = roughly 4 hours of actual run time with a 17.5 motor). I typically race around with a buddy of mine from the local hobby store from opening until close.

But now, the part that I break the most are the cups. I've tried the HBS68770 POM (plastic over metal) ones and also the HBS68769 steel ones shown above. Neither appear stronger than the other. During the same 8 hour day, it seems like I break 4 of them.

So, aside from not hitting the boards, do you guys have any suggestions on other parts that may be tougher? Also, I don't hit the boards much at all. But over 4 hours of actual driving time, everyone will hit something eventually.

So any suggestions on tougher parts? Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:52 AM   #1535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theclutch View Post
Hey guys, I need some advice...

I currently run this front end setup in my TCX:
HPI31420 HPI High Traction Suspension Arm Set
HBS67699 Hot Bodies 2.3mm x 44mm DCJ Drive Shaft Set
HBS68770 SOLID AXLE LONG CUP for 2.3 mm x 44mm Drive Shaft (POM/2pcs) PURPLE or
HBS68769 SOLID AXLE LONG CUP for 2.3mm x 44mm Drive Shaft (STEEL/2pcs)

The original suspension arm part# HBS67717 used to break all the time. This is why I replaced them with the HPI31420. I have NOT broken these yet over a 1 year+ period! I used to break at least 2 original arms over an 8 hour running day (typically 8 5000 mah battery packs = roughly 4 hours of actual run time with a 17.5 motor). I typically race around with a buddy of mine from the local hobby store from opening until close.

But now, the part that I break the most are the cups. I've tried the HBS68770 POM (plastic over metal) ones and also the HBS68769 steel ones shown above. Neither appear stronger than the other. During the same 8 hour day, it seems like I break 4 of them.

So, aside from not hitting the boards, do you guys have any suggestions on other parts that may be tougher? Also, I don't hit the boards much at all. But over 4 hours of actual driving time, everyone will hit something eventually.

So any suggestions on tougher parts? Thanks in advance.
I faced similar problems as you.
I have just changed to 46mm DCJ (tamiya style) and the original 68840 cups.
The 68840 cups looks stronger and pin of the longer DCJ will sits deeper in the cup, so hopefully the cup will not break that easily.
I am going to try them at a race tomorrow.

I am also using HPI31420 arms.
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:27 AM   #1536
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I run a Roche spool and Tamiya 46mm driveshafts, not broken the spool cups in over 2 years now running at least 4 runs per week

Quote:
Originally Posted by theclutch View Post
Hey guys, I need some advice...

I currently run this front end setup in my TCX:
HPI31420 HPI High Traction Suspension Arm Set
HBS67699 Hot Bodies 2.3mm x 44mm DCJ Drive Shaft Set
HBS68770 SOLID AXLE LONG CUP for 2.3 mm x 44mm Drive Shaft (POM/2pcs) PURPLE or
HBS68769 SOLID AXLE LONG CUP for 2.3mm x 44mm Drive Shaft (STEEL/2pcs)

The original suspension arm part# HBS67717 used to break all the time. This is why I replaced them with the HPI31420. I have NOT broken these yet over a 1 year+ period! I used to break at least 2 original arms over an 8 hour running day (typically 8 5000 mah battery packs = roughly 4 hours of actual run time with a 17.5 motor). I typically race around with a buddy of mine from the local hobby store from opening until close.

But now, the part that I break the most are the cups. I've tried the HBS68770 POM (plastic over metal) ones and also the HBS68769 steel ones shown above. Neither appear stronger than the other. During the same 8 hour day, it seems like I break 4 of them.

So, aside from not hitting the boards, do you guys have any suggestions on other parts that may be tougher? Also, I don't hit the boards much at all. But over 4 hours of actual driving time, everyone will hit something eventually.

So any suggestions on tougher parts? Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:13 AM   #1537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nipple View Post
I faced similar problems as you.
I have just changed to 46mm DCJ (tamiya style) and the original 68840 cups.
The 68840 cups looks stronger and pin of the longer DCJ will sits deeper in the cup, so hopefully the cup will not break that easily.
I am going to try them at a race tomorrow.

I am also using HPI31420 arms.
Can you give me a part number for these Tamiya DCJs? And I assume this is a direct fit with no modifications?
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:07 AM   #1538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theclutch View Post


Can you give me a part number for these Tamiya DCJs? And I assume this is a direct fit with no modifications?
You will need to trim the C hub, you can go to page 100, Chrisgt2 posted some nice photos on where to trim.

As for the DCJ, you need to get the following (not available in a set):
  • Tamiya 42218
  • Tamiya 42219
  • Tamiya 42221
  • Tamiya 42230

Last edited by Nipple; 02-08-2014 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:14 AM   #1539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nipple View Post
You will need to trim the C hub, you can go to page 100, Chrisgt2 posted some nice photos on where to trim.

As for the DCJ, you need to get the following (not available in a set):
  • Tamiya 42218
  • Tamiya 42219
  • Tamiya 42221
  • Tamiya 42230
Try Tamiya Part # 42216 Double Cardan Joint Shaft.

Use with TCXX long steel outdrives for 2mm.

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Old 02-08-2014, 10:18 PM   #1540
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Hi, I've been running 2 TCXs but have had some serious bad luck lapping traffic and have now 2 destroyed steering racks. Is there an upgrade available? I think I could pay around $130 for a full steering arm rack set if I can find one but there must be an alternative, hopefully stronger system available......right now my cars are done! Please help!! I thought running servo savers would hopefully avoid this, but they were hard hits......

Last edited by stubaxle; 02-08-2014 at 10:20 PM. Reason: adding info
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:44 AM   #1541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stubaxle View Post
Hi, I've been running 2 TCXs but have had some serious bad luck lapping traffic and have now 2 destroyed steering racks. Is there an upgrade available? I think I could pay around $130 for a full steering arm rack set if I can find one but there must be an alternative, hopefully stronger system available......right now my cars are done! Please help!! I thought running servo savers would hopefully avoid this, but they were hard hits......
What part of the steering actually breaks? Those are aluminum parts...so did those snap?
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:54 AM   #1542
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Run a servo saver.... A good stiff servo saver will still flex enough during impact to avoid breaking parts. Eventually you will break the metal gears in your servo without one. Some metal gear servos still use 1 plastic gear.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:13 AM   #1543
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Hi Clutch and Chris, I've broken the actual rack, the thinner part around one of the bearing, stretched another in the same place so that its unusable, broken now 2 posts and bent at leat one of the cranks, but sure it would be ideal if i could replace. After the first incident, where I snapped a post and stretched the rack, I used a kimborough servo saver on both cars, more as a steering saver than a servo save but apparently not enough....I use a 9551 futaba servo and a spektrum 6070, but might revert to the old K0 2123(?) as it has that plastic slave gear you mention Chris.

I see as an option you can use the TC style system, but can't find parts as yet. Does anyone have any experience of using this on a tcx/xx?

My only option right now is to buy 2 complete steering arm sets which seem to go for around $130, and I need 2!! I have old Pro 4 racks, which I've never broken in years of racing so might try to make something out of them, but obviously sterring is a very precise thing and would like to know if there are other options, or indded if that can be made to work.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:16 AM   #1544
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Are you using aluminum front steering knuckles??? The plastic parts should beak before damaging the rack
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:37 AM   #1545
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Yeah, I reverted to the alum knuckles, i had a screw back out of the plastics while 2nd in the amain, so decided to on the basis that I could threadlock it! i'm back to plastic now because this crash has actually broken that too.

I really need an alternative! I rarely broke parts on the pro4, never any steering parts, and we used 2x4s as track markers!!
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