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Old 01-26-2016, 10:54 AM   #826
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I picked up a used R5.2 for some light racing, and while I was giving it a once-over for dirt/damage/slop, I noticed that the aluminum part of the tube dampers is flared slightly. It looks like a repair was attempted as well, but that could just be from aluminum fatigue or something.

I don't really understand how the tubes could have sustained damage in this way, as the open ends are mounted inboard.

It's my first time racing 1/12th anyway, but is this something I should be concerned about?
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Old 01-26-2016, 11:17 AM   #827
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Originally Posted by Bracket View Post
I picked up a used R5.2 for some light racing, and while I was giving it a once-over for dirt/damage/slop, I noticed that the aluminum part of the tube dampers is flared slightly. It looks like a repair was attempted as well, but that could just be from aluminum fatigue or something.

I don't really understand how the tubes could have sustained damage in this way, as the open ends are mounted inboard.

It's my first time racing 1/12th anyway, but is this something I should be concerned about?
The tubes may have been damaged by hitting something and making the pod twist.
The aluminum tubes are $6 a pair, I would get new ones to be sure both side have equal dampening.
Also make sure the damper tube shaft part is not damaged or scratched.
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:07 PM   #828
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Really nice 12r5.2 in the for sale section.

NEW 12r5.2 w/t Tamale adjustable rear pod

Guy also has some other stuff for sale also
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Old 02-06-2016, 06:45 AM   #829
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I made a video on "How to polishing your kingpins". The kingpins used in the video were 12R5.2 kingpins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DynVQfnG4-0
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:46 AM   #830
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I made a video on "How to polishing your kingpins". The kingpins used in the video were 12R5.2 kingpins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DynVQfnG4-0
I followed your video, along with hand reaming the steering blocks 1/8". Huge improvement.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:09 PM   #831
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I'll some packages to open in a week or so. Stuck in the hospital right now with all this waiting on the table to unboxed!

Reedy Blackbox 410R w/program box
Futaba 3PL
ProTek RC 1S LiPo 100C 3.7V/7400mAh Battery
Enough Lunsford Racing Titanium screws for everything above the chassis plate.

On order

RSD Transverse Conversion Kit

I have another week to gob so hopefully the RSD stuff will be there too!
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:55 AM   #832
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Originally Posted by NomadRacer View Post
I'll some packages to open in a week or so. Stuck in the hospital right now with all this waiting on the table to unboxed!

Reedy Blackbox 410R w/program box
Futaba 3PL
ProTek RC 1S LiPo 100C 3.7V/7400mAh Battery
Enough Lunsford Racing Titanium screws for everything above the chassis plate.

On order

RSD Transverse Conversion Kit

I have another week to gob so hopefully the RSD stuff will be there too!
Hold on there, you have another week to go. Looks like you got an awesome package setup for your 1/12th scale. Best of luck!
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:42 AM   #833
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Yes mate, all's left to get is a couple of bodies,a charger,and get some tires truer.
I got one body but the right rear is messed up...like it was snatched from the mold to quick. I'm "anal" about perfect Lexan. Love to paint and have received many awards in 1/24 scale and HO in the past.
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Old 02-10-2016, 06:55 AM   #834
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Default Active Castor Settings

We have a small low traction club racing track.

I have to assume it is probably more bumpy than our wcics racing carpet and much less traction at the club level.

I thought about putting the active castor at 5 degrees as so indicated in the tips section. Usual is 10 degrees; good idea?

I am using the 3.25 degree castor adjustment as I feel the car has alot of steering already.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:23 AM   #835
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Originally Posted by irvinew View Post
We have a small low traction club racing track.

I have to assume it is probably more bumpy than our wcics racing carpet and much less traction at the club level.

I thought about putting the active castor at 5 degrees as so indicated in the tips section. Usual is 10 degrees; good idea?

I am using the 3.25 degree castor adjustment as I feel the car has alot of steering already.
As a starting point for bumpy, lower traction conditions, I'd recommend to up your tire size to 43 rear/41.5 front as a minimum (you could go a little taller still: 44/42) and up your height to 4mm so that you're not bottoming out over the bumps. That will make the car driveable and you can tune from there.

Running less reactive castor will take away a lot of steering once you dive into the corner. If that's what you need, then go for it. I normally stick to 10 and tune with other adjustments. You could go with 1.8 degree castor or take camber down to 0.5 degrees to take away some steering.
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:54 PM   #836
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I purchased one of these bad boys and Ill have the kit on Friday. Ive ran 1/10 off road indoor clay for couple of years now and thought these pan cars look real fast and harder to drive . I plan to pull my 6.5T LRP and ESC from one of my cars and use in the 12r5.2 until I decide If I really like or not onroad cars. What range of pinion would be good start at TQ racing track? I see some cars with huge gears and others with small.
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:05 PM   #837
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I purchased one of these bad boys and Ill have the kit on Friday. Ive ran 1/10 off road indoor clay for couple of years now and thought these pan cars look real fast and harder to drive . I plan to pull my 6.5T LRP and ESC from one of my cars and use in the 12r5.2 until I decide If I really like or not onroad cars. What range of pinion would be good start at TQ racing track? I see some cars with huge gears and others with small.
Wow. A 6.5 is quite a hot motor for running in a 1/12th scale car, especially for someone who is new to running 1/12th. In the US, by far the most popular motor choice is 17.5 and even those can be a little much for someone who's brand new to the 1/12th scale arena. It is probably not a good idea to try learning how to drive a 1/12th scale car with the rip of a 6.5 strapped into it.
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:43 PM   #838
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Originally Posted by nitro2be View Post
I purchased one of these bad boys and Ill have the kit on Friday. Ive ran 1/10 off road indoor clay for couple of years now and thought these pan cars look real fast and harder to drive . I plan to pull my 6.5T LRP and ESC from one of my cars and use in the 12r5.2 until I decide If I really like or not onroad cars. What range of pinion would be good start at TQ racing track? I see some cars with huge gears and others with small.
Start somewhere around 40 to 45mm rollout
So like
43mm rear tire
90t spur gear
27t pinion
RcRatio app is great for rollout maths
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Old 02-16-2016, 02:24 PM   #839
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Wow. A 6.5 is quite a hot motor for running in a 1/12th scale car, especially for someone who is new to running 1/12th. In the US, by far the most popular motor choice is 17.5 and even those can be a little much for someone who's brand new to the 1/12th scale arena. It is probably not a good idea to try learning how to drive a 1/12th scale car with the rip of a 6.5 strapped into it.

I know i know. I have a good throttle finger and been driving RC cars for many years, I just don't race anymore due to working weekends for last couple years. if Its to much I'd buy a smaller motor if I can't drive it. I figure I have Mod motor might as well try it. I LIKE GOING FAST.
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Old 02-16-2016, 02:26 PM   #840
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Start somewhere around 40 to 45mm rollout
So like
43mm rear tire
90t spur gear
27t pinion
RcRatio app is great for rollout maths

thank you. I start there and check out the app.
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