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Old 01-04-2016, 02:48 PM   #766
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Originally Posted by jasontraci View Post
what gearing would you recommend for 17.5
Depends on the track obviously but most people seem to be around 100 rollout.
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:57 PM   #767
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Working on my 12R5.2 for the 2016 season!

The build went fairly smoothly. The side links were and still are binding, even though I reamed them out a bit. Center front brace is useless after you add 2 mm spacers on the upper caster blocks. Shame. I ended up making my own brace with some spacers, concave washers, set screws, and an o-ring.
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Associated RC 12 R5.2-10177328_10101312421694011_7620792487237850938_n.jpg   Associated RC 12 R5.2-10437018_10101312421569261_7519739110879752564_n.jpg  
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:48 PM   #768
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Working on my 12R5.2 for the 2016 season!

The build went fairly smoothly. The side links were and still are binding, even though I reamed them out a bit. Center front brace is useless after you add 2 mm spacers on the upper caster blocks. Shame. I ended up making my own brace with some spacers, concave washers, set screws, and an o-ring.
Edward, I believe the old 12R5 brace works with the spaced top arms, as the car was 2mm narrower each side.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...asc4606/p29969
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:02 PM   #769
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I've been planning a transverse conversion to my car for a while, but my delivery from the USA was slower than usual due to the busy Xmas period. Basically I am happy with my car, but hate removing the top deck screws each time I want to change packs. And with tracks now enforcing charging in a bag, the pack has to come out after each run. There are some conversion kits available, (eg Reflex Racing), but they're pricey and it looks like the pack would still be hard to remove.

My solution? The 1 cell holder from the TOP Rebel 12. This holder mounts to the chassis and is only about 2mm high, so the pack can be removed easily after untaping. It simply involves drilling and countersinking two holes in the chassis.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5599

To fit the electrics, I made a new shock mount. I could have used the R5 mount and mounted the shock direct to the chassis, but I wanted to keep the shock at the same height and angle that I use. Ill test the R5 mount later (it also moves the aerial a few mm).

The pack-holding lugs in on the rear damper brace were trimmed a few mm to move the pack back a bit. With the ESC further forward, this keeps the car balance similar to stock. I balanced the car on a beveled ruler before the conversion, and while trial fitting the components.

All up it took a few hours, but I am happy with the result. If I had the right tools it could be done much faster.
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Old 01-05-2016, 01:27 AM   #770
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All electrics are now in. The layout is nice and it's really easy to get the battery in and out. Left to right balance is a bit off though, the ESC is pretty heavy compared with the rest of the gear, and I can't get it any closer to the centre of the car.
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Old 01-05-2016, 04:40 AM   #771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Working on my 12R5.2 for the 2016 season!

The build went fairly smoothly. The side links were and still are binding, even though I reamed them out a bit. Center front brace is useless after you add 2 mm spacers on the upper caster blocks. Shame. I ended up making my own brace with some spacers, concave washers, set screws, and an o-ring.
There are 2 mold#s for AE side links, check to see what numbers are stamped on yours, maybe you can find the opposite numbers, I think they are #1 and #2 ?
There is no left and right, just one that's better
Been a while since I have used AE parts, but I think that was the deal...
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All electrics are now in. The layout is nice and it's really easy to get the battery in and out. Left to right balance is a bit off though, the ESC is pretty heavy compared with the rest of the gear, and I can't get it any closer to the centre of the car.
If you flip the lipo around it may help with the balance
You have the heavy side of the lipo on the same side of the chassis as the esc
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Old 01-05-2016, 04:53 AM   #772
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As was said, the old R5/5.1 brace is perfect if you're going to have 2mm per side on the caster blocks.

I'd recommend testing servo savers as well - because I really wasn't a fan of that one as you're running it - the front of the car feels very nervous for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Working on my 12R5.2 for the 2016 season!

The build went fairly smoothly. The side links were and still are binding, even though I reamed them out a bit. Center front brace is useless after you add 2 mm spacers on the upper caster blocks. Shame. I ended up making my own brace with some spacers, concave washers, set screws, and an o-ring.
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Old 01-05-2016, 01:17 PM   #773
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
If you flip the lipo around it may help with the balance
You have the heavy side of the lipo on the same side of the chassis as the esc
Thanks, I didn't think of that. I flipped it around and the balance is right on
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Old 01-05-2016, 06:10 PM   #774
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I got my 12R5.2 kit and a Futaba S9650 servo today.

Looking at how it mounts and have a question...

Do I chop off the horizontal mounting lugs?
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Old 01-05-2016, 08:03 PM   #775
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I got my 12R5.2 kit and a Futaba S9650 servo today.

Looking at how it mounts and have a question...

Do I chop off the horizontal mounting lugs?
Nope....you can use those to directly attach to chassis without the mounts that came with the kit.
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:13 AM   #776
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Thanks for the tip darkangel.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:32 AM   #777
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I was quite surprised to see my car weighs in at 715 grams with body. My Yokomo R12 at its lightest was 740 grams. The 12R5.2 chassis could be lighter if I remove the team bomber caster blocks (run kit plastic), aluminum front cross brace (run carbon fibre R5) and Yokomo damper ( switch out for a team prime damper).

Now I need to figure out where to place the lead weight...

For those who are interested, I switched out the side links for Yokomo R12 side links. Much better. And mounted Yokomo R12 front chassis guards to protect the front corners of the chassis.

Everything is looking great and hopefully I'll be able to give it a shake down this weekend.
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Old 01-06-2016, 08:57 AM   #778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
There are 2 mold#s for AE side links, check to see what numbers are stamped on yours, maybe you can find the opposite numbers, I think they are #1 and #2 ?
There is no left and right, just one that's better
Been a while since I have used AE parts, but I think that was the deal...

If you flip the lipo around it may help with the balance
You have the heavy side of the lipo on the same side of the chassis as the esc
Son of a gun !!! I never knew LiPos had a heavier side.

Learn something new every day.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:12 AM   #779
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Working on my 12R5.2 for the 2016 season!

The build went fairly smoothly. The side links were and still are binding, even though I reamed them out a bit. Center front brace is useless after you add 2 mm spacers on the upper caster blocks. Shame. I ended up making my own brace with some spacers, concave washers, set screws, and an o-ring.

We use the 5.1 brace when we added the shims.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=186

OR you could use the VBC ones that come in different lengths.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:16 AM   #780
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Question on the Xenon steering blocks - I have the 1-2-3* ones but don't understand two things.

First is it caster or camber they change ...... how do they go in? The instructions show drawn pictures but not really clear on what way the number gos in each one.

Also what is the benefit from running them over stock?


Other question on side springs ...... what would I gain from going to black (softer) side springs over the Olive ones Associated makes?


Thanks for the help.
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