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Old 03-17-2013, 04:29 PM   #421
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12R5.2
Don't you need a voltage booster?
Cause i don't see one on your car.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:43 PM   #422
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Don't you need a voltage booster?
Cause i don't see one on your car.
SXX doesnt need one. It has a built in BEC for 1S.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:56 AM   #423
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SXX doesnt need one. It has a built in BEC for 1S.
Thx for the info, first i was thinking about buying a LRP FLOW esc but this looks to be the better choice.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:20 AM   #424
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Thx for the info, first i was thinking about buying a LRP FLOW esc but this looks to be the better choice.
Remember to wire SXX ESC to receiver correctly. If you connect reverse(signal to neg, neg to signal, you might fry the bec on the esc)...
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:37 AM   #425
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Remember to wire SXX ESC to receiver correctly. If you connect reverse(signal to neg, neg to signal, you might fry the bec on the esc)...
That's good to know, but it shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:23 AM   #426
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Anyone running the lipo chassis with old-school battery position? If so, do you strap the battery with tape only? No way to mount the old battery posts without the slots... I could use my old 5.1 chassis, but then no damper tubes(different tweak bar, holes etc) and body offset.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:09 AM   #427
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Anyone running the lipo chassis with old-school battery position? If so, do you strap the battery with tape only? No way to mount the old battery posts without the slots... I could use my old 5.1 chassis, but then no damper tubes(different tweak bar, holes etc) and body offset.
Thin servo tape under lipo w/strapping tape
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:28 PM   #428
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Just battery tape, it seemed fine when I ran it.
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:19 PM   #429
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Thin servo tape under lipo w/strapping tape
Nice tip. Tyvm.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:47 PM   #430
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I'm having some trouble getting the proper combination of ride height along with the proper amount of rear droop. If I shorten the shock to limit the amount of rear droop to a reasonable amount the shock ends up being too short to get the enough ride height even with the spring tightened all the way down.

If I lengthen the shock to get about 3.5mm of ride height in front of the rear pod with the stock blue spring tightened more than 3/4 of the way I get over 2mm of rear droop. This seems like too much rear droop.

Any tips?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:02 PM   #431
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I'm having some trouble getting the proper combination of ride height along with the proper amount of rear droop. If I shorten the shock to limit the amount of rear droop to a reasonable amount the shock ends up being too short to get the enough ride height even with the spring tightened all the way down.

If I lengthen the shock to get about 3.5mm of ride height in front of the rear pod with the stock blue spring tightened more than 3/4 of the way I get over 2mm of rear droop. This seems like too much rear droop.

Any tips?
how about rear axle height adjustment ?

set pod level with chassis, wheels down, ready to run

use pod/axle adjusters for ride height
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:01 PM   #432
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My rear pod is 5mm with the kit standard rear height adjusters and brand new tires.

My front is also about 5mm with the kit standard 1mm shims and brand new tires.

I maxxed out the adjustment on the spring and I got the chassis up to 4.5mm with 1.5mm of rear droop. My shock is in the kit standard mounting position. I would have to lengthen my shock to get 5mm of main chassis height to match my rear pod, which would also give me a ton of droop. Does this sound correct?
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:45 PM   #433
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My rear pod is 5mm with the kit standard rear height adjusters and brand new tires.

My front is also about 5mm with the kit standard 1mm shims and brand new tires.

Does this sound correct?
yep, the overall ride height is adjusted by shims in the front and switching out pills in the rear. (depending on how much your are cutting down the tires) You will need to acquire additional shims for the front end, and a variety of ride height adjusters ('pills') for the rear.

the IRS rear ride height adjusters is a nice set of 8 from 0 to 3.5 in 0.5 increments. for the front, the CRC front end shims (plastic sheets of 0.75 0.5 0.25mm thicknesses is a good choice or the manutech set.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...filter_mfr/676

the preload on the front springs or the center shock does not set ride height like you would with a touring car, the center shock spring adjustment is only be used to get the rear pod level (some racers like the pod to sag a little but this is a fine tuning adjustment) and the front springs are generally set for minimal droop.

good luck and welcome to pan cars. it may sound like a pain but the adjustments are only small changes for tire wear, once you have the initial setup.
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:03 AM   #434
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If using the CRC front plastic shims, just be cautious about the plastic deforming when you tighten the screws down and introducing tweak into the chassis. The manutech ones hold their shape better.

As for the rear, buy this kit and just be done:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Set-All-Sizes
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:33 AM   #435
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Thx for the info, first i was thinking about buying a LRP FLOW esc but this looks to be the better choice.
If you can still... everything has moved to the FLOW. If you buy used, make sure it has the original board and not the upgraded one which eliminates the 1S....
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