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Old 01-17-2013, 01:45 PM   #301
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adrian, i took a break for a while too, curious as to your tire saucing and cleaning ritual, it took me half a season to realize that what we used to do does not work anymore! it was a very frustrating few months... car changed handling characteristics 4 times in 8 minutes i can laugh now but it wasnt funny when it was happening
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:51 PM   #302
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Adrian

I would suggest checking the rear linkage on the car. Sounds like the center pivot has moved and is causing the problem you describe. I always check it by un-bolting the motor plates and the cross brace and then feel just the bottom plate as you move it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:12 PM   #303
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adrian, i took a break for a while too, curious as to your tire saucing and cleaning ritual, it took me half a season to realize that what we used to do does not work anymore! it was a very frustrating few months... car changed handling characteristics 4 times in 8 minutes i can laugh now but it wasnt funny when it was happening
1/12, Magenta/Magenta, SXT 3.0, Sauce 1/2 inner front 10min, full rear 20min.

My local track has a lot of SXT 3.0 in it and groves up to med/high traction even with a small turnout. Tires come off gummy/sludgy after a run.

Some guys do nothing, some guys use painters tape to get take off any particles.

I like my WGT best when I clean the tires with zippo lighter fluid to take all the gunk off after a run, let them dry and sauce 1/3 of the front and full rear for 5 min before a run. I will also check all of the front suspension in case anything has shifted.

On my 1/12 I tried the same process and the rear would get loose.

Then I tried not cleaning...no change

Then I started saucing the rears 2x as long as the front 10 min and 20 min+. This planted the rear better but I could still feel it turned harder to the left and pushed to the right.

Any suggestions?

I am 100% sure the car is not tweaked. I checked 3 different ways including bumping the beam on a tweak station to make sure the bubble returned the same in both directions.

The bearings are all good, I stripped the rear pod down to the plate and checked the pivots and pod alignment. Everything is free and smooth.

All I can think is its a balance and asymmetrical side spring preload issue.

I am going to redo the electronics tonight and move things around/add weight until its balanced. Then I'll see what happens next Wednesday.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:16 PM   #304
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Cleaning with fluid is what killed me, I dunno what has changed but as soon as I went to blue painters tape my troubles dissapeared, give the tape a try and stick with the saucing regiment, I don't think the new additives like it

My 5.2 has different preload too, sometimes the pod tweaks just a hair
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:18 PM   #305
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Will do, thanks!
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:24 PM   #306
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Adrian

I would suggest checking the rear linkage on the car. Sounds like the center pivot has moved and is causing the problem you describe. I always check it by un-bolting the motor plates and the cross brace and then feel just the bottom plate as you move it.
I did exactly that last night. The links and center pivots are free with no slop and the lower pod plate can move with no bumps or tight spots in its travel side to side.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:15 PM   #307
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Adrian, I know this is kinda basic... but are you circles even left and right?
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:26 PM   #308
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Adrian, I know this is kinda basic... but are you circles even left and right?
Most overlooked issue ever...+1 to check this.

Adrian i'd look at your front tire wear, if the outer edge of the left front tire is worn worse then it would be advised to add camber to the left side only, on my pan cars i usually have .5 degree more on the left to deal with the sweeper wear issue, and it soulds like it may help you cause.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:29 PM   #309
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2.5' circles are even left and right. I used to fly helicopters so I really check to make sure everything is mechanically even.

I have the camber set equal left and right. About 1.75 deg now. Both tires are wearing square. I have worn a set down to skins so I know this for sure. I do swap tires left to right every run to keep wear even. I don't do that on sedans but I think its ok on pan cars.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:14 PM   #310
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seemingly silly question but are people using the crc tube lube for the dampers? ive never had a damper tube car. some people are using high wt shock oil but i rebuilt my friends crc for him using 70wt ae and its very soft in the backside. should i use this stuff? and would i need higher than say 10k?

trying to minimize the amount of extra stuff i order.. cost savings... you know the drill.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:30 PM   #311
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Adrian, if you have the patience, this is the best set up guide for tweak I have ever seen:

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.co...a%2012th%20Car
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:45 PM   #312
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seemingly silly question but are people using the crc tube lube for the dampers? ive never had a damper tube car. some people are using high wt shock oil but i rebuilt my friends crc for him using 70wt ae and its very soft in the backside. should i use this stuff? and would i need higher than say 10k?

trying to minimize the amount of extra stuff i order.. cost savings... you know the drill.
At our track, medium grip, 20K is probably the most used tube lube.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:48 PM   #313
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Anyone having a balance issue with the car? I am running a HW 1s with the stock 2 cap board, a small Futaba RX, a Spektrum H5020G servo and an old AMB trans on center. No booster or battery. Since the pic was taken I have switched to Deans 16G wire for the motor to take more weight off the right side.

My stuff is light but the electronics side is just a touch heavy. I end up having 1.5 turns more on the electronics side side spring and I think that may be the cause of a mid race hooking to the left pushing to the right problem I am having.

I am going to move my transponder to the left of my servo, shorten all my wires (they are bundled between my RX and battery now) and maybe go to the smallest Futaba RX that is a touch smaller and a couple grams lighter.

I have swapped and replaced, front and side springs, my pod/side links are moving free and my tires are dead even diameter left to right.

Any other suggestions? Are the side springs perches even left to right on your cars after tweaking?
the tekin RS is lighter than the hobbywing, but i think in both cases the post end is the heavy end of the speedo, posts inboard should help

if flipping the speedo so the posts are inboard is not enough to balance, then try running the battery on the right side with the servo. unless you can flip the servo to lay on the left side?
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:07 AM   #314
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Default tyre regime and side dampers

In the uk, additive is either, CS,SPEEDTECH or Jack. After every run check edges for peel. and restick with evostick impact adhesive if required.
Then spray tyres with bearing blaster solvent to remove oil, leave to dry and re use.
I try to use a fresh set every run instead of running them to death and find this regime extends the life dramatically.

Side dampers I use Corrally red or the Speedtech spooge medium.
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:15 AM   #315
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I totally kitted and rebuilt my car last night. I checked everything mentioned here.

I found the right upper arm was swept back a little due to a crash so there was more caster on that side. Jason Breiner thought this might be the case and he was right.

I re-did the electronics and got the car balanced perfectly. This took FOREVER but I got it.

The spring perches are within 1/2 turn now with the car tweaked.

I am going to run Pink rears and Magenta fronts, using tape to clean them, saucing the rears 2x as long as the fronts.

I think I should be sorted out. I'll find out next Wednesday.

Thank you all for the help and sorry for hijacking the thread yesterday!
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