txaggie08

iTrader: (2)

Spoke with some folks that race at the closest track to me today, seems my best bet for being able to actually race if I show up with something not dripping oil and smelling bad is a 17.5t or mod class 1/10 tc.

Not sure I've got 700+ to drop on another car atm... anyone have recommendations on my best bet for a budget entry? Not opposed to starting a used hunt.

I have what is either a tc5 or tc6 here, but parts are pretty scarce, and it needs repairs.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

With Xray releasing a new model each year, you can find great deals on the previous years models

txaggie08

iTrader: (2)

will there be parts support for them?

BKUK

Years and years worth of parts supply 👍 Probably the best manufacturer for this.

txaggie08

iTrader: (2)

So any of the reasonably recent T4 chassis is probably a good bet? Honestly I would fix the TC5 i have now, but I don't know that I can even get the parts, especially without paying more than a more recent car is worth.

BKUK

Anything from a 16 onwards and you’ll be good to go.

Andy_F

You'll be suprised at the availability of some Associated parts. Have a good look on ebay - I'm running Losi's from 2004 and 2008 and I have no huge issue getting hold of enough parts still.

txaggie08

iTrader: (2)

Only problem is, I'm not 100% sure what all is wrong with it yet. I know it has an issue with a diff, needs shocks, but I'm not 100% sure what else at this point. I may investigate farther before I buy anything, I just don't want to put a ton into an old chassis.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I still have my TC3 from way way back and I have been able to buy parts still and it is still a wonderful car to race. The TC5 however was not a great chassis and I would strongly recommend that you find something better. The Xray T4 chassis as mentioned are all excellent. There are many other options though, and the Xpress XQ1S sport chassis comes to mind as an inexpensive, but otherwise excellent chassis to get into the sedan class. With Associated no longer doing sedans, I have seen many racers list their TC7.1 / TC7.2 chassis for sale and these are great cars as well.

txaggie08

iTrader: (2)

So y'all got me to go look at this chassis( have to understand, this was given to me about 2010 as having driveline issues, and I never investigated, just shelved it), and I THINK the only major issue is the outdrives on the diffs( that's not the worst one pictured), and the shocks needing a complete rebuild.

I think what happened was the guy who gave it to me went full yeehaw and crammed a rather overpowered SCT power system and a 3s battery in it and .... well yeehawing it. I cannot find the blue outdrives, but I'm seeing the black ( plastic i think) ones for about 6$ a set. I think I could replace the belts, the outdrives, and fix the shocks for about 45$, and have a running chassis.... I know the TC5 isn't great, but I'd think it would be a good chassis to beat on getting used to on road.

I had 3 tc3's at one point, and a tc4. Wish I had never sold them. I was trying to get some form of oval or flat track racing going years ago, and bought spare cars to loan out. When everyone petered out, I ditched them.

I will start looking as well at other cars, but I do still need an esc and motor

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Belts look fine but appear a bit tight, but diffs and outdrives are likely well worn, especially if a 3S lipo and SCT motor were used for bashing. I believe that the TC5 was still using Imperial hardware as did the TC3 and TC4 so double check. Give it all a good clean, replace crunchy bearings and go have fun. I recommend a Hobbywing XR10 Justock speed control for stock racing as these are inexpensive and bullet proof.

txaggie08

iTrader: (2)

Not 100%, but I'd imagine that's what did the damage to the cups. "Yeehaw" is a good description of where it would have come from.

The front diff is solid...don't know if it's locked or just tightened to be that way. The rear seems to be kind of loose but i don't know exactly how it should be set. Bearings all seem fine, the main damage is the diff outdrives. The car will roll about 4 inches before all the cross pins engage.

Im currently running hobbywing stuff in my 1/7, that little combo at 100$ would certainly help on the budget front! Makes the cost of a chassis a little more affordable. These cars are running 2s batts correct?

r_lud

Xpress £118 xq1s and £450 For xq10 both Fast

hw juststock And g3r esc/motor

ip battery

savox cheap servo

stuff like that

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Touring cars today use a solid spool up front and a gear diff in the rear. Your TC5 might have a spool, or has had the front diff locked tight. I leave the rear diff on my sedans fairly loose, but that's my preference. Adjust as you go. A 2S hardcase lipo is what you need.

txaggie08

iTrader: (2)

5.2ah or so? I may have a couple still floating around, ill have to look.