32819toon

iTrader: (1)

What are the differences ? Is the 1st version RS any good ?

magnum

iTrader: (2)

The RS is a good car for the price. Works quit well in usgt

bertottius

iTrader: (27)

Anyone have a used BD7 '15 they want to get rid of? Or know where I can find a new one in stock online for a good price?

mac853

Dear anyone:

Since i will race on low traction concrete surface med size track, possibly i believe will make treatment with Coke.
Then organizers will provide Solaris as control tire, i believe is 40 Shore, since the race will be in end of August.
So decided to run with these following parts, in order to run on low traction track and tire with flexible chassis:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=9749
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=9748
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=10041
Could anybody give some suggestion about my choice, please?
About setting, could somebody give me some suggestions as well?
About traction compound, anybody could tell me which fits with Solaris tires?

Best regards

GhostTown

Is there a fact sheet for the BD7 2015 for guys buying a Yokomo for the first time? I would like to buy the car, and a pick up necessary items needed for tuning and breakage/wear items in one shot if possible.

2uzferunner03

I got my bd7 used and it came with a couple chassis. I'm trying to figure out which chassis is actually installed on the car. From reviewing pictures it looks like the 2015 chassis but after reading through this forum the ff and rr blocks have different spacing between the 2014 and 2015.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

The free chassis which I believe to be a 2014 is 80 mm wide and 2.2mm thick. The installed chassis is 8 5mm wide and 2.3mm thick.

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

I have 2 bd7 2014 and both are 85mm wide.

Cheers

mac853

Dear anyone:

Could somebody explain me the difference between Yokomo seal grease
http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...oducts_id=5545
And bd7 2014 gear differential seal grease
http://www.eurorc.com/product/2895/y...sealing-grease

Then i also want to know how thick is this high traction upper deck
http://www.rc-shop.ch/1185_60720/yok...deck-graphite/

Best regards

svndayNZ

iTrader: (20)

My advice is the following

1. remove the rear X brace for low grip conditions. makes the rear flex more and makes it a lot easier to drive.

2. Buy extra 10x5 bearings that sit in your center gear, they blow from time to time, pretty inexpensive from Banzai or HK. Get extra's of those.

3. Buy more yokomo blue springs, they're a good go to - kit setup is blue / pink

4. the plastic open ball cups that sit in your steering bar are notorious for popping off the servo arm at the slightest hint of a crash. I replaced mine with the Yokomo Bmax closed type ball cups, i just trimmed them down so they fit the smaller turn buckle. Once you have them on they are bullet proof.

5. Titanium turn buckles are a nice touch, Yoke do a nice set but they're spendy, I went this way, however a mate got the Roche ones from HK they're cheaper but just as good.

6. The center post on the car that sits on the bell crank can also make the front end of the car too rigid, you might also want to consider a fine 0.5mm shim between the screw that holds the bell cranks onto the post.

7. DCJ's, they're expensive, and sadly unlike my 419 the BD7 didn't come with any but they're a good upgrade to have.

8. Get a 5.7 rear suspension block and a 4.2 front suspension block. the 5.7 gives a little less rear toe in the 4.2 gives the front a slightly wider track width.

9. lastly a 20g center weight and the 10g Yokomo weights for the front makes the car feel far less flighty

I don't know these part numbers without looking for them but there are some pretty quick yokomo drivers here in Australia, they all use these bits I've described above.

Overall though the BD7 15 is by some measure the best looking TC on the market, it's easy to work on it falls together in the build. you wont regret one

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

All, as I was browsing ETS setup sheets... am I the only one surprised to see so thick rear diffs on a medium-grip track?

Cheers
Paul

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

Not really, the new diff is a low volume diff and so the fluid needs to be thicker. With the way they fill the diff it feels like 2000-3000 on the old diff.

Nevermind, I was looking at martin hofers set up with 5,000 which is normal.

I then saw the Meens and Yannicks with 10,000!

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

voila. that's what I'm asking about...

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

A thick weight indeed. However, you should keep in mind the ageing temperatures they were running in. Also whether or not they brought the differential oil up to operating temperatures before they even put the car on the track.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

regarding track temps, judging by the pictures, and the long sleeves / sweaters of most drivers, they look like normal springtime pics to me, ie ca. 25degC.

No idea if they preaheated the fluids, but why would they do it any different than usual? And usually, they don't run such thick diffs... so unless they are doing sthing different than usual (half-filling, preheating like crazy w, whatever) these are thicker diffs than usual. my Q is "why"

fpart

iTrader: (41)

Are most people using the bulkhead braces(x brace) on their cars on carpet? or are they taking them off. I have switched to a aluminum chassis and now think it is too stiff with the brace and aluminum chassis.