8LikesYOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
09-07-2014, 08:03 PM
#4501
Dogbone length
A quick question, I recently bought my first ever yokomo (after owning Associateds, Tamiyas and Serpents over the years) and can honestly say I'm an official convert and won't be going back.
I built my 14 Black Series on the weekend, and the rear end doesn't seem right, I have the camber links built to the suggested length of 50.5 mm but it fits so snug that the rear drive shafts are pushing heavily into the rear out drives. The rear belt is sitting snug not too loose or tight. The rear arms don't move up and down freely because the out drives and diff are effecting being "pinned" by the drive shafts.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so how is it fixed?
Cheers
I built my 14 Black Series on the weekend, and the rear end doesn't seem right, I have the camber links built to the suggested length of 50.5 mm but it fits so snug that the rear drive shafts are pushing heavily into the rear out drives. The rear belt is sitting snug not too loose or tight. The rear arms don't move up and down freely because the out drives and diff are effecting being "pinned" by the drive shafts.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so how is it fixed?
Cheers
Rgds
Last edited by thesaint; 09-07-2014 at 08:43 PM.
09-07-2014, 08:42 PM
#4503
1.1mm is stock with the 14 kit.
1.1mm has less high speed dampening (pack) compared with the 1.0mm pistons.
1.1mm has less high speed dampening (pack) compared with the 1.0mm pistons.
09-08-2014, 06:05 AM
#4504
A quick question, I recently bought my first ever yokomo (after owning Associateds, Tamiyas and Serpents over the years) and can honestly say I'm an official convert and won't be going back.
I built my 14 Black Series on the weekend, and the rear end doesn't seem right, I have the camber links built to the suggested length of 50.5 mm but it fits so snug that the rear drive shafts are pushing heavily into the rear out drives. The rear belt is sitting snug not too loose or tight. The rear arms don't move up and down freely because the out drives and diff are effecting being "pinned" by the drive shafts.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so how is it fixed?
Cheers
I built my 14 Black Series on the weekend, and the rear end doesn't seem right, I have the camber links built to the suggested length of 50.5 mm but it fits so snug that the rear drive shafts are pushing heavily into the rear out drives. The rear belt is sitting snug not too loose or tight. The rear arms don't move up and down freely because the out drives and diff are effecting being "pinned" by the drive shafts.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so how is it fixed?
Cheers
09-08-2014, 07:04 AM
#4505
My BD-7 will be arriving today 
I will be running 17.5 Blinky on carpet with a Tekin RS gen 1 and D4 "MAXZILLA" motor. I got my gearing somewhat sorted out for the track I will be running at (FDR 3.6 to 4.0). My question is what is a good range of motor timing to set and what C rating and Mah should I be looking for in my batteries? I was thinking something around 70C and 6000mah, but not sure. I am a club racer, doing indoor carpet to keep a TX in my hand this winter.
I haven't run touring or carpet since the Corally RDX first came out
I will be running 17.5 Blinky on carpet with a Tekin RS gen 1 and D4 "MAXZILLA" motor. I got my gearing somewhat sorted out for the track I will be running at (FDR 3.6 to 4.0). My question is what is a good range of motor timing to set and what C rating and Mah should I be looking for in my batteries? I was thinking something around 70C and 6000mah, but not sure. I am a club racer, doing indoor carpet to keep a TX in my hand this winter. I haven't run touring or carpet since the Corally RDX first came out
09-08-2014, 03:47 PM
#4507
09-09-2014, 10:01 AM
#4509
Tech Initiate
How do measure if the left shocks are harder than the right, measure the ride height of the left and right side at the middle of the chassis? Adjust till equal
Marc
Marc
09-09-2014, 12:42 PM
#4510
1) building all 4 or pairs (front & rear) of shocks to equal length.
2) turn the shock adjuster nut equal amount of turns to ensure that both shocks (L+R) have equal preload. The way my shocks are built it's generally 2 1/4 turns for Pinks in front and 2 1/2 turns for Blues in rear.
Ride height is generally measured at the 4 corners of the chassis. If there is a difference L to R on either the front and/or rear, then you'll want to check on the following.
1) chassis tweak
2) distribution of weight on the chassis
3) shock towers/bulk heads tweak
4) setup board flatness
5) springs
09-09-2014, 09:12 PM
#4511
Tech Initiate
Thanks John.c
