YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
#4396
bd7
I've been out of TC for at least 5 years.
As I'm on a budget I'm interested in the BD7 version RS to get back into it (for a carpet track mostly and rubber tires)
I can't find any review of the car, did any one tried it, is it durable ?
I would use a 10.5 motor (local spec class)
Thanks for the help.
Gilles.
As I'm on a budget I'm interested in the BD7 version RS to get back into it (for a carpet track mostly and rubber tires)
I can't find any review of the car, did any one tried it, is it durable ?
I would use a 10.5 motor (local spec class)
Thanks for the help.
Gilles.
#4397
#4398
Tech Adept
My question was about the version RS: http://www.teamyokomo.com/product/on...4tc_bd7rs.html
Especially on carpet:
No anti roll bars, plastic spool, soft suspension parts and plastic shocks to name some of the main points.
Out of the box I would not recommend the BD7 RS for carpet at all, and hopping it up will be very costly.
So I think you would be better off buying a good used car. Many of them come with heaps of spares so you will save quite a few $$.
Regards,
David
#4399
Thanks for the input, the anti-roll bars are a must apparently and I didn't know the spool was made of plastic. The club I'll run the car is carpet but everyone use rubber tires (we don't have a foam on carpet class here)
The BD7 RS has some big disadvantages over the regular BD7.
Especially on carpet:
No anti roll bars, plastic spool, soft suspension parts and plastic shocks to name some of the main points.
Out of the box I would not recommend the BD7 RS for carpet at all, and hopping it up will be very costly.
So I think you would be better off buying a good used car. Many of them come with heaps of spares so you will save quite a few $$.
Regards,
David
Especially on carpet:
No anti roll bars, plastic spool, soft suspension parts and plastic shocks to name some of the main points.
Out of the box I would not recommend the BD7 RS for carpet at all, and hopping it up will be very costly.
So I think you would be better off buying a good used car. Many of them come with heaps of spares so you will save quite a few $$.
Regards,
David
#4400
My question was about the version RS: http://www.teamyokomo.com/product/on...4tc_bd7rs.html
Anti roll bars would be recommended. Yokomo Pink / Blue springs also - the RS Kit ones are very soft.
Plastic shocks are ok. The plastic other components (bulkheads and hinge pin carriers) are ok but do introduce a lot more flex into the car compared to the BD7.
It would be a good starting point with the above spool, spring and roll bar upgrades.
#4401
The plastic spool is very vulnerable, best upgrade would be the Spec R spool.
Anti roll bars would be recommended. Yokomo Pink / Blue springs also - the RS Kit ones are very soft.
Plastic shocks are ok. The plastic other components (bulkheads and hinge pin carriers) are ok but do introduce a lot more flex into the car compared to the BD7.
It would be a good starting point with the above spool, spring and roll bar upgrades.
Anti roll bars would be recommended. Yokomo Pink / Blue springs also - the RS Kit ones are very soft.
Plastic shocks are ok. The plastic other components (bulkheads and hinge pin carriers) are ok but do introduce a lot more flex into the car compared to the BD7.
It would be a good starting point with the above spool, spring and roll bar upgrades.
#4402
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
#4403
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
Banzai Hobby has some of the best prices currently.
Aluminum chassis version
Open class version
Figure another $45ish for shipping to the USA. They are sometimes a bit "slow" (by the usual Japanese shop standards of nearly instantaneous shipping they take a day or sometimes 2) to ship.
Futaba RC Pro Shop is usually a bit cheaper on shipping though.
Mike Slaughter
Aluminum chassis version
Open class version
Figure another $45ish for shipping to the USA. They are sometimes a bit "slow" (by the usual Japanese shop standards of nearly instantaneous shipping they take a day or sometimes 2) to ship.
Futaba RC Pro Shop is usually a bit cheaper on shipping though.
Mike Slaughter
#4404
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
The JMRCA kit came with the alum chassis, short shocks, double joint units (newer clip on style), black central servo mount, ti turnbuckle, alum belt tension cam, ti coated main gear shaft, alum rear 44m dog bones, graphite bumper mount support. Pretty much everything you can buy now as hop ups are now standard.
Although the kit is advertised/marketed as a sport/stock chassis it comes with the 116T spur gear. Also, in the included special setup sheet it calls for the 2 blue o-rings and the thinner guide but the kit is supplied with the stock 1 clear o-ring and thicker guide. I ordered all of the necessary pieces for my shock and differential to get it working properly so it's not a big deal.
www.Banzaihobby.com is where I purchased my JMRCA kit. Still in stock.
#4405
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Very nice! Hopefully, they can put in a great effort at the Worlds and come away with a championship. It'll be a great way to cap off a wonderful season Ronald has been having. Not too mention, they can sell the limited 2014 IFMAR World Championship edition kits.
The JMRCA kit came with the alum chassis, short shocks, double joint units (newer clip on style), black central servo mount, ti turnbuckle, alum belt tension cam, ti coated main gear shaft, alum rear 44m dog bones, graphite bumper mount support. Pretty much everything you can buy now as hop ups are now standard.
Although the kit is advertised/marketed as a sport/stock chassis it comes with the 116T spur gear. Also, in the included special setup sheet it calls for the 2 blue o-rings and the thinner guide but the kit is supplied with the stock 1 clear o-ring and thicker guide. I ordered all of the necessary pieces for my shock and differential to get it working properly so it's not a big deal.
www.Banzaihobby.com is where I purchased my JMRCA kit. Still in stock.
The JMRCA kit came with the alum chassis, short shocks, double joint units (newer clip on style), black central servo mount, ti turnbuckle, alum belt tension cam, ti coated main gear shaft, alum rear 44m dog bones, graphite bumper mount support. Pretty much everything you can buy now as hop ups are now standard.
Although the kit is advertised/marketed as a sport/stock chassis it comes with the 116T spur gear. Also, in the included special setup sheet it calls for the 2 blue o-rings and the thinner guide but the kit is supplied with the stock 1 clear o-ring and thicker guide. I ordered all of the necessary pieces for my shock and differential to get it working properly so it's not a big deal.
www.Banzaihobby.com is where I purchased my JMRCA kit. Still in stock.
#4406
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Ran one my BD7 2014 in 17.5 last night, it's been a while since I put on the track but still super competitive without much adjustment I was able to come in third, off from .02 seconds, such a close race. The front two guys are better drivers but the yok performed amazing. I went back to standard shocks on carpet and it suits my driving better. I'm sure the short shocks may be better but I didn't have time to test it out again.
#4407
Aluminium chassis
Hi all,
Can anyone who have try the alum chassis feedback what is the benefit? Thou of getting one but don't see the team driver using it except for hara. So not sure this suitable upgrade to try? Any feedback is appreciate.
Thx
Can anyone who have try the alum chassis feedback what is the benefit? Thou of getting one but don't see the team driver using it except for hara. So not sure this suitable upgrade to try? Any feedback is appreciate.
Thx
#4409
There are a few points worth mentioning, and yes, the front spool is one possible failure point, but you get two in the box, so hopefully you won't be high an dry should the undesirable happen. If your track has unforgiving boards, I am not sure what's worse, breaking a 5$ plastic spool or a 50$ driveshaft?
As for plastic shocks, etc, remember Xray cars come with plastic shocks and nobody thinks they're inferior.
Personally I bought mine as an RS and applied my personal touch to it by using everything available in my tool box before I went out and bought the expensive stuff. That's how my car ended up with Tamiya/Xray diffs (lowering the internal ratio is a bonus), an SD front spool (modified to be able to take Tamiya/Xray spool pulleys), Tamyia suspension blocks (much bigger range than Yokomo), Team Durango center pulleys, Xray belts, home made battery strap, Xray servo mount and so on. All of this stuff fits straight in, no need to drill, etc. The only bit I bought off Yokomo was a BD7 2014 motor mount (not really necessary, but good tuning option and quite cheap) which required drilling the chassis (no biggie). I also had to open up the diff cutouts in the chassis a tad for the Tamiya diff pulleys to fit.
You don't need to do any of that though. The car is very good the way it is, just don't hit stuff. All that plastic stuff means your car is more flexible so it should perform very well on carpet.
#4410
Could someone tell me the approximate length of the front camber link measuring from center of ball-stud to center of ball-stud? In the long and short positions.
Thanks
Thanks