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YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7

Old 03-14-2014, 02:29 PM
  #3811  
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I'll be sure to throw the whole batch in a cauldron of hot water when it arrives. I was ready to pull the trigger on getting the Arenas as a back up until I found some 4-degree, plastic c-hubs at Apex RC.

Fingers crossed because I just took delivery of a bunch of springs that I want to test out tonight, but I don't have any extra, right-side c-hubs until my order comes in next week. I'll only make aggressive left turns. I can't bum any extra parts off anyone else because the vast majority of people are running Awesomatix A700s.


Originally Posted by JimmyMac
All my chubs are boiled. I cannot comment on durability because I haven't ever broken any (4degree). I have broken a 6 degree, but that was because I didn't cut down the axles on my drive shafts when I ran the Spec R double jointed shafts. The axle end just barely clipped a part of the corner and it ripped everything off. The Arena chubs are tiny but seem strong so far. You'll more than likely strip out knuckles. If you crash, then as usual, check for bending. It's an alternative I use until the chub shortage is done. Oh, and when using the plastic chubs, I put a 0.1mm shim in there to take out any slop between the chub and arm.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:08 PM
  #3812  
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Originally Posted by Colbynobo
I'll be sure to throw the whole batch in a cauldron of hot water when it arrives. I was ready to pull the trigger on getting the Arenas as a back up until I found some 4-degree, plastic c-hubs at Apex RC.

Fingers crossed because I just took delivery of a bunch of springs that I want to test out tonight, but I don't have any extra, right-side c-hubs until my order comes in next week. I'll only make aggressive left turns. I can't bum any extra parts off anyone else because the vast majority of people are running Awesomatix A700s.
I still have my BD7
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:56 PM
  #3813  
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
Ths is obvious, but have you chckd your tire to make sure they are not comng unglued? Also, check for cracks in your rear hubs and a arms.

If everything is set right on you car and it acts tweaked, there is either a fissured suspension component, bad set of tires or a geometry issue. Check all your shims, shock positions, suspension mounts, etc to make sure they are the same side to side.
Thanks Cristian I'll check everything as you suggested.
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by walzjer
It's quite bumpy. Actually i run 5.5mm front and 4.5 mm rear droop but will raise that to 6.5/5.5. I tried HB Pink but went back to Silver, felt better. Shocks position is noticed to test next time.
If it's quite bumpy you may want to try 6/6.2mm ride height with droop around 5/4. I know when we do parking lot racing, we had to raise ride height on some of the places we went to so that the car handled properly.
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:44 PM
  #3815  
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anybody use their gear diff with the steel gears? How does it feel compared to the plastic gears?
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:50 PM
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First time running my BD7 2014 on blinky 17.5 just to get the feel of the car all I can say is wow its like an unfair advantage. I didn't even push the car hard it's just on rails.. I even started on the back of the pack on our main after 3 laps I took the lead and check out and put a whole lap on the field... really impressed with the car...
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:28 AM
  #3817  
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Originally Posted by mikeygar
anybody use their gear diff with the steel gears? How does it feel compared to the plastic gears?
It feels smoother, but I haven't ran it back to back to compare it yet because I was doing back to back short shock vs standard shock testing. If I have time I'll do that today with the diffs.
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:33 AM
  #3818  
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Originally Posted by mikeygar
anybody use their gear diff with the steel gears? How does it feel compared to the plastic gears?
Feels the same on track. I had no problems with the plastic gears either so that money for metal gears should be spent elsewhere.
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:38 AM
  #3819  
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
It feels smoother, but I haven't ran it back to back to compare it yet because I was doing back to back short shock vs standard shock testing. If I have time I'll do that today with the diffs.

I also did some more testing with the different shocks yesterday!

-Short shocks are more stable and better suited for spec classes.
-Regular shocks are more aggressive from the middle and out of the corner; definitely felt better in modified until you see crazy grip levels.
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Old 03-16-2014, 01:01 AM
  #3820  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Feels the same on track. I had no problems with the plastic gears either so that money for metal gears should be spent elsewhere.
I figured as much, hehe. I just bought them out of curiosity and didn't notice a change when I switched my diffs out during my shock testing. Guess I don't need to worry about it then.
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:12 AM
  #3821  
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My diff leaks with the standard orings and I have purchased the kyosho P5 orings. I have found they are not as tight on the shaft as the orginals.

My concern is the P5 orgins will leak worse than the orginals any thoughts.

I also have 2 blue orings on the shocks with the small spacer, the shocks don't leak but they shocks suck in air through the bottom of the shock.

I have put the orings in shock oil for a few days and the problem remains.

Any suggestions.
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:26 AM
  #3822  
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Originally Posted by frozenpod
My diff leaks with the standard orings and I have purchased the kyosho P5 orings. I have found they are not as tight on the shaft as the orginals.

My concern is the P5 orgins will leak worse than the orginals any thoughts.

I also have 2 blue orings on the shocks with the small spacer, the shocks don't leak but they shocks suck in air through the bottom of the shock.

I have put the orings in shock oil for a few days and the problem remains.

Any suggestions.
You are probably comparing a new P5 oring to a Yokomo oring that is already swollen.

All orings will swell up a bit after installing and a lot of us here locally have changed to P5 orings to solve a leaky diff.

As for the shocks, lets just say building them requires much vigilance. I rebleed every day. The new shock bodies are a little better than the old non coated version.
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:03 AM
  #3823  
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Thanks, yes new P5 vs used originals. I thought orange silicon orings were not supposed to swell but I put them in.

I did notice on closer inspection the orginals had a lot of clearence to the housing where as the P5's had a little clearence.

I have the 2014, black shocks with titanium coated shafts. I am surprised they are anything short of exceptional. Would a shim to squeeze the orings be worth a try?
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:38 AM
  #3824  
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Hi,
Which Yokomo springs have the same or are very close to the HPI silvers? Or which Yokomo springs are best for a fast track, medium grip asphalt, I have yokomo #400 oil 3 hole, 1.1 pistons, 2 blue o-rings, black bladder.

Thx for replying!
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Old 03-16-2014, 11:45 AM
  #3825  
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Here is a screenshot from an excel sheet from petitrc.

Looks like Yokomo Green is close to HB Silver.

HB and HPI are the same.
Attached Thumbnails YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7-bildschirmfoto-2014-03-16-um-19.42.28.png  
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