8LikesYOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
10-16-2013, 01:00 PM
#2836
Awesome suggestion guys. Good to hear from you again kschu! I'm back at RC racing again and back with a Yok.
I run Mugen 2000cst in my rear diff. I do have some MuchMore 3000cst I could try, but I'm going with the bridge first as I feel a lot of the oversteer is the chassis snapping/flexing back after initial turn in. As for tires, I'm currently running what the track is selling to support them. If I start mounting my own, it might open up a whole can of worms. Plus it's good to know what chassis settings do rather than just changing tires because that is not always an option. Especially at big races with handout tires. Great suggestions though. Maybe I should go back to a ball diff. I remember my BD5 diff was silky smooth back in the day! Oh yeah, I'm currently running the MazdaSpeed 6 regular weight. I wanna switch to a lightweight body. Take some top weight off the car.
So where is that IIC setup! Hehe
I run Mugen 2000cst in my rear diff. I do have some MuchMore 3000cst I could try, but I'm going with the bridge first as I feel a lot of the oversteer is the chassis snapping/flexing back after initial turn in. As for tires, I'm currently running what the track is selling to support them. If I start mounting my own, it might open up a whole can of worms. Plus it's good to know what chassis settings do rather than just changing tires because that is not always an option. Especially at big races with handout tires. Great suggestions though. Maybe I should go back to a ball diff. I remember my BD5 diff was silky smooth back in the day! Oh yeah, I'm currently running the MazdaSpeed 6 regular weight. I wanna switch to a lightweight body. Take some top weight off the car.
So where is that IIC setup! Hehe
10-16-2013, 01:56 PM
#2837
Tech Regular
A lwt Speed6 will help calm the car down too, they tend to have a bit less steering than the regular weight shell.
10-17-2013, 09:54 AM
#2839
When using front Cardan joints, do they fit stock c hub.
10-17-2013, 04:33 PM
#2841
Tech Apprentice
re
Hey guys, here is our setups(Mod and Super stock) from IIC.
The main difference between our setup and Ronalds was that he used Pink springs up front. We were running the pink almost the whole week, but once the grip began to reach ridiculous levels, they made the car more twitchy and prone to traction rolling so we ditched them in favour of the blue springs. We tested back to back on both cars during two seperate practice sessions, and Andrew preferred the way the car felt with the blue springs because he could drive the car much harder. In medium to low grip, I think the pinks are better(more corner speed) as the chance of traction rolling is much lower.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask!
The main difference between our setup and Ronalds was that he used Pink springs up front. We were running the pink almost the whole week, but once the grip began to reach ridiculous levels, they made the car more twitchy and prone to traction rolling so we ditched them in favour of the blue springs. We tested back to back on both cars during two seperate practice sessions, and Andrew preferred the way the car felt with the blue springs because he could drive the car much harder. In medium to low grip, I think the pinks are better(more corner speed) as the chance of traction rolling is much lower.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask!
10-17-2013, 04:52 PM
#2842
Tech Apprentice
Hey guys, here is our setups(Mod and Super stock) from IIC.
The main difference between our setup and Ronalds was that he used Pink springs up front. We were running the pink almost the whole week, but once the grip began to reach ridiculous levels, they made the car more twitchy and prone to traction rolling so we ditched them in favour of the blue springs. We tested back to back on both cars during two seperate practice sessions, and Andrew preferred the way the car felt with the blue springs because he could drive the car much harder. In medium to low grip, I think the pinks are better(more corner speed) as the chance of traction rolling is much lower.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask!
The main difference between our setup and Ronalds was that he used Pink springs up front. We were running the pink almost the whole week, but once the grip began to reach ridiculous levels, they made the car more twitchy and prone to traction rolling so we ditched them in favour of the blue springs. We tested back to back on both cars during two seperate practice sessions, and Andrew preferred the way the car felt with the blue springs because he could drive the car much harder. In medium to low grip, I think the pinks are better(more corner speed) as the chance of traction rolling is much lower.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask!
2 things, I see in the setup sheet it says you used the outer hole on the rear hub, is this correct?? This would make a longer rear link but not by the other bulkhead position. Also, the steering bridge, do you have it fitted to bell cranks alone or to topdeck as well?? I have a raceberry carbon plate for just across the bellcranks
thanks
10-17-2013, 04:56 PM
#2843
Tech Apprentice
And, I know it says droop 1.5 above ride height, what is this on 10mm blocks with droop gauge ?? Unless there is a quick way to convert it
ta
ta
10-17-2013, 05:27 PM
#2844
Tech Apprentice
re
You are correct - long rear links. 
This makes the car more stable on corner entry and steer more middle off. Both Ronald and Andrew like to get on the power VERY early and we were struggling(Andrew) to get enough steering(especially onto the straight). Keep in mind that the whole setup works together so don't just try it once and expect it to work better...well sometimes you get lucky, but you know what I mean. 
As for droop, I have always used "above ride height" way of measuring because it is stupid easy, and all you need is a ride height gauge - not everyone has droop blocks so they may not be able to accurately copy a setup of mine...oh and you don't need to take your wheels off!
So, for those who do not know what "above ride height" is:
1. Measure your rideheight.
2. Lift the end of the car you are working with(front/rear) by the shock tower and stop just before the tires come off the ground.
3. Now, measure again.
4. The difference bwteen the two measurements is your droop.
Important: The actualy numbers are only needed for recording purposes and to share setup information. When I tune the car, I am working off my base setting and not adjusting to a specific number. If I feel we need more rear droop for example, I will just take the wrench and turn the screws a 1/2 turn. After doing this more than twice, I will then, and only then, put it on the droop blocks to ensure the droop is equal left/right.
Hope that helps!
This makes the car more stable on corner entry and steer more middle off. Both Ronald and Andrew like to get on the power VERY early and we were struggling(Andrew) to get enough steering(especially onto the straight). Keep in mind that the whole setup works together so don't just try it once and expect it to work better...well sometimes you get lucky, but you know what I mean. As for droop, I have always used "above ride height" way of measuring because it is stupid easy, and all you need is a ride height gauge - not everyone has droop blocks so they may not be able to accurately copy a setup of mine...oh and you don't need to take your wheels off!
So, for those who do not know what "above ride height" is:
1. Measure your rideheight.
2. Lift the end of the car you are working with(front/rear) by the shock tower and stop just before the tires come off the ground.
3. Now, measure again.
4. The difference bwteen the two measurements is your droop.
Important: The actualy numbers are only needed for recording purposes and to share setup information. When I tune the car, I am working off my base setting and not adjusting to a specific number. If I feel we need more rear droop for example, I will just take the wrench and turn the screws a 1/2 turn. After doing this more than twice, I will then, and only then, put it on the droop blocks to ensure the droop is equal left/right.
Hope that helps!
10-17-2013, 06:31 PM
#2845
Thanks for the setup Corey. Definitely gonna try the super stock setup this Sunday.
Kosmic, you can see a small pic of Ronald's car from the IIC on RC50.com. It also showed the rear link on the outer hole on the rear hub. I was wondering if he was gonna run it this way or if it was just for show while his car was on display. Good to see Corey link up the setup with this in there as well. Helps verify a few things.
Kosmic, you can see a small pic of Ronald's car from the IIC on RC50.com. It also showed the rear link on the outer hole on the rear hub. I was wondering if he was gonna run it this way or if it was just for show while his car was on display. Good to see Corey link up the setup with this in there as well. Helps verify a few things.
10-17-2013, 06:41 PM
#2846
Tech Regular
Are you running ECS shafts upfront? I had the same problem with the stock universal shafts.
10-17-2013, 08:01 PM
#2847
Tech Initiate
MR..ROCHE DIAGON VOLUME SHOCK (DVS) TOURING SHOCKS SET FOR YOKOMO BD7- ROC-BD7-07
All-newly designed “Diagon Volume Shock (DVS)” for touring car. Shorter shock shafts, bigger shock body diamenter keeping the volume the same as original shocks. Shock top cap, shock body, shock bottom cap and height adjuster are made from aircraft grade aluminum with bling machine cutting. All new piston design groove to improve the linearity of oil flow. 4 different springs rate suitable for different track conditions.
Kit are included :
1) Full Set of MR..ROCHE DVS Shock Springs
2) 3 Holes and 4 Holes DVS Shock Pistons
3) Titanium Coated Shock Shafts
4) 4 Hardness DVS Oil Sealer Caps Set
5) Hard Coated Aluminum Shock Bodies
6) Front & Rear Shock Tower for BD7 (-2mm)
All-newly designed “Diagon Volume Shock (DVS)” for touring car. Shorter shock shafts, bigger shock body diamenter keeping the volume the same as original shocks. Shock top cap, shock body, shock bottom cap and height adjuster are made from aircraft grade aluminum with bling machine cutting. All new piston design groove to improve the linearity of oil flow. 4 different springs rate suitable for different track conditions.
Kit are included :
1) Full Set of MR..ROCHE DVS Shock Springs
2) 3 Holes and 4 Holes DVS Shock Pistons
3) Titanium Coated Shock Shafts
4) 4 Hardness DVS Oil Sealer Caps Set
5) Hard Coated Aluminum Shock Bodies
6) Front & Rear Shock Tower for BD7 (-2mm)
10-18-2013, 04:12 AM
#2849
Tech Initiate
Just wondering if anyone running a 21.5 motor and what spur pinion running? Just setting mine all up! Thanks guys awesome thread
10-18-2013, 04:41 AM
#2850
Tech Apprentice
You are correct - long rear links. This makes the car more stable on corner entry and steer more middle off. Both Ronald and Andrew like to get on the power VERY early and we were struggling(Andrew) to get enough steering(especially onto the straight). Keep in mind that the whole setup works together so don't just try it once and expect it to work better...well sometimes you get lucky, but you know what I mean.
As for droop, I have always used "above ride height" way of measuring because it is stupid easy, and all you need is a ride height gauge - not everyone has droop blocks so they may not be able to accurately copy a setup of mine...oh and you don't need to take your wheels off!
So, for those who do not know what "above ride height" is:
1. Measure your rideheight.
2. Lift the end of the car you are working with(front/rear) by the shock tower and stop just before the tires come off the ground.
3. Now, measure again.
4. The difference bwteen the two measurements is your droop.
Important: The actualy numbers are only needed for recording purposes and to share setup information. When I tune the car, I am working off my base setting and not adjusting to a specific number. If I feel we need more rear droop for example, I will just take the wrench and turn the screws a 1/2 turn. After doing this more than twice, I will then, and only then, put it on the droop blocks to ensure the droop is equal left/right.
Hope that helps!
This makes the car more stable on corner entry and steer more middle off. Both Ronald and Andrew like to get on the power VERY early and we were struggling(Andrew) to get enough steering(especially onto the straight). Keep in mind that the whole setup works together so don't just try it once and expect it to work better...well sometimes you get lucky, but you know what I mean. As for droop, I have always used "above ride height" way of measuring because it is stupid easy, and all you need is a ride height gauge - not everyone has droop blocks so they may not be able to accurately copy a setup of mine...oh and you don't need to take your wheels off!
So, for those who do not know what "above ride height" is:
1. Measure your rideheight.
2. Lift the end of the car you are working with(front/rear) by the shock tower and stop just before the tires come off the ground.
3. Now, measure again.
4. The difference bwteen the two measurements is your droop.
Important: The actualy numbers are only needed for recording purposes and to share setup information. When I tune the car, I am working off my base setting and not adjusting to a specific number. If I feel we need more rear droop for example, I will just take the wrench and turn the screws a 1/2 turn. After doing this more than twice, I will then, and only then, put it on the droop blocks to ensure the droop is equal left/right.
Hope that helps!
Cheers