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Old 12-28-2012, 06:07 PM   #1426
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Can someone explain whats the point on installing BD-010RW Rear double joint universal shafts in the rear of, well, any car? other than having more moving parts to break, i really can't see how a regular CVD wouldn't work as well for the limited suspension movement the rear hubs and arms do...

I know all of the top guys use them, but what's the reason? It should not change the way the car handles, i get how the steering would work better, but in the rear?...
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:04 PM   #1427
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Hi,

normally racing 13.5 and last night tested a modified never had a so easy to drive car in modifiy stable and fast.

Have lack of middle and exit corner what should i test the car just the problem is when I push the throttle the front looks it is lift up and then the car just gos forward out of the corner.

thanks.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:47 PM   #1428
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Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
I still haven't recieved my kit yet, and i haven't even SEEN a BD5, ever, but after spending the week reading through the whole thread, i can say that the car is an improvement in handling and in durability. Also, now that Amains has support in the US, parts for the BD7 will be easier to get, and i'm sure you can get BD5 parts. There are also parts that are carry overs to the BD7 from the BD5, i remember reading something about the arms, rear carriers, the front C hubs from a BD5 fit on the BD7, but are more prone to break.
I also have read through the entire thread and the BD5 thread as well. But no one is been able to say for sure that their BD7 is faster than their old BD5 by let say 2 tenths per lap for example.

But you are right, the BD7 doesn't seem to have much breakage problems so far.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:34 PM   #1429
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I also have read through the entire thread and the BD5 thread as well. But no one is been able to say for sure that their BD7 is faster than their old BD5 by let say 2 tenths per lap for example.

But you are right, the BD7 doesn't seem to have much breakage problems so far.
You can't base on what people said about any TC..you just have to test the car yourself.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:35 PM   #1430
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I have both the BD5WX and the BD7. The BD5WX comes with all of the graphite arms, front knuckles and rear hubs in the kit. This makes the car stiffer out of the box. I use this car presently on carpet. I am still musing the standard 3.5 toe blocks FF and FR on the BD5WX. With the 6.4 rear toe block.

My BD7 is fitted with the plastic arms, front knuckles and rear hubs which I find suits our lower grip asphalt tracks. I am using the Tamiya DCJ's on this car with no issues. I have found them to be more durable than the Yokomo ones.

The best part about the two cars is they both use the same arms, knuckles, hubs, drive shafts, belts, spool and rear diff. The front front toe block and rear rear toe blocks are the same on both cars.

The BD7 c hubs will fit on the BD5 which makes for a stronger c hub, however these are plastic and not graphite. I believe the new c hubs are being released in graphite in the future.

I like both cars and can not tell you which is faster on the track as they are run in different classes and on different surfaces.

I am building a BD7 with all of the graphite parts minus the c hubs for TITC non boosted 13.5 next year. I am looking forward to running the car at RC Addict at this event on a high grip track. We have to run GT style bodies limited to Tamiya and HPI body shells.

To me all cars can be made to work, however you need to find a setup that works for your own individual driving style and the surface you are running on.

Later,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 12-28-2012 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:48 PM   #1431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
Can someone explain whats the point on installing BD-010RW Rear double joint universal shafts in the rear of, well, any car? other than having more moving parts to break, i really can't see how a regular CVD wouldn't work as well for the limited suspension movement the rear hubs and arms do...

I know all of the top guys use them, but what's the reason? It should not change the way the car handles, i get how the steering would work better, but in the rear?...
Tested back to back on carpet with a T4 and made a big difference in the way the back of the car rolls. The back of the car rolls a lot more with the dcj's fitted.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:58 PM   #1432
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Thanks for the info Xpress. I might try a set of rear DCJ's on both my cars.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:48 PM   #1433
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
I have both the BD5WX and the BD7. The BD5WX comes with all of the graphite arms, front knuckles and rear hubs in the kit. This makes the car stiffer out of the box. I use this car presently on carpet. I am still musing the standard 3.5 toe blocks FF and FR on the BD5WX. With the 6.4 rear toe block.

My BD7 is fitted with the plastic arms, front knuckles and rear hubs which I find suits our lower grip asphalt tracks. I am using the Tamiya DCJ's on this car with no issues. I have found them to be more durable than the Yokomo ones.

The best part about the two cars is they both use the same arms, knuckles, hubs, drive shafts, belts, spool and rear diff. The front front toe block and rear rear toe blocks are the same on both cars.

The BD7 c hubs will fit on the BD5 which makes for a stronger c hub, however these are plastic and not graphite. I believe the new c hubs are being released in graphite in the future.

I like both cars and can not tell you which is faster on the track as they are run in different classes and on different surfaces.

I am building a BD7 with all of the graphite parts minus the c hubs for TITC non boosted 13.5 next year. I am looking forward to running the car at RC Addict at this event on a high grip track. We have to run GT style bodies limited to Tamiya and HPI body shells.

To me all cars can be made to work, however you need to find a setup that works for your own individual driving style and the surface you are running on.

Later,

Calvin.
Thanks Calvin. Those are really great info even though it doesn't directly compare the two cars. And yes, I also believe all cars can be made to work.

Oh I just realized that the floating servo mount is not included in the BD7 kit from looking at the manual. Is that true? The picture on the box has it though...
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:37 AM   #1434
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gom,

Some shops are including the aluminium servo holder with the kit and others are making you purchase it as a seperate part. Both of my kits included the part. I also ordered the extra split blocks for my car, as a tuning option.

I may even see if it will fit my BD5WX. Never know unless I try.

Later,

Calvin.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:52 AM   #1435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
gom,

Some shops are including the aluminium servo holder with the kit and others are making you purchase it as a seperate part. Both of my kits included the part. I also ordered the extra split blocks for my car, as a tuning option.

I may even see if it will fit my BD5WX. Never know unless I try.

Later,

Calvin.
Someone has fitted it already. Saw the post in this thread. You will have to drill a new hole for the locating lug that is on the bottom of the mount for it to fit
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:57 AM   #1436
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Thanks Dan. I was just going to file the locating lug off.

I found the post in the BD5 thread. Might try it in the future.

Last edited by caltek1; 12-29-2012 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:11 AM   #1437
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Thanks Dan. I was just going to file the locating lug off.

Was it you? Is it in the BD5 thread?
nah I'm to lazy for it to be me. Going to do it soon as the BD5 is coming with me to NZ.
maybe its in the 5 thread
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Last edited by Hugh Jazz; 12-29-2012 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:33 AM   #1438
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as any one got hi res scan of bd7 decal sheet or know what fonts are used
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:02 PM   #1439
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Some guys are saying their shocks are leaking, as anyone tried TRF shocks with the yokomo springs on this car yet to see if it's more consistent?
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:17 PM   #1440
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Some guys are saying their shocks are leaking, as anyone tried TRF shocks with the yokomo springs on this car yet to see if it's more consistent?
Leaking?

I use the black bladder and blue seal on the bottom and haven't had one leak.

Not that I had a leak with the clear bladder and black seal but still.

I haven't played with all the cars shocks but I would put these in the top of the class hands down with my experience. I've had the car since the first run.
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