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Old 12-11-2012, 08:47 PM   #1216
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Hey guys ...parts way through my build and after taking the rear diff apart and filling it ....i find i can really feel the gears and its not as smooth as any other diff i built.....did anyone here find the need to sand down the back of the gears a touch maybe to give it a smoother feel or is that how this particular diff should feel.....thanks
I have an older original Yok gear diff for my EX BD5. However, the newer gear diff that came with the BD7 doesnt seem to be smoother than then older Yok gear diff when I first built it with same gear diff oil grade.

However, the Yok gear diff is way off better than the Spec R type.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:19 PM   #1217
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Who all is going to birds?

Does anyone have a good starting point for 13.5 blinky or at least a commonly run spur gear size? Track is 90x60 straight is maybe 60 feet.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:52 PM   #1218
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The yokomo gear diff is usually great... Everybody who ever builded a tamiya gear diff should know that...

Iīve ordered the kyosho p5 o-rings to stop the leaking... Itīs more like a pornstar when you pull the trigger and want to go hard... Always wet...

Still playing around a little bit with the shocks... Tested the car with the Völker basic setup but without his shock settings...

I also tested the 0,5 to 0,5 wheelbase in front... In modified it makes the car easier to drive, but you loose not that much steering!

Iīve ordered the original 1mm shock pistons and will give it a try with MM450 oil, iīve always runned 1,1mm pistons with MM500 oil, but oil flow is a bit different when you using 1mm pistons and you canīt really compare this to a shock with thicker oil and bigger piston holes... So lets see! I mean Ronald and Umino know their skills!

And also iīm testing around with the t-shox! I think i will use them instead of the normal shocks once iīve get a good setup with these!

At least the basic setup is tweaked now!
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:07 PM   #1219
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Who all is going to birds?

Does anyone have a good starting point for 13.5 blinky or at least a commonly run spur gear size? Track is 90x60 straight is maybe 60 feet.
Most of the guys running 13.5 blinky at our track (96x40) run a 4.1-4.3 fdr. I use the same spur that i use for 17.5 blinky (96)
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #1220
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Most of the guys running 13.5 blinky at our track (96x40) run a 4.1-4.3 fdr. I use the same spur that i use for 17.5 blinky (96)
Thanks man. That's what most of us are gearing out 17.5s at on the current lay out I'm at a 3.96. Do you think a 4.5 would be a decent place to start? Our straight is not even a straight. Stock vs mod times are less than .4 fast lap to fast lap.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:16 PM   #1221
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Originally Posted by Philipp1990 View Post
The yokomo gear diff is usually great... Everybody who ever builded a tamiya gear diff should know that...

Iīve ordered the kyosho p5 o-rings to stop the leaking... Itīs more like a pornstar when you pull the trigger and want to go hard... Always wet...

Still playing around a little bit with the shocks... Tested the car with the Völker basic setup but without his shock settings...

I also tested the 0,5 to 0,5 wheelbase in front... In modified it makes the car easier to drive, but you loose not that much steering!

Iīve ordered the original 1mm shock pistons and will give it a try with MM450 oil, iīve always runned 1,1mm pistons with MM500 oil, but oil flow is a bit different when you using 1mm pistons and you canīt really compare this to a shock with thicker oil and bigger piston holes... So lets see! I mean Ronald and Umino know their skills!

And also iīm testing around with the t-shox! I think i will use them instead of the normal shocks once iīve get a good setup with these!

At least the basic setup is tweaked now!
p5 and p4 oring is same ?
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:23 PM   #1222
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Thanks man. That's what most of us are gearing out 17.5s at on the current lay out I'm at a 3.96. Do you think a 4.5 would be a decent place to start? Our straight is not even a straight. Stock vs mod times are less than .4 fast lap to fast lap.
4.5 would be fine. We have a guy who runs 4.7 with some motors and is fast ,just remember to check temps fist few times .
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:37 PM   #1223
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p5 and p4 oring is same ?
No, they are different sizes.

I can not get my shocks to stay air free for more than a few days. They are sucking air from the bottom. I've replaced the o rings, bushings etc. very irritating.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:37 PM   #1224
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4.5 would be fine. We have a guy who runs 4.7 with some motors and is fast ,just remember to check temps fist few times .
Thanks man.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:56 AM   #1225
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No, they are different sizes.

I can not get my shocks to stay air free for more than a few days. They are sucking air from the bottom. I've replaced the o rings, bushings etc. very irritating.
Same. Did you vent your shock cap? I'm gonna try that next.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:04 AM   #1226
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Same. Did you vent your shock cap? I'm gonna try that next.
Not yet. I almost want to just buy some trf shocks and be done.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:10 AM   #1227
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I'm curious about the T-Shox myself.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:30 AM   #1228
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I'm curious about the T-Shox myself.
I am as well, however the $100+ price tag might be a deal breaker. If I can continue to use my yoko springs I might be in.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:55 AM   #1229
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Not yet. I almost want to just buy some trf shocks and be done.
When you use that sticky icky original O-Ring that comes with the TRF Dampers... You might have a shock thatīs air free for more then one week...

If you use the blue trf o-rings or x-rings, they also leak!

But every good shock in rc-racing must have a little bit of leakage...

Build them before you race... Thatīs how i made it for a long time now!

Or buy t-shox! they donīt suck the air in because there is no bladder...

But whatīs the deal? you need maybe 10 minutes to build fine dampers if you having an air pump!

And you will have a car thats drive exactly the same every time! Shocks are the most important thing on a car. So why do you think the pros rebuild their shocks maybe five times a day? ;-)

And with the T-Shox you can use every spring you want... You donīt need the t-springs! I use the yokomo pink front and blue rear combination by myself, works great! ;-)

They donīt make you faster for one lap (maybe a little bit!)... BUT! They are consistent, and thatīs the fact! Racing is not about the fastest lap, but about the time after 5minutes!
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:12 AM   #1230
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Originally Posted by Philipp1990 View Post
When you use that sticky icky original O-Ring that comes with the TRF Dampers... You might have a shock thatīs air free for more then one week...

If you use the blue trf o-rings or x-rings, they also leak!

But every good shock in rc-racing must have a little bit of leakage...

Build them before you race... Thatīs how i made it for a long time now!

Or buy t-shox! they donīt suck the air in because there is no bladder...

But whatīs the deal? you need maybe 10 minutes to build fine dampers if you having an air pump!

And you will have a car thats drive exactly the same every time! Shocks are the most important thing on a car. So why do you think the pros rebuild their shocks maybe five times a day? ;-)

And with the T-Shox you can use every spring you want... You donīt need the t-springs! I use the yokomo pink front and blue rear combination by myself, works great! ;-)

They donīt make you faster for one lap (maybe a little bit!)... BUT! They are consistent, and thatīs the fact! Racing is not about the fastest lap, but about the time after 5minutes!
Point proven. I really should get one of the ride air pumps and just be done with it. Have you tried the 3x1.0s with 450 yet?
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