8LikesYOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
12-06-2012, 08:09 AM
#1171
wouldn't shorting the wheel base make the car less stable on turning? I thought making the wheel base longer will smoothen out the car a little?
Has any one tried using the forward most mounting holes for steering rack to change the ackerman to smoothen out the car on flowing corners?
Has any one tried using the forward most mounting holes for steering rack to change the ackerman to smoothen out the car on flowing corners?
12-07-2012, 12:22 AM
#1178
wouldn't shorting the wheel base make the car less stable on turning? I thought making the wheel base longer will smoothen out the car a little?
Has any one tried using the forward most mounting holes for steering rack to change the ackerman to smoothen out the car on flowing corners?
Has any one tried using the forward most mounting holes for steering rack to change the ackerman to smoothen out the car on flowing corners?
Havnt tried the forward ackerman holes in the chassis but have had 1mm to 2mm behind the steering link ballstuds to move them forward more.
12-07-2012, 12:02 PM
#1182
It's almost as if the pins are too short. They weren't breaking, just coming out during an impact. I'm gonna revisit making the Tamiya DCJ's work.
I finally broke a c-hub last night. I think I caught an axle on a flapper.
I didn't have a great night with the car to be honest. I was chasing electronics issues all night (turned out to be a sensor wire) and that kinda put me behind the curve making setup adjustments. The grip was up and I thought the car was worse for it. Pushed a bit in the sections where I needed a lot of steering. I need to spend some time working on the setup in higher traction.
I finally broke a c-hub last night. I think I caught an axle on a flapper.
I didn't have a great night with the car to be honest. I was chasing electronics issues all night (turned out to be a sensor wire) and that kinda put me behind the curve making setup adjustments. The grip was up and I thought the car was worse for it. Pushed a bit in the sections where I needed a lot of steering. I need to spend some time working on the setup in higher traction.
12-07-2012, 12:15 PM
#1183
It's almost as if the pins are too short. They weren't breaking, just coming out during an impact. I'm gonna revisit making the Tamiya DCJ's work.
I finally broke a c-hub last night. I think I caught an axle on a flapper.
I didn't have a great night with the car to be honest. I was chasing electronics issues all night (turned out to be a sensor wire) and that kinda put me behind the curve making setup adjustments. The grip was up and I thought the car was worse for it. Pushed a bit in the sections where I needed a lot of steering. I need to spend some time working on the setup in higher traction.
I finally broke a c-hub last night. I think I caught an axle on a flapper.
I didn't have a great night with the car to be honest. I was chasing electronics issues all night (turned out to be a sensor wire) and that kinda put me behind the curve making setup adjustments. The grip was up and I thought the car was worse for it. Pushed a bit in the sections where I needed a lot of steering. I need to spend some time working on the setup in higher traction.
In my case pin failures were not an issue, but rather just wear from heavy usage running mod 2x per week for 2-3 months at a time. Usually at this point it's time to rebuild the unit. The coupling is usually the part I do not need to replace.
12-07-2012, 12:20 PM
#1184
Our XRAY DCJs/ TC6 V2 DCJs will arrive in like 10 days. We will sell the parts separately. The coupling is interchangeable with the yokomo ones and it uses captured pins. We have a guy locally running them and he has had success with changing the parts over. I have been running the V2 DCJs in my RSD6 for about 3 months running modified on the same set of DCJs. Karl Hoffmeister ran the Proto XRAYs for a good while with great success in blinky 13.5 and 17.5 with even a little bit of mod in there.
In my case pin failures were not an issue, but rather just wear from heavy usage running mod 2x per week for 2-3 months at a time. Usually at this point it's time to rebuild the unit. The coupling is usually the part I do not need to replace.
In my case pin failures were not an issue, but rather just wear from heavy usage running mod 2x per week for 2-3 months at a time. Usually at this point it's time to rebuild the unit. The coupling is usually the part I do not need to replace.
12-07-2012, 12:34 PM
#1185
Syndrome, that is correct. The diameter should be nearly identical to the Yoke unis. There is going to be a little bit bigger diameter just at the point where the clips are, but this is a total of maybe 1mm more overall and usually at a point where they are not in the way of hitting, at least nothing was mentioned to me by the person running them in the Yokomo. I have personally not measured the Yokomo units, but I know they work.
For what it's worth, the XRAY, RSD and Yokomo Universals have interchangeable parts, they all have the same measurements. When we designed ours, I kid you not, the dimensions were practically identical to the XRAY units and we DID NOT EVER measure the XRAY ones. It was pretty weird. Come to find out, the Yokomo ones are the same way.
For what it's worth, the XRAY, RSD and Yokomo Universals have interchangeable parts, they all have the same measurements. When we designed ours, I kid you not, the dimensions were practically identical to the XRAY units and we DID NOT EVER measure the XRAY ones. It was pretty weird. Come to find out, the Yokomo ones are the same way.