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Old 12-30-2016, 12:49 PM   #7351
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The belts are bd-189/516 and the motor mount support looks exactly the same from the 14 manual. I'm thinking I had the original 14 upper deck then?

Alternatively I guess I could run this current deck without adding the screw for the motor mount support as it seems naoto did this in his 15?
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Old 12-30-2016, 02:50 PM   #7352
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I suppose it's better to have a upper deck lol.

Here's a picture of high traction deck vs FMC.
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YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7-img_7647.jpg  
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:43 PM   #7353
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2014 Yokomo BD7

I found the original ad but also asked the original owner and he forgot. To me it looks like the original 14 deck because the opening of the section towards the motor mount screw/clearance from the spur looks different (more triangular) to the fmc?
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:21 PM   #7354
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I have a 14 and I'm a running a 2016 upper deck on it. I would go ahead and order an upper deck and run what you have for now. I have all the bd5 through Bd8 and for some reason I don't know what I did with my bd7 2013, I don't remember but now that I'm thinking about it that could be possibly a 2013 upper shown in your pic. B7-003 is the part number for the 2013 upper and -003 is the designation for upper deck. B7-00314 is what you're looking for.

Picture shown is 2013 upper.

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Old 12-30-2016, 07:33 PM   #7355
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Was thinking that too re the 13 deck. Yep I'll get the 14 deck, thanks again!
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:49 AM   #7356
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Does anyone know if the aluminum chassis from my 14 work with the 16 conversion kit ?
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:24 PM   #7357
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Hi guys, I'm new to RCT and I'm diving in head first. I fly helis at least try to and fly quads, hexs etc. I used to race many years ago back when there was really only Tamiya and Associated RC10s. I have the urge to drive again.
So I bought a really nice 2014 BD7 Black Edition roller with no electrics. I know this is gonna upset a lot of people but I'm gonna be running it in parking lots and the like. I discovered recently that I live in the land of no tracks, ANYWHERE! I love nice these luxury cars ie. BD7, T2,3,4 etc. and if I can't run on a track I still would like to enjoy a nice TC.
My question is what is a good motor/esc to get and gearing. I want to be able to go fast. I apologize for being long winded.
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:39 PM   #7358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchota View Post
Hi guys, I'm new to RCT and I'm diving in head first. I fly helis at least try to and fly quads, hexs etc. I used to race many years ago back when there was really only Tamiya and Associated RC10s. I have the urge to drive again.
So I bought a really nice 2014 BD7 Black Edition roller with no electrics. I know this is gonna upset a lot of people but I'm gonna be running it in parking lots and the like. I discovered recently that I live in the land of no tracks, ANYWHERE! I love nice these luxury cars ie. BD7, T2,3,4 etc. and if I can't run on a track I still would like to enjoy a nice TC.
My question is what is a good motor/esc to get and gearing. I want to be able to go fast. I apologize for being long winded.

Hello! Welcome to the car part of r/c!

I would first of all recommend tou change the spur gear and pinion to 48pitch instead of standard 64pitch. Pitch stand for how far and big the gears are compaired to 64pitch wich is much finer and more sensitive to small rocks and bits.

If we are talking parking lot, i think all of trackstar esc, motor(red can with no holes in it) and nanotech batterys. They will get you up to speed fast. Dont forget to buy program box with your trackstar esc if you buy one so you can fine tune it.

As to what hearing depends on how strong motor you want!

Good luck! Cheers//
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:53 PM   #7359
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Thanks Andy, I'm still trying to wrap my head around motor sizes and gear ratios too. I know KV better than T from helis and quads. From what I understand the lower the "T" like 4.5T is faster than a higher turn motor. Since 540s are predominantly using "T" what would be a good motor? I was guessing 7.5 - 10.5T motor but what does that translate into for KV? Also gear ratios, do I just buy a bunch of spur gear and change them out until the engine temp is good?

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Old 01-03-2017, 11:02 PM   #7360
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Originally Posted by ponchota View Post
Thanks Andy, I'm still trying to wrap my head around motor sizes and gear ratios too. I know KV better than T from helis and quads. From what I understand the lower the "T" like 4.5T is faster than a higher turn motor. Since 540s are predominantly using "T" what would be a good motor? I was guessing 7.5 - 10.5T motor but what does that translate into for KV? Also gear ratios, do I just buy a bunch of spur gear and change them out until the engine temp is good?
Yes, the lower the "T" is the faster motor. In the fastest class modified we use 4.5t motors and they are stupidly fast. I would recommend between 6.5 and 10.5. KV is not so important i this case as i think all 120A esc's can handle a 3.5T.

You stay with the same spur gear value you find is good, and then you just change the pinion wich is easier becuse it is fastened on the motor axle.

Cheers//
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Old 01-04-2017, 12:17 AM   #7361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchota View Post
Thanks Andy, I'm still trying to wrap my head around motor sizes and gear ratios too. I know KV better than T from helis and quads. From what I understand the lower the "T" like 4.5T is faster than a higher turn motor. Since 540s are predominantly using "T" what would be a good motor? I was guessing 7.5 - 10.5T motor but what does that translate into for KV? Also gear ratios, do I just buy a bunch of spur gear and change them out until the engine temp is good?
All motors should mention their kv rating in their webpage but I wouldn't worry about that. If you're new to Rc cars then I probably wouldn't go quicker than a 9t especially for the bd7. The faster motor you have the easier chance you'll break something and also the battery is exposed versus a cheaper Rc that may use a tub chassis such as a Tamiya tt01 /02.

If you're experienced in soldering then go for something from hobby king, if not get a hobby wing 9t combo. This is what I started with in my first Rc car. Only negative with this is that it's a sensorless combo, it's not as smooth as sensored but apparently better for brute power, or so I've read...

Check out petitrc to see what people have set with gear ratios for 10.5 /13.5 motors
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Old 01-04-2017, 06:21 AM   #7362
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Thanks guys, soldering isn't an issue. If your gonna build quads, hexs' and FPV you need to be able to solder. Especially micro soldering. I think I would like to go with something like a 7.5T motor I'd like it to be fast but also have a decent runtime. Since I don't have any tracks nearby and I don't know anybody that's into R/C . I'm just gonna do this for my pleasure. I'd love to learn the intricacies of tweaking this car but I don't think it's gonna be of big benefit since I'm in parking lots etc. I'm a huge tweaker and modifier, I enjoy that just as much as I love to fly and now drive.
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Old 01-04-2017, 07:52 PM   #7363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchota View Post
Thanks guys, soldering isn't an issue. If your gonna build quads, hexs' and FPV you need to be able to solder. Especially micro soldering. I think I would like to go with something like a 7.5T motor I'd like it to be fast but also have a decent runtime. Since I don't have any tracks nearby and I don't know anybody that's into R/C . I'm just gonna do this for my pleasure. I'd love to learn the intricacies of tweaking this car but I don't think it's gonna be of big benefit since I'm in parking lots etc. I'm a huge tweaker and modifier, I enjoy that just as much as I love to fly and now drive.
if you plan to race, check the rules of your local club to be sure you buy the correct motor and ESC so you can participate. If you plan to race in a slower class then eventually move up, it's worthwhile spending the extra for a better ESC then just changing the motor later on rather than a cheap combo that under performs and will replace when you move up. batteries to be considered as consumables, replace if it bloats or if IR goes too high.

Same rule goes with quads and helis for touring cars, you buy right, you buy once and your gear will last for years
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Old 01-05-2017, 05:27 AM   #7364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchota View Post
Thanks guys, soldering isn't an issue. If your gonna build quads, hexs' and FPV you need to be able to solder. Especially micro soldering. I think I would like to go with something like a 7.5T motor I'd like it to be fast but also have a decent runtime. Since I don't have any tracks nearby and I don't know anybody that's into R/C . I'm just gonna do this for my pleasure. I'd love to learn the intricacies of tweaking this car but I don't think it's gonna be of big benefit since I'm in parking lots etc. I'm a huge tweaker and modifier, I enjoy that just as much as I love to fly and now drive.
Good luck mate! I think a 7.5T will be great! It's fast but not too fast. It's easy to just turn down throttle on the transmitter anyway

Enjoy your Yokomo and if you have more questions, don't be afraid to ask

Cheers//
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Old 01-05-2017, 07:08 AM   #7365
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Thanks for your help and advice Gents! Did not fall on deaf ears. Much appreciated. MikeGar, I dream of racing but New Hampshire is a ghost town for tracks. Hobby Stores are almost the same. Closest one is Hobby Town and we all know that's more of a Toy store than a true RC store. I would love to open something up but I wouldn't know where or how to start.

Any tips or lining up and reaming holes for body posts? It came with a body but I want to give it my personal touch. There's a nice Caddy 190mm TC body but I want to hold out until ProtoForm comes out with the new 190mm Ford GT body. They have a 200mm but I don't think that will fit properly.

Cheers and a Happy New Year to ALL!

Last edited by ponchota; 01-05-2017 at 08:40 AM.
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