CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Cool, I appreciate it. If you have any further questions about Yokomo, or any other thing in general, don't hesitate to contact me directly.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

No diff leaks 14-16
Imo, Yokomo shocks are some of the best
If coming from Tamiya, Yokomo will seem unbelievably sturdy, it is actually a very robust car in all aspects
Any car can be broken, even Xray

Amain is both distributor & retailer of Yokomo in the USA
Parts are also readily available at TQRC, and ReflexRacing

evochick

iTrader: (5)

I need some setup help because I just cant get a set of tyres hooked up
This is now the second year where I have struggled at this event trying to get these 36 compound tyres to work, During a practice meet just out of curiosity I threw a set of 32 tyres on because they are what I usually use and the car was magic, happily 2nd quickest car out there very consistent to drive (0.1s overall) and really good corner speed. I then threw the 36's back on and 0.5-0.8 seconds a lap slower and well off the pace with a car that's horrible to drive to boot, just no rear grip, horrible turn in and push everywhere.

now I have slept on it I have made some changes for the event in 2 weeks that I think will help, just wanted a second and 3rd opinion as I am still terrible at setting up cars after all these years (ill admit it)

Setup from the 32's attached.

I am only racing now for fun but this is seriously doing my head in.... and making it not fun

porsche928gs

I think your shock oil is too thick.I would use 400 all around. Shimm links evenly front and rear .5mm otb
.5mm inb. -2deg camber all around

WEEZY

iTrader: (11)

Has anyone found away to make a tape eliminator?

Damon

try softer springs

4 HPI blue or X-Gear, Pink in front and Red in rear, very very soft but it works

Wacker1

I'd go Softer on the Springs too, possibly run a Harder Spring on the Front than the Rear!
I'd also look at going to 3 Degree Rear Toe as well!

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Move front arms back, both .5mm shims in front (more rear grip)
3* rear toe (more rear grip)
450wt oil (good base)

The rest looks like a good base setting for asphalt

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Your droop is way off. You need to limit it to get heat into the harder tires. When my car is using harder tires like that I limit the up travel and run 6.5 Front and 6.0 Rear as a baseline and play with rear droop to match track conditions. More droop for more rotation and vis versa. Everything else on your setup is ok and won't make too much of a difference.

On hard tires you may also want to run at least 1mm Ackerman shim to get that aggressive steering response back.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Evochick -

- You should look at running the short neck ball studs. This will give you more camber gain options
- Drop down to second hole on the shock tower for the front and rear.
- Differential oil 1500 or 2000
- Increase rear toe to 3.0 degrees
- Droop 6 mm front and 5 mm rear measure under arm
- Oil 400-450
- Softer Rear sway bar 1.1
- Camber -1.5 front and 2.0 rear

That's all.

Oh, run a regular weight body.

Rodney Racer

iTrader: (1)

Cristian, besides the obvious, what is the reason for these spacers? Thanks

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

It changes the flex characteristic slightly on the car. Not having the motor mount post or the steering bridge post create a non-interference flex on the top deck. This is good for some set ups when using Aluminum chassis or running on large out door tracks. The XRAY guys do it, and they all seem to like it.

To be honest, I never liked it on the XRAY, I did however use them when I used the center post in front of the motor mount. Our aluminum chassis was designed to be used with the layshaft screws on that car, so it was never too stiff. Now on the new Yokomo, it has a similar effect. As it is a slightly different motor mount, I actually use it to get a little more twist out of the rear and generate more rotation when the car is too stuck.

We just made some 0.5mm shims for the '16 that have a little extra clearance for the belt without having to space the mount up. I think this might be an easier to use solution. The other configuration might be better for low bite asphalt to generate more body roll.

Migigu

@ evochick

Body Ltc-R LW with a harder ones spoilers with flaps (Yokomo, MR33)

Tyres additive, CS Tire Max Grip Asphalt. Heating with clingfilm 40 min 65 Celsius

Rear Diff go to 10000 cst wiht 1.2gramm plus 2 Toe Angle Rear (possibly a different direction, makes the curve no longer so unpredictable, my impression. Important Toe and oil must be tested together)

Wheelhubs front 4.5mm (Rounder steering, a small steering less)

front roll center Shim 0.5 going to 0 and rear go to 0.5-1mm

going droop 5.8-6 front

Damper I would sometimes go with 1 Blue O-ring (feels for me more incredible on) 450-500 oil is good and HPI Sylver should really go to the most event.

Which turne engines do you use?

acutts

Does the Bd7 16 kit come with blocks for 3 degree rear toe? Don't have my manual with me to check, if not anyone know what part no I need to get please many thanks

Brettlesss

iTrader: (7)

Comes kit with -3 rear toe.