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Old 12-02-2015, 08:06 AM   #6406
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Hi guys

any direct bolt-on parts (yokomo or other brands) you could point me to that would allow to limit the lateral movement of the battery pack but still fit on the split scotch tape alloy mounts?

I DNF'ed another main last weekend as I hit a board and the battery flew out / the tape broke. Not sure about which one is the chicken and which one is the egg but I know such L-shaped parts would certainly have prevented it

Please notice I never said I don't hit boards

Thanks,
Pauk
I use two removable strips of tape folded on itself and fixed to two vertical posts, one fore, one aft the battery, both higher than the battery. One strip goes over the battery top from one post to the other. I put two little pieces of PCB inside the end loops of the tape strip and drilled holes so the strap can go over the posts. Below this strap is the other one that goes around the side of the battery. This strap has two little aluminium tubes in the end loops, which slide on the posts. The top strap goes above (as already mentioned) and two body clips through the posts secure both in place. No battery has managed to escape yet, no matter how hard I crash.
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:23 AM   #6407
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Paul, make sure you file the alumnium battery holders a bit, this helps minimize the tape getting cut.
X-tian, will do L-brackets would certainly help anyway Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:24 AM   #6408
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
I use two removable strips of tape folded on itself and fixed to two vertical posts, one fore, one aft the battery, both higher than the battery. One strip goes over the battery top from one post to the other. I put two little pieces of PCB inside the end loops of the tape strip and drilled holes so the strap can go over the posts. Below this strap is the other one that goes around the side of the battery. This strap has two little aluminium tubes in the end loops, which slide on the posts. The top strap goes above (as already mentioned) and two body clips through the posts secure both in place. No battery has managed to escape yet, no matter how hard I crash.
I will read it a third time to see if I finally understand it

(I hit boards AND I'm thick-necked!!!)

Thanks

Paul
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:52 AM   #6409
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My program, is simple

2 layers of tape for 300g packs
1 layer for 150g packs

Always round any edges that may contact tape

Lay tape down on clean setup board to layer, easiest way

Even if you don't board often, it's good to have insurance for any unforeseen obstacles
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Old 12-02-2015, 01:24 PM   #6410
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Default onroad beginners setup questions

hi,
could somebody pls explain me some parameters or volumes shown at setup:
1. O-rings 1 or 2 - is it a number of o-rings in shock?
2. On bones markings WJ or SJ, what the difference?
3. rear arms 41,5mm, 40,5mm and 39,5mm - how it can be changed only with hub thicknes or also other options are?
4. Shock towers - Low and Standard - is it two different towers aviliable or different mounting positions?
5. Diffs - Low and high...?

p.s. I bought my first bd7 15`(used)....first practice day will be on Sunday, as only on Saturday I`ll be able first time to hold this car on hands and prepare it for race I wish to find answers to undesrtand setup sheets parameters.

Hope to your help
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Old 12-02-2015, 03:02 PM   #6411
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1. Yes, number of o-rings used. (If you want to use 2, you need http://www.teamyokomo.eu/p3-o-ring-coller-thin as well)
2. WJ is a DCJ while SJ is a normal CVD (no idea what the letters stand for... SJ single joint, maybe, but WJ?)
3. IIRC it's only the position of the shock hole (and not many setups I've seen use anything but the standard 39.5mm arms)
4. Correct, there is a short shock conversion kit available for the '14 and '15 car with shorter shocks and lower shock towers
5. Depends on how you position the belt tensioner/diff holders in the bulkheads - you can make the diff run higher or lower in the bulkhead (not by much, it's a very minor adjustment)
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:27 AM   #6412
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part list bd7 16 with pics😊

interesting is alloy chassi and large damping holder

https://www.google.ch/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.teamyokomo.com/news/order_sheet/15/151130_mrtc_bd716_parts.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjy1bi0ub_JA hUCXRoKHSCAC6cQFggnMAQ&usg=AFQjCNE6XKHQDZL3W-VgZ6IET9xVbqF4mA&sig2=Yf-u7Juw_jKPivNEeFE-3A

And manual here inkl. Setup sheet

http://teamyokomo.com/download/manual/mrtc_bd716manual_e_151201.pdf
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:59 AM   #6413
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Thanks Migigu, looks like the steering bell cranks have been altered slightly too, the change will allow a bit more space for the belt to pass. Also, the steering bridge seems to have done away with the bearings and now has collars over the screws...

Don't think these two parts are in the conversion kit, although they are not vital by any stretch. Possibly done so that the conversion kit price stays low(ish) lol.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:31 AM   #6414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bar View Post
The BD713 was a very well received car here in the UK, it even won a round of the BRCA national series in the hands of Elliot Harper.
Elliott has never run for Yokomo.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:06 AM   #6415
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Originally Posted by Bigger Brother View Post
Elliott has never run for Yokomo.
Did Elliot not run a Yoke for a meet or two as a privateer before getting the Durango gig? May be wrong, but like Luke, I'm sure I recall a race and/or win with a Yoke.

Either way, doesn't really matter does it lol
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:41 AM   #6416
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Yes he ran it at rugrscers after he left tamiya
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:10 AM   #6417
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Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
1. Yes, number of o-rings used. (If you want to use 2, you need http://www.teamyokomo.eu/p3-o-ring-coller-thin as well)
2. WJ is a DCJ while SJ is a normal CVD (no idea what the letters stand for... SJ single joint, maybe, but WJ?)
3. IIRC it's only the position of the shock hole (and not many setups I've seen use anything but the standard 39.5mm arms)
4. Correct, there is a short shock conversion kit available for the '14 and '15 car with shorter shocks and lower shock towers
5. Depends on how you position the belt tensioner/diff holders in the bulkheads - you can make the diff run higher or lower in the bulkhead (not by much, it's a very minor adjustment)
Thank You Dirk!

btw...is it possible to use lower towers with normal shocks?
at this setup http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/yok...Arena20141123/
is it mistake where type of shocks are written standard, but towers are low ones, how do you think?
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:58 PM   #6418
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Originally Posted by Bigger Brother View Post
Elliott has never run for Yokomo.
Maybe I'm wrong but I was told that he ran it before Durango and won at the Cotswolds with it, people made jokes early on that the early prototype Durango was an orange Yokomo, maybe I'm wrong!
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:02 PM   #6419
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From looking at the manual it looks like they have ditched the big black o-ring that helped seal the diff better.
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Old 12-04-2015, 01:11 PM   #6420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardijs View Post
Thank You Dirk!

btw...is it possible to use lower towers with normal shocks?
at this setup http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/yok...Arena20141123/
is it mistake where type of shocks are written standard, but towers are low ones, how do you think?
You're welcome.

I don't have the short shock conversion for my '14 or '15, so I am not really sure about the size differences, but I doubt it would work. So my guess would be, that that sheet is indeed a little off on this detail, but I could be wrong. Sorry, no definite answer here.
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