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Old 11-09-2015, 05:19 PM   #6286
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An awesome setup and worth giving a try! The local fast guy at my track gave me this setup when I was struggling with rear grip. I have used this setup with great success. It's very easy,stable and fast to drive. Though, I did switched out the Blue Yokomo springs for X-Gear Silver and droop to 2.0 front and 2.5 rear. Also have holes in the shock caps.

Switch out to blue blue springs
No front sweep 3.5 3.5
Rear toe 3.0 degrees
Front Toe 0 degree

Basically, look at the setup below and you should be 90% there. I would test and tune with springs and droop.
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Old 11-09-2015, 05:27 PM   #6287
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
An awesome setup and worth giving a try! The local fast guy at my track gave me this setup when I was struggling with rear grip. I have used this setup with great success. It's very easy,stable and fast to drive. Though, I did switched out the Blue Yokomo springs for X-Gear Silver and droop to 2.0 front and 2.5 rear. Also have holes in the shock caps.
Awesome... Thanks for the setup sheet! I'm new to the bd7 world but I'm getting the hang of it. I have a rookie race this weekend and hope my car performs well. What kind of track are you running on Edward2003?
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Old 11-09-2015, 05:49 PM   #6288
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Originally Posted by Gel2al2d View Post
Awesome... Thanks for the setup sheet! I'm new to the bd7 world but I'm getting the hang of it. I have a rookie race this weekend and hope my car performs well. What kind of track are you running on Edward2003?
You're welcome.
Since you're new. I have a few questions for you.

Have you balanced your chassis left and right? That is, electronics and battery?
- You can do this with chassis setup pins.

Have you built your shocks the same length? Same rebound?
- I personally don't run rebound my shocks. I drill a small hole in the shock cap.

Have you built your chassis so that it is tweak free?
- Loosened the top deck, bulkhead, shock tower, motor mount screws and re-tighten them on the flat surface?

Have you set your droop the same height LEFT and RIGHT?
- Front and Rear will be different. 5 mm rear and 6 mm front using ride height gauge under outer pin on suspension arm.

Have you adjusted the spring pre-load collars the same distance left and right?
- Front and Rear will be different distances. Also adjust for desired ride height. Try to make them the same after ride height has been set.

Have you adjusted the spring pre-load collars to accommodate for any suspension tweak? You can check this with a 1.5 mm hex wrench. Have your car ''race ready'' on a flat level surface. There are two little holes drilled front and rear on lower chassis. Place the hex wrench in front of or behind this hole. Then lift up the chassis until the wheels lift off the ground. Now, keep an eye on which wheel front wheel lifts off first. The wheel that lifts off first is the light side.

I'm a little busy at the moment to go any further.

Maybe some guys can help with describing what to do next.
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Old 11-09-2015, 05:58 PM   #6289
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
You're welcome.
Since you're new. I have a few questions for you.

Have you balanced your chassis left and right? That is, electronics and battery?
- You can do this with chassis setup pins.

Have you built your shocks the same length? Same rebound?
- I personally don't run rebound my shocks. I drill a small hole in the shock cap.

Have you built your chassis so that it is tweak free?
- Loosened the top deck, bulkhead, shock tower, motor mount screws and re-tighten them on the flat surface?

Have you set your droop the same height LEFT and RIGHT?
- Front and Rear will be different. 5 mm rear and 6 mm front using ride height gauge under outer pin on suspension arm.

Have you adjusted the spring pre-load collars the same distance left and right?
- Front and Rear will be different distances. Also adjust for desired ride height. Try to make them the same after ride height has been set.

Have you adjusted the spring pre-load collars to accommodate for any suspension tweak? You can check this with a 1.5 mm hex wrench. Have your car ''race ready'' on a flat level surface. There are two little holes drilled front and rear on lower chassis. Place the hex wrench in front of or behind this hole. Then lift up the chassis until the wheels lift off the ground. Now, keep an eye on which wheel front wheel lifts off first. The wheel that lifts off first is the light side.

I'm a little busy at the moment to go any further.

Maybe some guys can help with describing what to do next.
First off if just like to thank you for taking your time to write all of that!

I did all of what you're saying except for the drilling of the hole in the suspension caps and balanced the chassis left and right. I tried to make everything as even as possible after changing all my oils. After changing my suspension oils I did however put full rebound in my shocks. Could that be the culprit of my car loosing traction out of the corners?
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:03 PM   #6290
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I have a 2014 bd7 and just recently changed my diff fluid to 7k and my shock oil to 40wt with full rebound. I now feel the car get loose when exiting a corner. Turning is dramatically changed but I don't like the loose back end feeling. What did I do wrong?

I currently race at Tq in chino and it is a carpeted track.
With the current layout at TQ , it's hard to imagine even a base setup being loose with a Yokomo
What tires are you running, how are you prepping them
Full rebound could be an issue, don't know of anyone that does that ?
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:08 PM   #6291
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With the current layout at TQ , it's hard to imagine even a base setup being loose with a Yokomo
What tires are you running, how are you prepping them
Full rebound could be an issue, don't know of anyone that does that ?

Thanks for chiming in rebullfixx, I didn't know I wasn't supposed to do full rebound. Haha like I said I'm a noob. I recently took a part the shocks again and did 25% to 0 rebound. I really hope that helps.
I'm saucing the tires 15-10 mins before going on the track and let it sit until it isn't wet anymore. Anything else you can tell me to try?

I currently have 7k oil in the diff and 40wt oil in all my shocks. Running pink springs in front and blues in the back.
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:18 PM   #6292
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Originally Posted by Gel2al2d View Post
Thanks for chiming in rebullfixx, I didn't know I wasn't supposed to do full rebound. Haha like I said I'm a noob. I recently took a part the shocks again and did 25% to 0 rebound. I really hope that helps.
I'm saucing the tires 15-10 mins before going on the track and let it sit until it isn't wet anymore. Anything else you can tell me to try?

I currently have 7k oil in the diff and 40wt oil in all my shocks. Running pink springs in front and blues in the back.
I was also out there this weekend on the 14 BD7, running Ride spec GT tires, tons of grip, super easy to drive
What tires are you on, and what body ?

Same springs, 450wt, 3k rear diff, spool front

Look me up next weekend

We'll get you sorted

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Old 11-09-2015, 07:27 PM   #6293
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Originally Posted by Gel2al2d View Post
Thanks for chiming in rebullfixx, I didn't know I wasn't supposed to do full rebound. Haha like I said I'm a noob. I recently took a part the shocks again and did 25% to 0 rebound. I really hope that helps.
I'm saucing the tires 15-10 mins before going on the track and let it sit until it isn't wet anymore. Anything else you can tell me to try?

I currently have 7k oil in the diff and 40wt oil in all my shocks. Running pink springs in front and blues in the back.
I assume you're talking about the rear diff, hence my puzzlement. Why would you run 7k? Is traction that great? Because by the sounds of it not really. Then again, by the sounds of it you might have other problems as well. I would however start at that diff and drop it down a notch (or five). Start with kit oil and tune the rest of the car and after that, if you find you need to, you can go up in oil weight, but for initial setup leave it like that. Next, get rid of that rebound. Then make sure you've got enough droop so car can actually roll (especially the rear). And so on.

Balancing and other things like that come last. They're just very fine adjustments which won't show any difference if you've got major problems elsewhere.
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:11 PM   #6294
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I was also out there this weekend on the 14 BD7, running Ride spec GT tires, tons of grip, super easy to drive
What tires are you on, and what body ?

Same springs, 450wt, 3k rear diff, spool front

Look me up next weekend

We'll get you sorted

Dave: aka rbf
Usually pit next to hobby shop
Thanks Dave!! I'll see you this Sunday for race day right? When do you usually practice?
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:13 PM   #6295
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I assume you're talking about the rear diff, hence my puzzlement. Why would you run 7k? Is traction that great? Because by the sounds of it not really. Then again, by the sounds of it you might have other problems as well. I would however start at that diff and drop it down a notch (or five). Start with kit oil and tune the rest of the car and after that, if you find you need to, you can go up in oil weight, but for initial setup leave it like that. Next, get rid of that rebound. Then make sure you've got enough droop so car can actually roll (especially the rear). And so on.

Balancing and other things like that come last. They're just very fine adjustments which won't show any difference if you've got major problems elsewhere.
I ran the 7k diff oil because when disassembling the rear diff I found that the initial viscosity was very thick and comparable to 7k or even thicker. I have since went down to 2k to try it out. Haven't had time to go to the track yet tho. I also took out rebound in the shocks.

I'll take all your words of wisdom and sort all this out the next time I get on the track. Hopefully it's before race day.
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:36 PM   #6296
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Originally Posted by Gel2al2d View Post
I ran the 7k diff oil because when disassembling the rear diff I found that the initial viscosity was very thick and comparable to 7k or even thicker. I have since went down to 2k to try it out. Haven't had time to go to the track yet tho. I also took out rebound in the shocks.

I'll take all your words of wisdom and sort all this out the next time I get on the track. Hopefully it's before race day.
There's a lot of stuff you can do off the track. Diff oil should be thin enough that once you get it in the car and try to spin one wheel, the other wheel should spin the other way, not have the diff spin the motor. If you spin the motor, your diff oil is way too thick. This is what is going to happen on the track, instead of the diff allowing each wheel to find its own speed, it locks and you lose the rear end.

Next is the droop/roll. If the car doesn't have enough droop, the inner wheel will come off the ground and all your power will be wasted spinning that wheel in the air. I assume most people try to correct this by incorrectly going to thicker oils. This is wrong at this point. Make sure you don't have wheels off the ground first, and then decide if you need a thicker oil.

After setting droop, you need to make sure you have enough roll that weight is actually transferred to the wheel that can use power (outside). You don't need too much roll, but you need more than you have in the front, because the rear rolls more. This is where you need to look at your roll centres and decide if you need to adjust pillow block height and/or camber links.

And so on.

There's a very good thread floating about mostly written by Fred Swain. The main message is stop trying to copy setups. Have a read:

Tune With Camber Links
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:07 AM   #6297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
You're welcome.
Since you're new. I have a few questions for you.

Have you balanced your chassis left and right? That is, electronics and battery?
- You can do this with chassis setup pins.

Have you built your shocks the same length? Same rebound?
- I personally don't run rebound my shocks. I drill a small hole in the shock cap.

Have you built your chassis so that it is tweak free?
- Loosened the top deck, bulkhead, shock tower, motor mount screws and re-tighten them on the flat surface?

Have you set your droop the same height LEFT and RIGHT?
- Front and Rear will be different. 5 mm rear and 6 mm front using ride height gauge under outer pin on suspension arm.

Have you adjusted the spring pre-load collars the same distance left and right?
- Front and Rear will be different distances. Also adjust for desired ride height. Try to make them the same after ride height has been set.

Have you adjusted the spring pre-load collars to accommodate for any suspension tweak? You can check this with a 1.5 mm hex wrench. Have your car ''race ready'' on a flat level surface. There are two little holes drilled front and rear on lower chassis. Place the hex wrench in front of or behind this hole. Then lift up the chassis until the wheels lift off the ground. Now, keep an eye on which wheel front wheel lifts off first. The wheel that lifts off first is the light side.

I'm a little busy at the moment to go any further.

Maybe some guys can help with describing what to do next.
I sometimes (always when installing new springs) take the springs (front/front, rear/rear) and stack them and press them against each other to check whether they compress an equal amount.

Concerning the test where you sit your race-ready chassis on the setup board and lift one end up to see whether both wheels lift/touch the board at the same time, I always do this with setup wheels on the car. Actually, I also adjust ride height with the setup wheels on, so no imperfections from the wheels influence the adjustment. When everything is perfect, I put the (real) wheels on and set the ride height and check again.

If it is not perfect, I know it is the wheels, and depending on the scope of the imperfection, I can decide to re-adjust or ignore.

Concerning testing side balance, I use two of the thinnest screw drivers (or other similar) and use the two indents under each shock tower to test. I place the tip of each screwdriver under each indent and lift the chassis from the setup board. I find the balancing spikes (Hudy) to bind a little in the dedicated holes in the chassis plate.

If I really want to fine tune the side balance, I use some fine thread and lift the car up in the mentioned indents in the shock towers. This will show even the smallest imperfection.

I, of course, assume, that the indents in the shock towers are in the dead middle of the car.

I previously had a digital scaling weight set, but that thing drove me crazy
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Last edited by Salkin; 11-10-2015 at 12:18 AM.
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:22 AM   #6298
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
There's a lot of stuff you can do off the track. Diff oil should be thin enough that once you get it in the car and try to spin one wheel, the other wheel should spin the other way, not have the diff spin the motor. If you spin the motor, your diff oil is way too thick. This is what is going to happen on the track, instead of the diff allowing each wheel to find its own speed, it locks and you lose the rear end.

Next is the droop/roll. If the car doesn't have enough droop, the inner wheel will come off the ground and all your power will be wasted spinning that wheel in the air. I assume most people try to correct this by incorrectly going to thicker oils. This is wrong at this point. Make sure you don't have wheels off the ground first, and then decide if you need a thicker oil.

After setting droop, you need to make sure you have enough roll that weight is actually transferred to the wheel that can use power (outside). You don't need too much roll, but you need more than you have in the front, because the rear rolls more. This is where you need to look at your roll centres and decide if you need to adjust pillow block height and/or camber links.

And so on.

There's a very good thread floating about mostly written by Fred Swain. The main message is stop trying to copy setups. Have a read:

Tune With Camber Links
Wise words. Find your own setup. Start with base setup and change things around (one at a time) in order to solve issues. That is the only way to learn. Notice what changes do and if possible jot notes at track or soon after a session when you return home. Good luck.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:36 PM   #6299
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Thank for the advice!! I really need to get a hudy or integy setup station. My birthday is coming up and i'm hoping for some new toys hahha

Quote:
Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
I sometimes (always when installing new springs) take the springs (front/front, rear/rear) and stack them and press them against each other to check whether they compress an equal amount.

Concerning the test where you sit your race-ready chassis on the setup board and lift one end up to see whether both wheels lift/touch the board at the same time, I always do this with setup wheels on the car. Actually, I also adjust ride height with the setup wheels on, so no imperfections from the wheels influence the adjustment. When everything is perfect, I put the (real) wheels on and set the ride height and check again.

If it is not perfect, I know it is the wheels, and depending on the scope of the imperfection, I can decide to re-adjust or ignore.

Concerning testing side balance, I use two of the thinnest screw drivers (or other similar) and use the two indents under each shock tower to test. I place the tip of each screwdriver under each indent and lift the chassis from the setup board. I find the balancing spikes (Hudy) to bind a little in the dedicated holes in the chassis plate.

If I really want to fine tune the side balance, I use some fine thread and lift the car up in the mentioned indents in the shock towers. This will show even the smallest imperfection.

I, of course, assume, that the indents in the shock towers are in the dead middle of the car.

I previously had a digital scaling weight set, but that thing drove me crazy
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:38 PM   #6300
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Thanks Buzz777, yeah i think I did too much at one given time. I changed too many things before seeing what it actually did to my car at the track. I'll scale back and return everything back to the basics and go from there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by buzz777 View Post
Wise words. Find your own setup. Start with base setup and change things around (one at a time) in order to solve issues. That is the only way to learn. Notice what changes do and if possible jot notes at track or soon after a session when you return home. Good luck.
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