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Old 10-02-2015, 03:41 AM   #6166
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Originally Posted by Jerem View Post
I know it's 40mm on the 2013.
My caliper says it's still 40mm on the 2014.

Christian
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Old 10-02-2015, 06:29 AM   #6167
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My caliper says it's still 40mm on the 2014.

Christian
Thanks Christian ;-)
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:21 AM   #6168
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Hey everyone,
did someone of you test a one way in the front instead of spool in the last time?
Im thinking of getting one for 17,5T blinky class.
What do you think?

Greetz xyN
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:55 PM   #6169
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Hey everyone,
did someone of you test a one way in the front instead of spool in the last time?
Im thinking of getting one for 17,5T blinky class.
What do you think?

Greetz xyN
I haven't used one in this car but just from experience I would only use one on a large track with large sweeping turns.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:39 PM   #6170
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What's the difference between the db7 and db7 rs? Is it worth just buying the db7?

Are there any mandatory upgrades necessary?

Thx
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:11 PM   #6171
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Edward2003-

This is also because you are using too thin of an oil. Go up much higher in viscosity and use less oil. The operating temperature of the diff is much higher than bench testing so you will have to do a little trial and error on the feel that you are pursuing. A warm diff will be a more accurate indicator of diff action. Generally people prefer 5k-7k these days.
I did quite a bit of testing and found 10K work out really nice for 13.5 boosted on a tight and technical track layout.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:22 PM   #6172
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Here is the setup I ended up testing out with great success. The setup isn't mine. Keep note of the ball studs which are short necks.

Remember this is for 13.5 boosted on a tight technical track layout with medium grip.

Sorex 28's, Sweep blue inserts, and SAI 5 spoke wheels. <--- These wheels added some flex, dish were to stiff.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_Y...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:29 PM   #6173
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The first photos of Yokomo's new 4wd offroad buggy, the YZ-4, have reached the internet. They are touting a revolutionary drive train. I'm still unsure if any of this has any bearing on the next few BD's, whatever never or letters are associated with them.
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Old 10-05-2015, 03:21 AM   #6174
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
What's the difference between the db7 and db7 rs? Is it worth just buying the db7?

Are there any mandatory upgrades necessary?

Thx
Sorry, but it's BD7, not DB 7 (that's an Aston Martin)

The RS versions are lower level (in pricing) and usually have plastic in many places where a full BD7 has carbon or aluminium. The first RS really had lots of plastic, and Yokomo offered IIRC 3 different upgrade packages. The newer versions, RS2 and RS3 have carbon chassis and damper mounts, etc. - I don't see that much plastic left in them... lower bulkheads probably. But the price went up quite a bit as well.

Oh and the RS3 comes with black anodized aluminium and 2014 parts, where the RS2 comes with blue parts and should be 2013 parts IIRC.

So unless we're talking about the original RS, I can't think of any mandatory upgrades - of course one can even upgrade the full BD7 kits further, but I wouldn't call that mandatory (even though most people seem to change damper bladders and o-rings for example).
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:29 AM   #6175
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What's the difference between the db7 and db7 rs? Is it worth just buying the db7?

Are there any mandatory upgrades necessary?

Thx
Upgrades you'll need is an aluminium spool. Every BD7 spool will fit. The standard plastic spool with plastic outdrives will break fairly quick.

Another thing I would personally do is change the diff outdrives to ones that use blades. The RS version has steel on steel contact. So buy some outdrives from the normal BD7 version and some blades and you are fine.

The RS is more than excellent. I have build quite a few and RS2 version as well. Yokomo quality and the build is excellent. Even the plastic dampers are butter smooth!

Last edited by Govert; 10-06-2015 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:29 AM   #6176
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Hi,

Here my "Lipo Stopper" for BD7, BD7 Rs & BD7 2014 !

http://shpws.me/Kj0v



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Old 10-05-2015, 07:40 AM   #6177
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Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
Sorry, but it's BD7, not DB 7 (that's an Aston Martin)

The RS versions are lower level (in pricing) and usually have plastic in many places where a full BD7 has carbon or aluminium. The first RS really had lots of plastic, and Yokomo offered IIRC 3 different upgrade packages. The newer versions, RS2 and RS3 have carbon chassis and damper mounts, etc. - I don't see that much plastic left in them... lower bulkheads probably. But the price went up quite a bit as well.

Oh and the RS3 comes with black anodized aluminium and 2014 parts, where the RS2 comes with blue parts and should be 2013 parts IIRC.

So unless we're talking about the original RS, I can't think of any mandatory upgrades - of course one can even upgrade the full BD7 kits further, but I wouldn't call that mandatory (even though most people seem to change damper bladders and o-rings for example).

Got it! Thanks. So no upgrades needed on the bd7 and rs3 version! Cool
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:02 AM   #6178
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Need a little help on front dcj's ......... Ive got 40mm ones in mine but I need 42mm lengths.

Working on a hybrid using my '14 and need a little extra in the outdrives. Anyone know of another kit that would work or if Yokomo has an inner shaft to the cup I could use?


Thanks
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:18 PM   #6179
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Originally Posted by Robbob View Post
Need a little help on front dcj's ......... Ive got 40mm ones in mine but I need 42mm lengths.

Working on a hybrid using my '14 and need a little extra in the outdrives. Anyone know of another kit that would work or if Yokomo has an inner shaft to the cup I could use?


Thanks
Tamiya axles fit the knuckles. Not sure what length bones they come in.
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:37 PM   #6180
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Tamiya axles fit the knuckles. Not sure what length bones they come in.
That helps too - thanks
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